Alrighty, here's the situation.
Tank Parameters:
69-71*F
Nitrate: 20ppm and Dropping
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: 0
Salinity: 1.019 SG
Tanks Size: 40G B
Feeding: Mussels, shell-on-shrimp, occasional Ghost Shrimp (FW variety). Lately has only been accepting Omega One Algae Wafers, a favorite food.
Salt is DD-H20 and the only additive is Prime Decholrinator.
Changes in the last month: Added about 2.5lbs of Live Rock Rubble (Already Cured) from a display tank, brought down from 1.025 to 1.019 over the course of a week before being added. Nitrate level has since begun to drop. Macroalgae (calurpa) was also introduced at this time. That was aprox 2 weeks ago.
Equipment: Aquaclear QuickFilter, 2 air-driven Sponge Filters, Whisper 10i loaded with activated carbon, crappy Ebay air-driven skimmer (pulling green-tea color skim). There is also a large wad of Calurpa to help with nutrient uptake.
Tank was cycled using the old sponge filter from his last tank to seed the tank combined with large water changes to prevent waste accumulation. Filtration is now a combination of mechanical, biological, chemical, live rock and algal scrubbing.
Waterchanges are 20% weekly.
Behavior has been for aproximately one week.
Thinking this is a gill issue, should I treat with malachite green and formalin or go for general cure (metronidazole and praziquantel) and at what dosing?
T. Occellatus Flashing
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- LilGreenPuffer
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Re: T. Occellatus Flashing
Halt! Stop right there! Don't medicate until you know what's going on.
Is there any evidence of ich?
Is there any evidence of ich?
"I will give you a talisman. Whenever you are in doubt, or when the self becomes too much with you, apply the following test. Recall the face of the poorest and the weakest man whom you may have seen, and ask yourself, if the step you contemplate is going to be of any use to him or her. Will she gain anything by it? Will it restore her to a control over her own life and destiny? In other words, will it lead to freedom for the hungry and spiritually starving millions? Then you will find your doubts and your self melt away."
Found among the papers of Mohatma Gandhi

Come and visit http://www.thetriopsforum.com!
I AM A DUDETTE!
NEED NITRIFYING BACTERIA FOR YOUR NEW TANK? PM ME!
Found among the papers of Mohatma Gandhi

Come and visit http://www.thetriopsforum.com!
I AM A DUDETTE!
NEED NITRIFYING BACTERIA FOR YOUR NEW TANK? PM ME!
-
pufferfreak
- Mbu Puffer
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Re: T. Occellatus Flashing
Being as this is a coldwater species i might lower the temperature so that it is always below 70. Also if you seeded with "warmwater" biological filter media then it all died because of the temperature shock. Coldwater bacteria develop much slower then warmwater so your biological filter might not be functioning as well as it should be. Maybe its just a nitrate problem. BTW adding warmwater liverock will create the same die off in coldwater tanks. The rock is just recurring. I would water until nitrates are down before jumping to conclusions. Also you didnt specify the behavior he is exhibiting.