Porcupine Puffer greyish white skin and a cloudy eye
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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SaltwaterPufferGirl
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:39 am
- My Puffers: 2 dogface puffers, 1 porcupine puffer
- Location: Henryville, IN. EST time zone
Porcupine Puffer greyish white skin and a cloudy eye
Smiles are free... so give them away...
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lisalisa
I'm really sorry to hear that.
How big was he? I ask because the 'bent' position you talked about makes me think he was just too big for the 20.
In the future, I suggest not adding pH buffers to your tank. They will boost pH too quickly, and do not address the reason for pH drop, not to mention the rise is temporary.
What were the readings for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate?
I might suggest a necropsy to see if worms were indeed a factor here, although I'm not convinced of that either.
How big was he? I ask because the 'bent' position you talked about makes me think he was just too big for the 20.
In the future, I suggest not adding pH buffers to your tank. They will boost pH too quickly, and do not address the reason for pH drop, not to mention the rise is temporary.
What were the readings for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate?
I might suggest a necropsy to see if worms were indeed a factor here, although I'm not convinced of that either.
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SaltwaterPufferGirl
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:39 am
- My Puffers: 2 dogface puffers, 1 porcupine puffer
- Location: Henryville, IN. EST time zone
he was only 3 inches long at the most. my ammonia was just the only thing hardly giving a reading don't know the exact level but the lowest one on the liquid test. Everything else was ok except for the pH. When I was adding the pH kent marine buffer powder I was mixing it in slowly so he could adjust.
Smiles are free... so give them away...
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Jager
sorry those two fish were way to much for a 20 gallon tank. that bent position you are talking about is the puffer trying to fit in the tank, and turn. that is a bad thing.
sry that it didnt work out, but that trigger is way too big for the 20 even in q/t you can try it by itself, but its really dicey.
sry that it didnt work out, but that trigger is way too big for the 20 even in q/t you can try it by itself, but its really dicey.
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SaltwaterPufferGirl
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:39 am
- My Puffers: 2 dogface puffers, 1 porcupine puffer
- Location: Henryville, IN. EST time zone
I though they would be ok in the tank for 3 weeks, the trigger is only about 2 inches long and the puffer 3 inches at the most. it isn't like both fish are 10 inches long each then I could see the reason for the bent position in the puffers back, But the puffer was swimming around fine and eating for a day or two looked very happy
Smiles are free... so give them away...
- Phaedrus
- Former Staff Member
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- Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 8:34 pm
- Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
- Contact:
Perhaps the trigger attacked the puffer. Even though they are small, that's a pretty small tank to keep them in for any length or time. There may have been agression that you didn't notice. Fish behave quite a bit differently when they have someone watching them.
He could have also been sickly to begin with...
He could have also been sickly to begin with...
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onebadpuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:34 am
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): United States
- Location: Texas
- Contact:
Sorry you lost the little guy. It sounded like he was just sick. I had a new fish die on me several months back with the same symptoms while it was in QT. You described it down to a t, but alas, I do not know what he/she had. I would keep an eye on the trigger for any signs of illness. Whatever my puff had, it took him very quick.
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SaltwaterPufferGirl
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:39 am
- My Puffers: 2 dogface puffers, 1 porcupine puffer
- Location: Henryville, IN. EST time zone
well it did suck that I lost the little guy, but the trigger is very active and loves to eat. The new problem is that the trigger fish started out with a white raised bump on its side about the size of the end of a ball point pin, I have been treating him with copper for the past 3 days, but the spot is still on him and he has started to show about 6 more raised spots on him, I don't think it looks like ick, much bigger than any ick spots I have ever seen. Yesterday I did a FW dip on him for 5 minutes and they stayed on, while my fish was laying on his side I touched the biggest spot with my finger and tried to pick it off it felt like hard rubber and wouldn't come off but I didn't try very hard to get it off in frear that I might do more damage than good. Any ideas on what this is on my fish?
Smiles are free... so give them away...
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onebadpuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:34 am
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): United States
- Location: Texas
- Contact:
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SaltwaterPufferGirl
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:39 am
- My Puffers: 2 dogface puffers, 1 porcupine puffer
- Location: Henryville, IN. EST time zone
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onebadpuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:34 am
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): United States
- Location: Texas
- Contact:
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SaltwaterPufferGirl
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:39 am
- My Puffers: 2 dogface puffers, 1 porcupine puffer
- Location: Henryville, IN. EST time zone
I will try to get my digital camera to work today and get him to come out and be still enought that I can take a good picture. It does look like from last night that the newest ones have stopped growing, which I hope is a good sign, and so has the 1st spot that I saw.
Smiles are free... so give them away...
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onebadpuffer
- Former Staff Member
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- Gender: Male
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Glad to hear it isn't getting any worse and may in fact be getting better. It wouldn't hurt to put a little Melafix in there while he is healing. That pic would still be very helpful if you can get it. Also, on a side note, having treated with copper, I would be hesitant to put another puff back in that tank.
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SaltwaterPufferGirl
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:39 am
- My Puffers: 2 dogface puffers, 1 porcupine puffer
- Location: Henryville, IN. EST time zone
Still working on getting that picture. I have actually treated my dog face puff with copper in the past to get rid of a ick outbreak due to stress from a injury along with a lowered SG at the same time and he did and is still doing great, fat and happy as puffers go. Do you know if it woul be possible to have 2 dogface puffers in a 220 gallon tank, my puff is about 5 inches now.
Smiles are free... so give them away...
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onebadpuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:34 am
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): United States
- Location: Texas
- Contact:
You should have enough room with the three fish in there. I don't see why you can't have 2 dogfaces. What else would you have besides the 2 puffs and the trigger? I unknowingly treated a puff with a copper-based med once as well, but it is not recommended if you have an alternate treatment method. Copper is poisonous to puffers. RTR or someone with more knowledge on this matter and how is harms puffers can give you a more accurate and detailed response than I can regarding that subject.

