When I first got Birdy, I neglected the nitrate level for quite a while and he started to show the same symptoms. I was pretty sure he was blind that time. But thank goodness he recovered.. just keep up the wc to ensure pristine conditions. U will be surprise how sensitive these fishes are. It took me abt a week to get him to start eating small pieces of prawn again..
Btw what's the tank size? Sorry if I missed it. I used to have 1 of them that grew to 6in in brackish.
my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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scpion
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 672
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 10:57 am
- My Puffers: 23in Mbu, donated to SEA Aquarium
4in Fahaka 150g - Location (country): singapore
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
I am not a Troll, I am just pissed..!
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Cheeto
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:08 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 2 Ceylon puffers about 1" long
- Location (country): canada
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
i have 2 ceylon in seperate 20gallon tanks and have a 90 gallon when they are ready to upgrade and will get bigger when they are full grown. Cheeto is looking way better still wont eat but he now responds to my hand and is more active. i used some aquarium salt as per http://puffernet.tripod.com/nitrite-p.html and he seems way better his breathing is not as laboured and like i said seems to be doing awesome please let me know if u think i should stop this treatment or continue. LFS had no idea what was wrong with him in the first place and i have just been going off of what i have read online. thank you guys so much for all the help and plz let me know of anything else i should be doing.
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sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1894
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
I don't recommend using aquarium salt, since it has no guaranteed analysis. I think your best option here is to keep up with the massive daily water changes.
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
Puffernet is the #1 worse pufferinfo site on the net!
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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Cheeto
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:08 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 2 Ceylon puffers about 1" long
- Location (country): canada
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
okay so stop salt treatment check i added some filter media from a friends tank he has had for about 4 years so hope that helps and OMG HE ATE!!! he ate a bunch of bloodworms and little piggy has a puffy pearl tummy : ) his colors are way brighter than they were yesterday
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bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
Glad he is eating again. Keep up the waterchanges
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
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Cheeto
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:08 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 2 Ceylon puffers about 1" long
- Location (country): canada
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
okay so Cheeto looks great eating very well and been testing my water befor every waterchange. The past 2 days Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0 but still doing 10-20% water change once a day.
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Nuclear_Glitter
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 971
- Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 1:03 am
- Gender: Female
- Location (country): North Carolina, USA
- Location: North Carolina, USA
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
Wouldn't it be better to just put them into the 90 gallon? Keeping them separate their whole lives isn't a good idea if you plan to one day put them together. Also, the 90 gallon would be way better because it would keep the pollution down even more. You'd just need to move everything from your 20 gals over to your 90 gallon, and you wouldn't lose the bacteria you currently have.Cheeto wrote:i have 2 ceylon in seperate 20gallon tanks and have a 90 gallon when they are ready to upgrade and will get bigger when they are full grown.
"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -- Henry Ford
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
I agree.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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Cheeto
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:08 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 2 Ceylon puffers about 1" long
- Location (country): canada
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
I would love to put them in the 90 but as it stands now we are moving in a few months and i also need to redo the silicone. I got the tank and stand free off of Kijiji and still need to buy a filter system for it. they are still under 1" long and are both in the same 20 gallon no problems with them attacking eachother or any signs of aggression. I do however want to know when i should start converting to brackish i know they are brackish puffers and i feel wrong keeping them in 100% fresh water.
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Nuclear_Glitter
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 971
- Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 1:03 am
- Gender: Female
- Location (country): North Carolina, USA
- Location: North Carolina, USA
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
Start raising your salinity by .02 a week.
"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -- Henry Ford