WHITE SPOTS ON SAP'S! HELP!!!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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pufferpuggirl
- Mbu Puffer
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Rainbow crab
crayfish - Location (country): Yorkshire, GB
- Location: South Yorkshire, UK
WHITE SPOTS ON SAP'S! HELP!!!
got it sorted, thanks for the help
Last edited by pufferpuggirl on Tue Jan 20, 2009 3:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Puffer .... man's best friend?"
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MatthewLaw
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 1:29 pm
Re: WHITE SPOTS ON SAP'S! HELP!!!
that sounds like ich. it is actually very common in SAPs. I would suggest looking on the hospital tab and finding how to treat for freshwater ich.
30g for 3 SAPs seems a little tight. especially since each needs about 15g of swimming room. SAPs get along in groups while Dwarf puffers usually do not.
I would treat the whole tank for ich.
30g for 3 SAPs seems a little tight. especially since each needs about 15g of swimming room. SAPs get along in groups while Dwarf puffers usually do not.
I would treat the whole tank for ich.
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pufferpuggirl
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 3979
- Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 3:04 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffs & Stuff:
1 x M Abei
1 x M Turgidus
1 x T Palembangensis
1 x M Baileyii
1 x T Schoutedeni
1 x T Leiurus
1 x T Miurus
Rainbow crab
crayfish - Location (country): Yorkshire, GB
- Location: South Yorkshire, UK
Re: WHITE SPOTS ON SAP'S! HELP!!!
I was fortunate in that I was able to speak to this man that is very knowledgable about Puffers, he's the person I've gotten most of my Puffer from. Anyway, he suggested a product to use and told me NOT to raise the temperature of the tank. So I'm going to shoot over and get some of what he suggested I use and then I'm going to do my tank -- and hopefully the result will be good.
Oh and I am about to get another tank, so once that is set up, I will be thinning out my Puffers, maybe move the Dwarfs to a tank of their own and let the SAP's have a little more room until I can afford a much bigger tank for them.
Anyway, off I go!!
Oh and I am about to get another tank, so once that is set up, I will be thinning out my Puffers, maybe move the Dwarfs to a tank of their own and let the SAP's have a little more room until I can afford a much bigger tank for them.
Anyway, off I go!!
"Puffer .... man's best friend?"
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MatthewLaw
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 1:29 pm
Re: WHITE SPOTS ON SAP'S! HELP!!!
medications rarely work. i have used the temperature/salt method with my SAPs with very positive effects.
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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Re: WHITE SPOTS ON SAP'S! HELP!!!
I highly suggest AGAINST adding meds in with puffers, who are scaleless fish! It can harm them more than help. I don't care how knowladgable that person is--please follow the directions in the article we have about this in our Library & your puffers will be fine. Also, get yourself test kits for ammonia, nitrite & nitrate.
Why is your pH so high? What's the pH of your tap water?
Why is your pH so high? What's the pH of your tap water?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"