Striped Burrfish not eating
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Striped Burrfish not eating
Hi. Bought a Striped Burrfish (Chiloycterus Schoepfii) 5 days ago and it hasn't eaten since. I've tried all the recommended foods but still no joy. Has anyone had similar problems and if so how long did it last and how did you get the fish to eat. Thanks.
- Agnate
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1203
- Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:44 pm
- My Puffers: -
1 Abei Puffer [Monotrete Abei]
(Captain Abe) - Location: Ontario, Canada
- Contact:
Re: Striped Burrfish not eating
Burrfish are notorious for not adapting well to aquarium environments (as they are all wild caught). Have you tried live foods like ghost shrimp?
How does the stomach look (sunken, bloated, emaciated)? If it's really sunken/emaciated, it likely has a serious case of Internal Parasites (it likely already has these anyways, even if it's not advanced), and will have to be treated as soon as humanly possible.
I would put it in a cycled QT and use some IP medication (Gel-Tek or Jungle Labs Parasite Clear tablets both work very well). Since the burrfish isn't eating, you'll have to use the method of adding it directly to the tank until the burrfish regains its appetite.
Like I said, it's possible that the burrfish just isn't adapting to the aquarium environment.
How does the stomach look (sunken, bloated, emaciated)? If it's really sunken/emaciated, it likely has a serious case of Internal Parasites (it likely already has these anyways, even if it's not advanced), and will have to be treated as soon as humanly possible.
I would put it in a cycled QT and use some IP medication (Gel-Tek or Jungle Labs Parasite Clear tablets both work very well). Since the burrfish isn't eating, you'll have to use the method of adding it directly to the tank until the burrfish regains its appetite.
Like I said, it's possible that the burrfish just isn't adapting to the aquarium environment.
Did our staff successfully help you? The Puffer Forum is an incredible resource and is run completely on the donations of its viewers. Proceeds from the Puffer Forum store go towards future contests and keeping the site running. Donations may also be made via PayPal.
- Paul
40 gallon - Future home of Abei Puffer
28 gallon - 1 Abei Puffer (Captain Abe)
5 gallon - 1 Betta (Frederico)
- Paul
40 gallon - Future home of Abei Puffer
28 gallon - 1 Abei Puffer (Captain Abe)
5 gallon - 1 Betta (Frederico)
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Striped Burrfish not eating
![welcome [welcome]](./images/smilies/welcome.gif)
Sorry to say, you have a puffer that probably has one of the worst sucess rates to keep alive in captivity. Force-feeding may be necessary. Do a search here on your fish.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- Myaj
- Tech Team
- Posts: 4587
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 12:27 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Bubba, turgidus
Paris, lined burrfish - Location: SE Wisconsin
- Contact:
Re: Striped Burrfish not eating
Agreed, never, ever, buy a Burrfish that you don't see accepting food in the store. I think 90% of them die in captivity between being loaded with IP's and just not accepting food.
If you can get some live snails (Ramshorns, pond) try those. Or live nightcrawlers.
I get a little worried about the idea of dumping IP meds on these guys when they are already skinny and stressed, they almost always have a huge load of parasties and if you dose them, the parasites all die off and for a fish that's already weakened, it will probably kill the fish.
This is one of the cases that I'd rather see the fish eat and put on a little weight and settle in for a few weeks before blasting it with IP meds.. but if the parasites have a really strong hold, the fish just may never want to eat again.
But try a nightcrawler.. seriously, mine can't resist one.
And if you do get it to eat and survive, be warned they are picky eaters in general. Mine will only eat thawed out raw shrimp, live snails, live nightcrawlers and sometimes thawed out raw scallops (but not always).
If you can get some live snails (Ramshorns, pond) try those. Or live nightcrawlers.
I get a little worried about the idea of dumping IP meds on these guys when they are already skinny and stressed, they almost always have a huge load of parasties and if you dose them, the parasites all die off and for a fish that's already weakened, it will probably kill the fish.
This is one of the cases that I'd rather see the fish eat and put on a little weight and settle in for a few weeks before blasting it with IP meds.. but if the parasites have a really strong hold, the fish just may never want to eat again.
But try a nightcrawler.. seriously, mine can't resist one.
And if you do get it to eat and survive, be warned they are picky eaters in general. Mine will only eat thawed out raw shrimp, live snails, live nightcrawlers and sometimes thawed out raw scallops (but not always).
Re: Striped Burrfish not eating
Thanks for your help.
Fish still not eating but stomach is very sunken so it seems it's got a parasite problem. Can anyone recommend meds for IPs available over the counter in the UK. Also, if it continues not eating how long would it be expected to live.
Fish still not eating but stomach is very sunken so it seems it's got a parasite problem. Can anyone recommend meds for IPs available over the counter in the UK. Also, if it continues not eating how long would it be expected to live.
- Agnate
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1203
- Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:44 pm
- My Puffers: -
1 Abei Puffer [Monotrete Abei]
(Captain Abe) - Location: Ontario, Canada
- Contact:
Re: Striped Burrfish not eating
With an already sunken stomach? I wouldn't guess very long.
Wait for verification on this, but would it be wise to go with a lower dosage on the IP meds to mitigate the shock to the puffer? I know IPs build up an immunity to the meds, so it's not necessarily wise to do partial doses...
