Do not use QuICK Cure!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- Jase
- Mbu Puffer
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Re: Do not use QuICK Cure!
why are we still using medications for ICK when it can be cured with out them... 
-Jase
edmlfc1 wrote:A house without a puffer is not a home.![]()
- groovitudedude
- Fahaka Puffer
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Re: Do not use QuICK Cure!
Easier, less chances to take, less time with ich, etc.
AND some of us don't have a heater powerful enough to keep the tem at like 87 degrees constant.
AND some of us don't have a heater powerful enough to keep the tem at like 87 degrees constant.
- chevrolet67impala
- Puffer Fry
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Re: Do not use QuICK Cure!
I'm sure it works well for scaled fish but, according to my newfound knowledge thanks to this site, a couple of the ingredients are harmful and can even burn scaleless fish's skin...and seeing as how puffers are scaleless that would explain my "problems" with using it.groovitudedude wrote:Of course, if didn't know not to treat a puffer with QuICK cure, then yes, it will hurt them. And yes, I have done this in the past stupidly, and, again, yes, I am an idiot. It is my fault that my Modestus is dead, AND I also put all my fish in an uncycled tank. Yay for me.chevrolet67impala wrote:Quick cure claims to heal your fish in 2 days...It doesn't. It also contains very harmful chemicals (formalin) which I've been told is short for formaldehyde, which not only is embalming fluid, but it gives people cancer risks (if not cancer) and will burn the skin of your poor fishy. Nowhere on the quick cure bottle, nor package does it say not to use on scaleless fish (which are very sensitive and temperamental to chemicals as is), it says it's safe for tropical fish in fresh or salt water conditions... but really it's not safe at all. Due to my lack of knowing most of this, my poor sweet puffer died. In a tank filled with chemically stinging water. I feel inconsolably sad, and responsible. I'm posting this in attempts to stop any more puffers from dying of the same terrible fate as my beloved puffy did, to try to get the smallest bit of good out of my heartbreaking situation, please don't make the same horrible mistake I did...DON'T USE QUICK CURE!
If you would like to help me get the quick cure company to list on their bottles/packages not to use there product on scaleless fish please try to find their official website to complain( I have not yet found their website, if their is one, if you can find it please post.) or post negative reviews on pet supply stores which carry or even recommend this misleading product. Thank you very much, I hope this helps the puffer/puffer owner community...
Anyway, QuICK cure works for all of my scaled fish perfectly, I don't know why you're having problems...
- groovitudedude
- Fahaka Puffer
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Re: Do not use QuICK Cure!
Yeah, it's definately not good for puffers (I found out the hard way
). I do, however, suggest using it for goldfish and hardier fish only.
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crazedpuffer
- Former Staff Member
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Re: Do not use QuICK Cure!
I personally just use aquarium salt and increase the temperature.
- groovitudedude
- Fahaka Puffer
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Re: Do not use QuICK Cure!
Hey, there's more than one way to do things, right?
- Jase
- Mbu Puffer
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- Location: Montana
Re: Do not use QuICK Cure!
yes, but it seems more logical to kill it by salt and temp, rather than introducing a med with the ability to either kill your fish, make them sick, or not work at all. It does work fairly well when it actually works, but to keep it safe, I've never heard of any fish being hurt by increasing the temp and adding a bit of salt...
-Jase
edmlfc1 wrote:A house without a puffer is not a home.![]()
- groovitudedude
- Fahaka Puffer
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- FishFan
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Re: Do not use QuICK Cure!
Since this thread seems to be going in the direction of using only salt to treat ich on all species, we'll share our experience.
We've used salt, formalin and Quick Cure (malchite Green + formalin) to treat fish with ich. We prefer Quick Cure in species that are tolerant of the malchite green. Malchite green is not tolerated by some scaleless fish. Presumably this includes puffers so we've never used treatments with malchite green in dips or baths. We haven't tried Tetra's malchite green food and don't know if it is safe to use on scaleless fish. The reason we prefer treating ich using Quick Cure on scaled fish (not on puffers) is that it also treats a variety of secondary infections that salt alone may not cure. Salt is no longer the cure-all it used to be and we've seen Costia all too often as a secondary infection. Costia can cause heavy slime on fish or may be limited to patches (which can become infected sores) or to the gills (where it can kill a fish in 2-3 days):
"Flukes - 20% of cases are completely resistant to salt treatments at any level. Most cases are cleared at zero-point-nine-percent but less than thirty percent still clear off at the old zero-point- three-percent standby level."
