my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
Cheeto
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:08 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 2 Ceylon puffers about 1" long
- Location (country): canada
my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
okay so i have had my ceylon puffer for 3 weeks now and the past couple days he seems to be acting strange he will look at his food and when he goes to eat it he misses i know hes not blind cause he swims around fine. he also spends alot of time on the bottom resting. i dont wanna loose my buddy
Still in fresh water
PH 8.0
Ammonia 0.1
nitrite 0.3
nitrate 5
2 small ceylon puffers 1" long
feed them frozen bloodworms 1-2 times a day they havnt touched snails or anything else tried snails once and they had no idea what to do with it
tank was cycled for 3 week
I have been doing 5-10% water changes once a week
i use seachem prime and stability for water changes
Still in fresh water
PH 8.0
Ammonia 0.1
nitrite 0.3
nitrate 5
2 small ceylon puffers 1" long
feed them frozen bloodworms 1-2 times a day they havnt touched snails or anything else tried snails once and they had no idea what to do with it
tank was cycled for 3 week
I have been doing 5-10% water changes once a week
i use seachem prime and stability for water changes
- sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1894
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
Nitrite poisoning.
Do 50% water changes, at least daily, until your
numbers are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate <20, and they s stay that way.
Your regular water change
schedule needs to be 50% weekly
Do 50% water changes, at least daily, until your
numbers are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate <20, and they s stay that way.
Your regular water change
schedule needs to be 50% weekly

- sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1894
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
![welcome [welcome]](./images/smilies/welcome.gif)
You can do larger than 50%, but start that immediately. These are sensitive fish, and won't last long in an uncycled tank without daily water changes.

- xrayjeeper83
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 4167
- Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 9:31 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Fahaka named Bloat
Abei named Huey
GSP named Bacon - Location (country): USA
- Location: Orange Park, FL
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
^^^^ what she said
RTR wrote:Fahakas do not have tank mates, they may have swimming food reserves.
-
Cheeto
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:08 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 2 Ceylon puffers about 1" long
- Location (country): canada
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
okay so just finished a 60%ish waterchange ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 nitrate 0. how long should i keep the 50% daily water canges going for sorry i feel like a bad pet owner for letting this happen to my buddy and not knowing how to deal with it
- xrayjeeper83
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 4167
- Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 9:31 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Fahaka named Bloat
Abei named Huey
GSP named Bacon - Location (country): USA
- Location: Orange Park, FL
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
until you have ammonia 0 nitirite 0 and trate <20 before the water change, and stable like that for a few days
RTR wrote:Fahakas do not have tank mates, they may have swimming food reserves.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
Exactly how was the tank cycled?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
Cheeto
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:08 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 2 Ceylon puffers about 1" long
- Location (country): canada
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
i cycled it by following this guide http://www.aquariumadvice.com/articles/ ... Page1.html
-
Cheeto
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:08 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 2 Ceylon puffers about 1" long
- Location (country): canada
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
okay so now he doesnt react to me at all and is bumping into stuff so im pretty sure he is blind now. will he regain his vision if/when he recovers?
- xrayjeeper83
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 4167
- Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 9:31 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Fahaka named Bloat
Abei named Huey
GSP named Bacon - Location (country): USA
- Location: Orange Park, FL
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
only time will tell
RTR wrote:Fahakas do not have tank mates, they may have swimming food reserves.
- sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1894
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
It's not really a lack of vision, they can feel so crummy, and are weak, that they just don't respond normally, they seem to lose awareness of their environment.
Keep doing water changes, clean water is vital to their health,, waste products can build up quickly. Don't wait to register an ammonia or nitrate reading, just keep his water fresh, do it twice daily if you can. Double dose the Prime, amount for the entire tank volume every 24 hours, and dose each new exchange water batch.
Keep doing water changes, clean water is vital to their health,, waste products can build up quickly. Don't wait to register an ammonia or nitrate reading, just keep his water fresh, do it twice daily if you can. Double dose the Prime, amount for the entire tank volume every 24 hours, and dose each new exchange water batch.

- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
Classic signs of nitrite poisoning. If that tank was cycled correctly, it would show 0 ammonia/nitrite & some nitrate.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
Cheeto
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:08 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 2 Ceylon puffers about 1" long
- Location (country): canada
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
he is still swimmin around doing okay he at a couple worms today but still wont eat a whole lot. would it be a good idea to go to the LFS and buy some items from there tanks i know they sell them but i was wondering if it will help with the lac of bactiria?
- sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1894
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
If you could get some used filter media, that would help, but be careful, it has to be from a disease free source.
You could pick up a bottle of safestart, but make sure your pH is not below 6.5, and your bacteria won't fair well in really low KH, and for this puffer species, you want to aim for a KH of 10°. Aragonite sand and the marine salt you'll need to use to start raising his salinity will help stabilize that.
It would help to know the KH.
However, don't let the store talk you into buying a buying a buffer. They are expensive and dangerous. There are very safe and affordable ways to increase the KH.
You could pick up a bottle of safestart, but make sure your pH is not below 6.5, and your bacteria won't fair well in really low KH, and for this puffer species, you want to aim for a KH of 10°. Aragonite sand and the marine salt you'll need to use to start raising his salinity will help stabilize that.
It would help to know the KH.
However, don't let the store talk you into buying a buying a buffer. They are expensive and dangerous. There are very safe and affordable ways to increase the KH.

- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: my ceylon puffer wont eat : (
Also, don't let the store convince you to buy ANY OTHER BACTERIA PRODUCT!!!
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"