Hey Guys,
A little background:
I've got a GSP (about 2") alone, in a 75 gallon brackish tank that I've been doing weekly 20 gallon water changes. The SG is about 1.013 and I add a ammonia/nitrite/nitrate remover with each change. I just got the little guy about 3 weeks ago from my LFS here in Encinitas. I've been feeding him frozen brine shrimp, snails, and live Ghost shrimp and he's always had a voracious appetite. He sits at the bottom of the tank a lot (he seems to love the bubbler) but I've never thought anything of it because he always perks up when I come by and he comes to the glass to see me. And, on a side note, it seems as if one of his gills hadn't quite developed fully yet, making me wonder if that's why he's so enthralled with the bubbler.
A couple of days ago, though, I noticed him staying at the bottom of the tank and not as active as he used to be. Today, his under-developed gill opened up and there's a little, red stringy thing coming out of it. Now, from what I've read, it smacks of IPs right? The stringy deal coming out of his gill doesn't appear to be a worm, though, more like gunk that just seems to have accumulated. I don't know, I've had Fancy Goldfish before and dealt with plenty of parasites then (anchor worms and such), but none looked like this. He seems to be losing his appetite, as well. Not completely, but he's not quite as pro actively eating. For instance, he'll chase a Ghost shrimp around for a bit and then just suddenly lose interest and swim away. Also, I hadn't treated him for IPs when I first got him because, honestly, I didn't know much about the little guy and how much attention he needed.
I have a 10 gallon tank that I use to quarantine his Ghost shrimp and snails and I'm wondering if it's a good idea to put him in there and go ahead with an IP treatment? If so, I don't have a filter for the tank, just a heater and bubbler, should I do daily water changes? I'm just looking for a little guidance here. I really appreciate all the help!
Internal Parasites
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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jeffreyhaha
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Re: Internal Parasites
![[welcome]](./images/smilies/welcome.gif "welcome")
Since the problem is with his gill, treat the entire tank. Use Parasite Clear Tank Buddies.
Try a better variety of meaty foods: library/feeding/feeding-your-puffers/
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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jeffreyhaha
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2011 12:34 am
- My Puffers: GSP
- Location (country): US
- Location: Carlsbad, CA
Re: Internal Parasites
Thanks Pufferpunk, but he seems to have taken a turn for the worse and I'm not sure he's coming back. From the time I first posted, last night, to this afternoon he seems nothing like his former self. He almost appears "zombie-ish". I think he's having trouble breathing, as he leaves his mouth open at all times now. He looks really emaciated, though he just ate a Ghost shrimp on Friday, he hasn't eaten since then.
I've hospitalized him and dosed the tank with Metronidazole this afternoon. He still swims around, but it's almost like he's on auto-pilot. His eyes don't seem to register anything anymore. I hope he comes around, but it looks pretty bad. Thanks for the help, though. Should I use the Tank Buddies in the tank anyway, for a future Puffer?
I've hospitalized him and dosed the tank with Metronidazole this afternoon. He still swims around, but it's almost like he's on auto-pilot. His eyes don't seem to register anything anymore. I hope he comes around, but it looks pretty bad. Thanks for the help, though. Should I use the Tank Buddies in the tank anyway, for a future Puffer?