Any idea what this could be?
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Any idea what this could be?
I have a new palembangengis with strange markings on him. I have had him for two weeks now and notice straight away that he had some strange 'film' on him. I have used mela and primafix for 10 days fearing it was some kind of fungus.This hasn't changed.The best way I can think of at the moment to describe it is as if he has several patches of 'vasoline' on him.The patches don't seem to have any 'depth' to them - more like a thin 'film'. Any ideas?
Some call it a product of a mis-spent youth, I call it Rock n Roll ! 
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Bred
- Former Staff Member
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- Location: Toronto, Canada
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The irregularity of the patches is unusual for columnaris, but that is my best guess. Do you see any tiny white flakey bits, dots, or pimples?
Be cautioned that it may be very contagious; wash hands thoroughly after maintenance and use a different gravel vac / water change bucket to keep it isolated from your other tanks.
Be cautioned that it may be very contagious; wash hands thoroughly after maintenance and use a different gravel vac / water change bucket to keep it isolated from your other tanks.
bred - did I read on the old forum that you had a problem with this?
I have done a search for this desease and I am none the wiser. Typically one articles relates to these condititions, another doesn't. Alot recommend 'non puffer' friendly meds.One suggests a salt bath. What do you think?
I have done a search for this desease and I am none the wiser. Typically one articles relates to these condititions, another doesn't. Alot recommend 'non puffer' friendly meds.One suggests a salt bath. What do you think?
Some call it a product of a mis-spent youth, I call it Rock n Roll ! -
Bred
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 364
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:42 am
- Location: Toronto, Canada
- Contact:
Rocker, I'm still at it... Columnaris is a gram-negative bacteria and comes in a variety of strains, some more med-resistant than others. Check around the mouth, particularly below the bottom lip, for small white or brown "flakes"... when heavily infected, these can resemble little fishie goatees.Rocker wrote:bred - did I read on the old forum that you had a problem with this?
I have done a search for this desease and I am none the wiser. Typically one articles relates to these condititions, another doesn't. Alot recommend 'non puffer' friendly meds.One suggests a salt bath. What do you think?
I've had reasonable success with the anti-bacterial Furan-2 by aquarium pharmaceuticals. It does not kill the bacteria but rather stalls its growth, allowing the fish's immune system time to act against the bacteria. This did not "cure" the fish for me, however. You may have greater success. If you go this route, buy the 100 tablet bottle, you'll need them. My treatment duration was 12 days. Remove plants prior to medicating and aerate the tank very well. Nitrifying bacteria will be somewhat depressed but will not die off completely.
I'm trialing tetracycline-soaked foods. It's too early to know the results though.
Erythromycin was useless for me.
I've been logging my progress here: http://www.thepufferforum.org/viewtopic ... mnaris#962
I haven't tried the salt bath yet because I haven't had the time to really dedicate myself to 3 baths a day.
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Bred
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 364
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:42 am
- Location: Toronto, Canada
- Contact:
My Fahaka may or may not have had the disease latent when I got him over a year ago. When I brought home 3 SAPs (separate tank, shared equipment) which turned out to have the disease, the symptoms became plainly obvious / concerning for the Fahaka. That was ~4 months ago. The disease is progressing very slowly and I don't fully understand it.
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Bred
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 364
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:42 am
- Location: Toronto, Canada
- Contact:
I bought the last remaining pack of Spectrogram at my LFS and, while it was working, I didn't have enough for a 9+ day dosage. Kanamycin (Kanacyn) is one of two ingredients contained in Spectrogram by Aquatronics. The other is nitrofuranizadole (Furan-2), which is discussed above.
Kanamycin sulfate is still available as an antibiotic. I'd be interested to see someone try it out.
Though aquatronics is out of commission, their raw ingredients are still available, though it is considerably less convenient.
Kanamycin sulfate is still available as an antibiotic. I'd be interested to see someone try it out.
Though aquatronics is out of commission, their raw ingredients are still available, though it is considerably less convenient.
I have been treating with just primafix, dropping the melafix for two days.Some slight improvement.Looks like one or two patches have gone.Hard to tell with the light and colour changes of the puffer.Still very active, alert and feeding well.
Some call it a product of a mis-spent youth, I call it Rock n Roll !