Maracyn question (Blue Green Algea)
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
yunachin
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Troender
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- Location: Askim, Norway
Re: Maracyn question
I'm not sure increased circulation will help. I have BGA growing on the filter sponge in my internal filter. 
BTW, there's plenty of circulation in 2 of the 4 infested tanks I have.
BTW, there's plenty of circulation in 2 of the 4 infested tanks I have.Inger Anne
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Just think how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of them are even stupider! -George Carlin
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Just think how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of them are even stupider! -George Carlin
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edmlfc1
- Mbu Puffer
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125G:Fahaka (Annabelle) - Location (country): U.S.A.
- Location: Texas
Re: Maracyn question (blue green algea) update
Ok I got all of the lights changed. Doing a little experiemnt on the lights, if it works I'll tell ya'll what it is.
Anyway for the update:
The spots of blue green algea that are on the sand bed, the spots that came back the next day, are not spreading!
And they look like they might be turning a brown color. Hopefully they are dying off. I still don't see anything on the wood or the glass. And the algea that I didn't get off the plants are turning brown. I am taking this as good news! It seems like (keeping fingers crossed) the new lights and the increased circulation are working. Even my lilly plant that was covered in BGA is starting to blossom. I'll do another water change tomorrow and try to get most of the dead stuff off the plants and remove what's left on the sand. I'll post another update next week.
Anyway for the update:
The spots of blue green algea that are on the sand bed, the spots that came back the next day, are not spreading!
And they look like they might be turning a brown color. Hopefully they are dying off. I still don't see anything on the wood or the glass. And the algea that I didn't get off the plants are turning brown. I am taking this as good news! It seems like (keeping fingers crossed) the new lights and the increased circulation are working. Even my lilly plant that was covered in BGA is starting to blossom. I'll do another water change tomorrow and try to get most of the dead stuff off the plants and remove what's left on the sand. I'll post another update next week. Need to know what kind of puffer you have? Click on Puffer ID.....Puffer ID: ug.php/v/PufferPedia/
What to feed your puffer? Click on Feeding......
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What to feed your puffer? Click on Feeding......
Feeding: library/feeding/feeding-your-puffers/
Have a GSP, need more information......Click on GSP Article.....
GSP Article: library/puffers-in-focus/an-introductio ... d-puffers/
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edmlfc1
- Mbu Puffer
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125G:Fahaka (Annabelle) - Location (country): U.S.A.
- Location: Texas
Re: Maracyn question
How long are the tanks? Mine is a 6' tank, and the increased circulation seems to be helping. I didn't have anything on the ends, my two filters and my one power head was all towards the middle. Now I have one power head on each side and one in the middle, I also added an extra filter, only because the tank is so long. Now I have a filter, powerhead, filter, powerhead, filter, powerhead. This cover's all 6' of the tank. No more dead spots.Troender wrote:I'm not sure increased circulation will help. I have BGA growing on the filter sponge in my internal filter.
My 90 gallon (which dosen't have this problem) is only 4'. I have one power head to the left and my spray bar (rena xp3) in the middle. But that tank get's plenty of circulation. You can see all the plants moving. I might go ahead and add another power head on the other side of the rena.
Need to know what kind of puffer you have? Click on Puffer ID.....Puffer ID: ug.php/v/PufferPedia/
What to feed your puffer? Click on Feeding......
Feeding: library/feeding/feeding-your-puffers/
Have a GSP, need more information......Click on GSP Article.....
GSP Article: library/puffers-in-focus/an-introductio ... d-puffers/
What to feed your puffer? Click on Feeding......
Feeding: library/feeding/feeding-your-puffers/
Have a GSP, need more information......Click on GSP Article.....
GSP Article: library/puffers-in-focus/an-introductio ... d-puffers/
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Troender
- Former Staff Member
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- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: 1x GSP (Bolla), 1x m. something. Bought as a leiurus, maybe a turgidus (Tiger), 1x c. irrubesco (Tott(a) aka Houdini) 1x c. salivator (Jack the Ripper), 1x m. cochinchinensis (Hufflepuff - R.I.P.), 2x c. lorteti (Tommy and Tigern = Calvin and Hubbes), 1x m. suvatti (Koseklumpen), 1x m. palembangensis (Dragonfly), 2x t. biocellatus (Koken and Fiken).
- Location: Askim, Norway
Re: Maracyn question
My tanks are small. 3 of them are 22 G, and one is 30 G. That's why there's only internal filters in some of them. I haven't seen any change in the tank where I used fertilizer yet, but I started with a really low dosage.
