Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)
Anyone have any experience dealing with this? Doesn't seem to be much info on where it comes from besides stress. My Datnoid who is constantly hiding has developed HLLE on both of his sides. I am reaching out and seeking any possible help before I must return him or set up his own tank(Not optimal). Do you RTR, have any advice as to what to do?
-
RTR
- Mentor
- Posts: 6155
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 4:39 pm
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): East Coast, USA
HLLE is a complex disease, very likely to certainly "environmentally" induced. But "enviropnment" there is very broad - it includes:1) Diet (nutrition is very impotant, boosted care in diet corrects many cases by itself). 2) Stress from other fish. 3) Stress from less-than good water conditions or improper water conditions (as BW fisf in FW). 4) Stray electrical currents (shorts in the sytem such that the water is "live"). Doubtless there are more but those are the ones I have read about or experienced myself as subject to correction with resulting "cure" of the condition. Only #4 is short-term easy - find the fault and correct it, plus add a grounding probe.
The bugs commonly associated with the condition tend to be opportunistic infections, essentially taking adavantage of a pre-existing situation.
For all SW fish I have heard about or experienced, diet is key, and that key is algae. Boost the algae content in the diet, especially if cultured/grown in the system with the fish, and the condition clears rapidly.
For most FW fish with the condition (most frequently predators fed with LFS feeders), the cure is a more nutritious and balanced diet. This entails training to a prepared diet rather than feeders, or if feeders must be used, QTing the feeders and maintaining them long enough that they are super-healthy and then gut-loading with greens immediately before they are fed to the predator (you are what your prey eats).
In the case of your fish it is hard - the fish is not eating and is stressed - two strikes.
The bugs commonly associated with the condition tend to be opportunistic infections, essentially taking adavantage of a pre-existing situation.
For all SW fish I have heard about or experienced, diet is key, and that key is algae. Boost the algae content in the diet, especially if cultured/grown in the system with the fish, and the condition clears rapidly.
For most FW fish with the condition (most frequently predators fed with LFS feeders), the cure is a more nutritious and balanced diet. This entails training to a prepared diet rather than feeders, or if feeders must be used, QTing the feeders and maintaining them long enough that they are super-healthy and then gut-loading with greens immediately before they are fed to the predator (you are what your prey eats).
In the case of your fish it is hard - the fish is not eating and is stressed - two strikes.
Where's the fish? - Neptune
He does come out to eat, but only stuff that falls in front of his hiding spot. (Shrimp, worms, etc) He definitely isn't eating enough, but he seems afraid to come out. He is 5 times larger then any other fish, and no one goes near him. The other fish are F8's, Knight Gobies and a dragon goby and 2 tiny stonefish.