Well actually my second my first died
I have a porc about 5 inches and he has got ich now i had him for 3 day
wont eat frozen but will eat live
first one died of ich and starvation i think
how do i get him to eat i know if i get him hooked on live it will be a BIG OLD PAIN right?
i just don't know what do do anymore i love these little guys and if this one dies i don't think i will buy another
and advice or help would be appreciated
Please help got my first and second porc
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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JWBLOCAL701
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Hi there &
![welcome [welcome]](./images/smilies/welcome.gif)
Please start out by reading the top sticky in this forum & giving us as much info as you can. Then read the sticky on treating SW puffers w/"ich".
![welcome [welcome]](./images/smilies/welcome.gif)
Please start out by reading the top sticky in this forum & giving us as much info as you can. Then read the sticky on treating SW puffers w/"ich".
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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JustinPSmith
- Figure 8 Puffer
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Hyposalinity is the best option if there are no corals or inverts in the tank. If there are inverts than you still may want to go this route to save your puffer if the ich gets really bad. I have personally found this the best way to treat marine ich. I usually do it in a quarantine tank though and leave the display tank fallow for 6 weeks.
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JWBLOCAL701
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Copper will possibly kill your "snowflake eel", which is probably a Gymnothorax tile moray. The "SW-ich" treating article suggested by pufferpunk is what you should do.
Since all your fish in the tank may be host of the parasites, they all should be treated together.
If the porcupine eats live food, I'd feed him live food. In the worst case you will only need a small tank in which the preferred or the most easy to aquire food is breed. I'd also try to freeze some of the accepted live food and offer it to the puffer defrosted. If it is only the smell that attracts him and not the movement he will it.
Since all your fish in the tank may be host of the parasites, they all should be treated together.
If the porcupine eats live food, I'd feed him live food. In the worst case you will only need a small tank in which the preferred or the most easy to aquire food is breed. I'd also try to freeze some of the accepted live food and offer it to the puffer defrosted. If it is only the smell that attracts him and not the movement he will it.
Some call it a product of a mis-spent youth, I call it Rock n Roll ! 