If you want to get rid of a certain small spot of BGA, it's pretty easy. Take some salt in your hand, and spread it on top of the BGA. It will be dead in hours. But the difficult part is to avoid it coming back.
If you want to get rid of a certain small spot of BGA, it's pretty easy. Take some salt in your hand, and spread it on top of the BGA. It will be dead in hours. But the difficult part is to avoid it coming back.
Inger Anne
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Just think how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of them are even stupider! -George Carlin
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Just think how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of them are even stupider! -George Carlin
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edmlfc1
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 2011
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2007 5:03 pm
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125G:Fahaka (Annabelle) - Location (country): U.S.A.
- Location: Texas
Re: Maracyn question
Thanks for the tip.Troender wrote:My tanks are small. 3 of them are 22 G, and one is 30 G. That's why there's only internal filters in some of them. I haven't seen any change in the tank where I used fertilizer yet, but I started with a really low dosage.
If you want to get rid of a certain small spot of BGA, it's pretty easy. Take some salt in your hand, and spread it on top of the BGA. It will be dead in hours. But the difficult part is to avoid it coming back.
Need to know what kind of puffer you have? Click on Puffer ID.....Puffer ID: ug.php/v/PufferPedia/
What to feed your puffer? Click on Feeding......
Feeding: library/feeding/feeding-your-puffers/
Have a GSP, need more information......Click on GSP Article.....
GSP Article: library/puffers-in-focus/an-introductio ... d-puffers/
What to feed your puffer? Click on Feeding......
Feeding: library/feeding/feeding-your-puffers/
Have a GSP, need more information......Click on GSP Article.....
GSP Article: library/puffers-in-focus/an-introductio ... d-puffers/
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Iliveinazoo
- Fahaka Puffer
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Re: Maracyn question
are you adding CO2 or liquid carbon as well to make sure that the plants are using the light to the best of it's ability and so suck up the extra NPK?Troender wrote:My tanks are small. 3 of them are 22 G, and one is 30 G. That's why there's only internal filters in some of them. I haven't seen any change in the tank where I used fertilizer yet, but I started with a really low dosage.
If you want to get rid of a certain small spot of BGA, it's pretty easy. Take some salt in your hand, and spread it on top of the BGA. It will be dead in hours. But the difficult part is to avoid it coming back.
-
Troender
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:04 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: 1x GSP (Bolla), 1x m. something. Bought as a leiurus, maybe a turgidus (Tiger), 1x c. irrubesco (Tott(a) aka Houdini) 1x c. salivator (Jack the Ripper), 1x m. cochinchinensis (Hufflepuff - R.I.P.), 2x c. lorteti (Tommy and Tigern = Calvin and Hubbes), 1x m. suvatti (Koseklumpen), 1x m. palembangensis (Dragonfly), 2x t. biocellatus (Koken and Fiken).
- Location: Askim, Norway
Re: Maracyn question
I'm not adding it for the plants, but to change the ratio between phosphate and nitrates (it's nitrates in the fertilizer). In theory this should work (see the link I've posted earlier in this topic).Iliveinazoo wrote: are you adding CO2 or liquid carbon as well to make sure that the plants are using the light to the best of it's ability and so suck up the extra NPK?
Inger Anne
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Just think how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of them are even stupider! -George Carlin
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Just think how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of them are even stupider! -George Carlin
-
Pandora114
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- Contact:
Re: Maracyn question (Blue Green Algea)
I'm having some cyanno in my GSP tank. Luckily he's in high brackish now so I can use Red Slime remover for marine conditions according to my LFS owner (who really knows her stuff!)
I also had it in my DP tank. I did use a phosphate pad and it got rid of it pretty fast. I live in a high agriculture area so phosphates are way up there in my tap water.
Anyway I feel your pain. I've read on bcaquaria.com (i think) of a guy who fought Cyanno with mega doses of Flourish Excell. And I mean Megadoses. He bought like a huge jug of it each week and just dumped it by the cup full each day, and the cyanno went away. his plants went nuts too lol.
I also had it in my DP tank. I did use a phosphate pad and it got rid of it pretty fast. I live in a high agriculture area so phosphates are way up there in my tap water.
Anyway I feel your pain. I've read on bcaquaria.com (i think) of a guy who fought Cyanno with mega doses of Flourish Excell. And I mean Megadoses. He bought like a huge jug of it each week and just dumped it by the cup full each day, and the cyanno went away. his plants went nuts too lol.