Maracyn question (Blue Green Algea)

[edmlfc1]

Not really a sick puffer, at least I don't think so.......
My tank has that blue green black slime algea that stinks. I've been told it's a bacteria and to get rid of it I will need to treat with maracyn. Here's the tricky part, I've also been told that to keep it gone I would need to double dose. I'm worried about double dosing with Annabelle in the tank. If I do the double dose should I put her in a temp tank and treat her at a regular doseage? I'm going to order enough to do a double dose so that I can get rid of this stuff and I'm going to order dr. tim's to add the good bacteria in the tank after dosing. The tank she's in has two filters, I can move one with her to the temp tank. Just need to know: Should I keep her in or take her out?

[Myaj]

There's other options to try before you double dose the Maracyn. The antibiotic can kill your biofilter, so I've always used that as a last resort.

First option, manually siphon out and remove as much of the algae as you possibly can. Then do a total blackout for a week or two.

Second option, I don't remember the details, but you take some hydrogen peroxide in a turkey baster and squirt it directly on the algae. You'd have to research that one.

If you do do the medication, my biggest worry would be your biofilter, I think Annabelle would probably be okay, but it might be better to move her and one of the filters to a temp tank just in case the meds kill your existing biofilter.

[Corvus]

I would not fight cyanobacteria with antibiotics.

Cyanobacteria are always a sign of an unbalanced biology settling on surfaces usually settled by other bacteria. Better to treat the imbalance than just the symptom.

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm

[edmlfc1]

That article seems to be all about saltwater. The algea is in my freshwater tank.
amm. 0
nitrite 0
nitrate 0-5
ph 7.4
I added a powerhead over a month ago to get more circulation in the tank. I also done a 3 day total blackout and it came back by the end of the week.
What other options do I have? I don't want to tear the tank down and start over.

[edmlfc1]

There's other options to try before you double dose the Maracyn. The antibiotic can kill your biofilter, so I've always used that as a last resort.

First option, manually siphon out and remove as much of the algae as you possibly can. Then do a total blackout for a week or two.

Second option, I don't remember the details, but you take some hydrogen peroxide in a turkey baster and squirt it directly on the algae. You'd have to research that one.

If you do do the medication, my biggest worry would be your biofilter, I think Annabelle would probably be okay, but it might be better to move her and one of the filters to a temp tank just in case the meds kill your existing biofilter.

If I do a total blackout for two to three weeks do I fast Annabelle during that time?

[edmlfc1]

I was reading about low nitrates and how this stuff thrives on nitrate 5 and below. Should I let my nitrates build up? Will that kill it?

[Corvus]

Sorry, did not read that is was a freshwater tank, but except the statements about salinity and corals the article can also be valid for freshwater, too. In addition there's a FAQ about freshwater cyanobacteria: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwbgafaqs.htm

Cyanobacteria don't thrive on "nitrate 5 and below" alone, it's always about a biochemical imbalance. Consequently, raising nitrates will only work if there is some limitation for other life.

Does the tank get sunlinght? If so, I'd try to exclude that.

I'd also think about having some floating plants to give these bacteria some competetion, even duckweed can be useful here. More attractive floating plants would possibly be a better choice.

[edmlfc1]

There's a very small amount of duckweed in the tank, mostly val grass and some anubias. The tank gets no sunlight, there's no windows in the room. It's 6' long and there's three lights on each 3' section 6500K each @ 30 watts each.
Going to check out the link you posted.

Here's a few photo's that I took:

My sand (seachem black onyx with black sand mix):



The back where the heater is:



The driftwood (I took the driftwood a little over a week ago and scrubbed it, the algea is already coming back)

[Iliveinazoo]

you could try reducing the length of time that the lights are on for, alternatively get another fast growing plant. Do you dose CO2? Extra CO2 may help the plants out-compete the algae/cynobacteria.

I dose PMDD plus easycarbo, this has allowed me to leave my lights on longer than when i dosed nothing at all.

I agree with Corvus - when there is an imbalance between light/CO2 and nutrients then plants will always find it difficult to outcompete the algae. Better to treat the source of the problem, not the result of the problem.

[Troender]

It's the ratio between nitrates and phosphate that is the important thing when dealing with BGA. Take a look at this link.

I find puffer tanks vunerable to BGA. I think it maybe have to do with what I feed the puffers. I have BGA in 4 of my puffer tanks, and none of the other tanks I have. It's really annoying, for it doesn't look like anything works on it. A blackout will kill the BGA temporarly, but it's a big chance that it will come back. The only tank I've succeeded in getting rid of the BGA, the lights are broken, so it's been without light for a very long time, and now the lights will turn on only on occational days. Another thing that can affect the BGA is the age of the fluroecent tubes. Changing them can help.

[edmlfc1]

Ok here is what I have, this is the tank before it was set up:


If I change the eheim 2213 to another Rena xp3 (have spare in the cabinet) and add 2 maxi jet 1200, remove the bubble wands do you think that would help?

Sorry forgot to name the dot in the middle: It's a powerhead 802 (not sure of the brand it was given to me)

[edmlfc1]

I changed a few things on the tank. If circulation was the problem it shouldn't be a problem anymore. I'm going to search for my phosphate test and do that next. Here's what I have now from left to right:

Far left: maxijet 1200 powerhead
extra Rena xp3 inlet
extra rena xp3 outlet

center:
Powerhead 803
eheim 2213 outlet
heater
eheim 2213 inlet

Right to far right
rena xp3 outlet
rena xp3 inlet
maxijet 1200 powerhead

While moving things around one of the suction cups came loose. It took me a while to catch it. With all this on the tank the suction cup was zooming across the tank. It reminded me of the "catch a duck" at the local fair. Where they put the ducks in a circular tub with an island in the middle and they are going round and round. Now I know there's plenty of circulation.

Next project scrape the back glass, take the driftwood out and scrub it again. I pulled as much up off the sand as I could. Hoping this will help. Let me know what you think.

[edmlfc1]

phosphate tested and retested:
Tap .50
Tank with BGA .50
Tank without BGA .50

[Corvus]

Ah... it's even a planted tank (your fahaka seems to be a nice one)... that's good news...

I hope you have a green thumb.
Promote plant growth and the Cyanobacteria will go away with a little patience.
Do you use bulbs for plants, CO2 and aquarium plant fertilizer?
If not, you may want to consider that.
Plant growth will also help somewhat with the phosphate levels.

[Troender]

With that number of phosphate, there's a chance for BGA if you have low nitrates, which you have. Believe it or not, but higher nitrates will help (or at least is supposed to help - I haven't tested it myself).