He is in a 240 with a 80 gallon sump.. there is a couple tor and bala sharks in with him..
Thank you for your help!!
Pahaka Sick
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Pahaka Sick
I am not sure what is wrong with him.. I have been looking online for some anwers and then someone told me about this forum.. I have been doing to salt and heat thing, at first he started to look better but now today he looks a lot worse.. does anyone have any clue what is on my puffer??
He is in a 240 with a 80 gallon sump.. there is a couple tor and bala sharks in with him..
Thank you for your help!!
He is in a 240 with a 80 gallon sump.. there is a couple tor and bala sharks in with him..
Thank you for your help!!
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sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
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- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: Pahaka Sick
That doesn't look like ich, it looks bacterial.
Could you please answer all the questions above in red?
Could you please answer all the questions above in red?
Re: Pahaka Sick
Ph- 8sevenyearnight wrote:That doesn't look like ich, it looks bacterial.
Could you please answer all the questions above in red?
Ammonia-0
Nitrates-0
tank size 240 with 80 gallon sump.. A couple tor and bala sharks
Feed- shrimp with shell and craw dads, mussles.. 3-4 times a week
Water changes- 50gallons a day it is on a dip..Longer on the weekends
He was in the 240 with a divider tor and bala sharks on one side with him on the other the divider fell and he didn't eat any of them so took the divider out and I don't know if that my have stressed him so put the divider back in..
The tank has been set up for about 6months now..
Thanks
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sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
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- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: Pahaka Sick
So NO3 is 0? Or NO2?
What's the temperature?
I'm not positive what he has, but it didn't look like ich. I would treat with Freshwater Maracyn.
Do any of the other fish look like this? How long have the sharks been in there?
What's the temperature?
I'm not positive what he has, but it didn't look like ich. I would treat with Freshwater Maracyn.
Do any of the other fish look like this? How long have the sharks been in there?
Re: Pahaka Sick
Yeah it is 0.. The temp is at 80.. some of the other fish look like they just have ich not anything as bad as the puffer at all.. the sharks have in there for about 2months now..sevenyearnight wrote:So NO3 is 0? Or NO2?
What's the temperature?
I'm not positive what he has, but it didn't look like ich. I would treat with Freshwater Maracyn.
Do any of the other fish look like this? How long have the sharks been in there?
Re: Pahaka Sick
so i don't have any Maracyn around in any of the little stores that i have around me.. I would have to order it.. I do have some binox around what would you think about treatin with that?
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sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
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Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: Pahaka Sick
NO2 is nitrIte
NO3 is nitrAte
Which do you have a test for.
As far as the ich goes, follow this treatment plan: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28113&hilit=+Heat+salt
It's a little different than what you'll find online.
I don't know if the drugs in binox are safe for puffers, I'll have to find out.
NO3 is nitrAte
Which do you have a test for.
As far as the ich goes, follow this treatment plan: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28113&hilit=+Heat+salt
It's a little different than what you'll find online.
I don't know if the drugs in binox are safe for puffers, I'll have to find out.
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sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
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- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: Pahaka Sick
NO3- is like 20-40sevenyearnight wrote:NO2 is nitrIte
NO3 is nitrAte
Which do you have a test for.
As far as the ich goes, follow this treatment plan: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28113&hilit=+Heat+salt
It's a little different than what you'll find online.
I don't know if the drugs in binox are safe for puffers, I'll have to find out.
NO2- is 0
I can go look at the store to see if they do will live in a small town they don't have much
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sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
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Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: Pahaka Sick
I didn't find any warnings on using on scaleless fish, the drug in Binox is NITROFURAZONE: Bactericidal for many gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria causing disease in fresh water and marine fishes. This antibacterial is effective for control of Aeromonas, Vibrio and related species. Nitrofurazone is particularly useful for control of minor topical skin infections of marine fishes that have not become systemic. Effective against marine ulcer disease and protozoan. Also useful in treating furunculosis found in Koi. Serious adverse events related to nitrofurans are very rare. Acquired resistance of bacteria to nitrofurans during therapy has been rare and has not appeared on a significant scale in over 50 years of use. Do not use in the presence of invertebrates. DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. NEOMYCIN SULFATE: USE: Gram-negative bacteria (Pseudomonas- Red spots or streaks on body or fins of fish.) and tuberculosis; gram-positive, and possibly mycobacterium. Works well in freshwater or saltwater aquariums. DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. For tuberculosis, use for up to 30 days.
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sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
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Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: Pahaka Sick
Yeah with puffers being sensitive that is why i don't know if i should use the binox or not.. Just is all a scary situation..
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sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
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- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: Pahaka Sick
Maracyn and melafix and pimafix are the only things I know are safe that I feel would help with that secondary infection, whatever it may be.
Re: Pahaka Sick
I have not got a pic yet.. but got up this morning and looks like he has now like red dots and bumbs on him?
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Pufferpunk
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Re: Pahaka Sick
This looks very severe. Poor thing! 
Are you sure you've never used meds in there? Definitely looks bacterial. Anything other than Maracyn will destroy your biological filter but at this point, he is desperate for help. Melafix/Pimafix/Maracyn all together, is what I'd recommend. Do 80% WC, to get that nitrate down.
I don't understand, "Water changes- 50gallons a day it is on a dip..Longer on the weekends". If all you have is a fahaka & a few bala sharks & doing 50g partials daily, your nitrate shouldn't be that high. Are you cleaning the substrate? What does your filtration media look like?
What's a "couple tor"?
Are you sure you've never used meds in there? Definitely looks bacterial. Anything other than Maracyn will destroy your biological filter but at this point, he is desperate for help. Melafix/Pimafix/Maracyn all together, is what I'd recommend. Do 80% WC, to get that nitrate down. I don't understand, "Water changes- 50gallons a day it is on a dip..Longer on the weekends". If all you have is a fahaka & a few bala sharks & doing 50g partials daily, your nitrate shouldn't be that high. Are you cleaning the substrate? What does your filtration media look like?
What's a "couple tor"?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"