Sick puffer in a newer tank

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Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.

1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.

2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.

3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)

4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.

5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.

We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.

While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.

Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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saffier
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Sick puffer in a newer tank

Post by saffier »

I lost my favorite puffer a couple of days ago. He didn't have an appetite for a day before he passed. I changed the water and cleaned the tank, and even took my surviving one to my fish store where they treated him with meds and tested my water. They said that since my tank is newer (two months) that it is still cycling and my puffer died of shock. He said my other should survive if he can make it through the final Nitrate cycle which should end in about a week.

My concern is that my puffer is surviving so far, but he is hiding behind the filter in a "sleep state" most of the time for the past four days. I'm worried about him, is there anything else I should be doing aside from watching overfeeding him and keeping the light off?
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messy_da_legend
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Post by messy_da_legend »

What were the actual test results?

When you say cleaned the tank, do you mean everything out and washed under tapwater? How do you clean the filter, and do you use dechlorinator after water changes?

Sorry for all the questions and for the loss of your puff
Tom

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saffier
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Post by saffier »

I have to admit I'm new to this, but I am trying to learn as quickly as I can- I don't want to lose another one.

I changed the water, and scrubbed the tank- but did not use any chemicals (I didn't know which ones are safe?)

The nitrate was extremely high, but all of the others looked within normal range, also I the saline level was a little low.
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messy_da_legend
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Post by messy_da_legend »

Ok, when you change the water, you should be using a dechlorinator, which removes chlorines and chloramines from your tapwater.

With the filter, the media can be washed in old tank water to prevent killing your good nitrifying bacteria which convert fish waste (ammonia) to nitrite and then nitrate. Your water changes should then remove this nitrate.
Tom

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saffier
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Post by saffier »

Thank you very much, this helps a lot- I appreciate it.
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Post by Gomez »

I don't use dechlorinator. I think its an unnecessary expense. instead I will let my water sit out in buckets for at-least a day before I do my water changes. with This Wait the chlorine is supposed to evaporate.

To eliminate excessive nitrates do frequent water changes.

It is recommended to change 50% once a week.
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messy_da_legend
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Post by messy_da_legend »

more and more water companies now are adding chloramine instead of chlorine to tapwater which doesn't gass off like chlorine, therefore dechlorinator is needed.
Tom

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Post by Pufferpunk »

all of the others looked within normal range

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There is no "normal range" for ammonia & nitrates.  They must be 0 at all times.  What's your pH?  What kind of puffer, in what sized tank?

Read the articles on New Tank Syndrome & Fishless Cycling, in our Library.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

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Post by Apocalyptictoast »

Yeah. My water company sent out a note saying that the're switching water sources and using chloramines. I use a python most of the time anyways, so I use Prime.
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Post by Boxermom »

Any idea what kind of puffer it is? And what size tank is he in, and does he have any tankmates?
Tina

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saffier
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Post by saffier »

He is a figure 8 in a 15 gallon tank with no other fish. He seems to be doing much better today, swimming around the tank. I'm wondering if I need more places for him to hide, and that's why he goes behind the filter and "sleeps" all the time.

Also, I do use decholorinator- that much I knew! :)
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saffier
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Post by saffier »

Also, he had a little bit of a cloudy sheen to him when I took him in, but that seems to have cleared up now with the meds. They (fish place) said that it wasn't Ich, but whatever it was is gone now.
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Post by Boxermom »

Does the tank have a lot of decor? Does it have a background? These things tend to help make them feel more secure and they get more outgoing when they have plenty of places to explore.

I would definitely encourage you to get good liquid test kits yourself so you can monitor the water parameters and know what's going on. I recommend Aquarium Pharmaceuticals' Master Freshwater Test Kit, it has all of the basics you'll need. You'll also need marine salt, as they are low end brackish fish, and a hydrometer or refractometer to measure the salinity. You mentioned that the saline tested low, not sure what you meant by that exactly.
Tina

Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
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Post by Myaj »

Definately keep doing water changes. Puffers don't handle high nitrates well at all and the only way to remove nitrates is with water changes.
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saffier
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Post by saffier »

Ok, thank you. I will get a water kit for myself (it will certainly save on gas taking a sample in every week!). Also, I do use marine salt but I was told to put a little more in (about a 3/4 cup for a 15 gallon tank.)

This forum is great. Thank you for all the help.
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