Trichodina - 20% of Trichodina cases do not clear at even zero-point-six-percent. There are rare cases where trichodina does not clear even at zero-point-nine-percent which is also stressful to the fish. Formalin or potassium permanganate are recommended.
Chilodonella and Ich have never been recorded as being salt resistant in the least bit.
Costia has shown some resistance and it is part of the reason for this article.
Some outbreaks of Costia have been known to be salt resistant for at least two years. I saw my first case of salt resistant Costia in late 1996 on some Japanese imports straight from Los Angeles California. The Costia resisted zero-point-nine-percent stiff salt solutions and finally required Formalin for clearance, which works extremely well."
(quote - ref. fish veterinarian Doc Johnson "Costia" http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/art ... erm=costia)
For fresh water puffers, using salt as a first line treatment seems reasonable. We recommend caution when using salt, however. Regardless of what anyone tells you, it is possible to kill your biological filter bacteria when adding or removing salt from a tank with a fully cycled biological filter. Every time we've tried adding salt to a display tank it has precipitated ammonia and nitrite problems. We add 1tsp/gal aquarium salt each 12 hours for 3 treatments. What kills the filter bacteria is probably the rapid increase in salt that occurs at each treatment. To prevent problems with ammonia and nitrite you can treat in a QT. It is also possible that titrating the salt into the tank over 1-2 hours would prevent the osmotic shock that is most likely what kills the filter bacteria.
Reference - Treating Goldfish for ich with salt and malchite green food.
http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/art ... h_term=ich
Reference - How to treat Koi with salt in a pond (identical practice is useful in a tank with any salt-tolerant fish).
http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/art ... _term=salt
"Flukes - 20% of cases are completely resistant to salt treatments at any level. Most cases are cleared at zero-point-nine-percent but less than thirty percent still clear off at the old zero-point- three-percent standby level."
Trichodina - 20% of Trichodina cases do not clear at even zero-point-six-percent. There are rare cases where trichodina does not clear even at zero-point-nine-percent which is also stressful to the fish. Formalin or potassium permanganate are recommended.
Chilodonella and Ich have never been recorded as being salt resistant in the least bit.
Costia has shown some resistance and it is part of the reason for this article.
Some outbreaks of Costia have been known to be salt resistant for at least two years. I saw my first case of salt resistant Costia in late 1996 on some Japanese imports straight from Los Angeles California. The Costia resisted zero-point-nine-percent stiff salt solutions and finally required Formalin for clearance, which works extremely well."
(quote - ref. fish veterinarian Doc Johnson "Costia" http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/art ... erm=costia)
For fresh water puffers, using salt as a first line treatment seems reasonable. We recommend caution when using salt, however. Regardless of what anyone tells you, it is possible to kill your biological filter bacteria when adding or removing salt from a tank with a fully cycled biological filter. Every time we've tried adding salt to a display tank it has precipitated ammonia and nitrite problems. We add 1tsp/gal aquarium salt each 12 hours for 3 treatments. What kills the filter bacteria is probably the rapid increase in salt that occurs at each treatment. To prevent problems with ammonia and nitrite you can treat in a QT. It is also possible that titrating the salt into the tank over 1-2 hours would prevent the osmotic shock that is most likely what kills the filter bacteria.
Reference - Treating Goldfish for ich with salt and malchite green food.
http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/art ... h_term=ich
Reference - How to treat Koi with salt in a pond (identical practice is useful in a tank with any salt-tolerant fish).
http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/art ... _term=salt
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There has to be a point.
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Nick
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Re: Do not use QuICK Cure!
I can see using quick cure for goldfish because 86 degrees for weeks at a time might be worse for them than the meds, they being cold water fish.
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- LinearChaos
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Re: Do not use QuICK Cure!
The best treatment is to raise the temp and add salt, the high temperatures create an environment the parasite cannot thrive in. The best prevention is a QT tank.
I keep my tanks at 80-82 degrees at all times and I grow very large, healthy fish. If your tank is at a lower temp, raising it to the low to mid 80's will kill the ich.
I keep my tanks at 80-82 degrees at all times and I grow very large, healthy fish. If your tank is at a lower temp, raising it to the low to mid 80's will kill the ich.