How big is your Burrfish? If its big enough, you can do force-feeding to keep it going while you're applying the IP meds (and would allow you to inject some of the meds directly through the mouth inside the food, instead of dosing the entire tank). Without force-feeding, though, I doubt the Burrfish will pull through. I've never done the force-feeding, though, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
Wait for verification on this, but would it be wise to go with a lower dosage on the IP meds to mitigate the shock to the puffer? I know IPs build up an immunity to the meds, so it's not necessarily wise to do partial doses...
How big is your Burrfish? If its big enough, you can do force-feeding to keep it going while you're applying the IP meds (and would allow you to inject some of the meds directly through the mouth inside the food, instead of dosing the entire tank). Without force-feeding, though, I doubt the Burrfish will pull through. I've never done the force-feeding, though, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
Did our staff successfully help you? The Puffer Forum is an incredible resource and is run completely on the donations of its viewers. Proceeds from the Puffer Forum store go towards future contests and keeping the site running. Donations may also be made via PayPal.
- Paul
40 gallon - Future home of Abei Puffer
28 gallon - 1 Abei Puffer (Captain Abe)
5 gallon - 1 Betta (Frederico)
- Paul
40 gallon - Future home of Abei Puffer
28 gallon - 1 Abei Puffer (Captain Abe)
5 gallon - 1 Betta (Frederico)
- Myaj
- Tech Team
- Posts: 4587
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 12:27 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Bubba, turgidus
Paris, lined burrfish - Location: SE Wisconsin
- Contact:
Re: Striped Burrfish not eating
Just my opinion, but I would try a nightcrawler first, just go out and dig one up from the garden (assuming there's no fertilizers/pesticides applied).. if your burr refuses to eat that, I think your only choice will be force-feeding it.
How thin is your burr? This is what mine looked like when I got it and it was still accepting food, but it had such a huge parasite load it was still uber-skinny (actually the photos make it look better than it was):


If its in worse shape than that, I'd say you'll have to play it by ear. If it won't accept a live nightcrawler, then there's probably nothing out there it will accept and you'll have to try to either force feed it (which might be very stressful for both you and the fish, as these are notoriously hyper/neurotic fish) or try dosing it with the internal parasite medications and hope it doesn't kill the fish.. lesser of two evils and without seeing your fish and being able to judge which would be less traumatic/harmful, I can't really tell you which route to take. Ideally, it will eat a bit, you can get some weight on it and a little time for it to settle in, and then you can treat for IP's when its a little stronger.. but if it doesn't eat... As far as full dose vs several smaller doses, in a weak fish that is already pretty far gone I'd probably lean towards doing the smaller doses.. but be careful to be very strict in your quarentine habits and don't share equipment.. you don't want any of those IP's travelling to your other tanks. Then once the fish is a little stronger, you can blast it with a full dose or change medication types to give the IP's something they don't have a resistance to.
Agnate, I am starting to believe there is just something odd about burrfish and parasites. I've given Paris mutiple, full doses of my old fashioned Metro/Levamasole treatment over the last few years, as well as the GelTek Ultra Cure PX (more recently), and every few months she needs a redosing.. she'll start to lose weight and feces get stringy and white again. I think they tend to carry something a bit more complicated than your usual IP's.. something more along the line of Annebelle's story, one of these days I'm going to have to really focus on figuring it out, before they get resistant.
How thin is your burr? This is what mine looked like when I got it and it was still accepting food, but it had such a huge parasite load it was still uber-skinny (actually the photos make it look better than it was):


If its in worse shape than that, I'd say you'll have to play it by ear. If it won't accept a live nightcrawler, then there's probably nothing out there it will accept and you'll have to try to either force feed it (which might be very stressful for both you and the fish, as these are notoriously hyper/neurotic fish) or try dosing it with the internal parasite medications and hope it doesn't kill the fish.. lesser of two evils and without seeing your fish and being able to judge which would be less traumatic/harmful, I can't really tell you which route to take. Ideally, it will eat a bit, you can get some weight on it and a little time for it to settle in, and then you can treat for IP's when its a little stronger.. but if it doesn't eat... As far as full dose vs several smaller doses, in a weak fish that is already pretty far gone I'd probably lean towards doing the smaller doses.. but be careful to be very strict in your quarentine habits and don't share equipment.. you don't want any of those IP's travelling to your other tanks. Then once the fish is a little stronger, you can blast it with a full dose or change medication types to give the IP's something they don't have a resistance to.
Agnate, I am starting to believe there is just something odd about burrfish and parasites. I've given Paris mutiple, full doses of my old fashioned Metro/Levamasole treatment over the last few years, as well as the GelTek Ultra Cure PX (more recently), and every few months she needs a redosing.. she'll start to lose weight and feces get stringy and white again. I think they tend to carry something a bit more complicated than your usual IP's.. something more along the line of Annebelle's story, one of these days I'm going to have to really focus on figuring it out, before they get resistant.
- Myaj
- Tech Team
- Posts: 4587
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 12:27 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Bubba, turgidus
Paris, lined burrfish - Location: SE Wisconsin
- Contact:
Re: Striped Burrfish not eating
Oh and Tink, my skinny little burr in those photos? This is what she looks like now:

