Hey there, I have a Diodon holocanthus in a 55 gallon tank. I only put him in the tank about 3 days ago, I ordered him from http://www.freshmarine.comThe tank has been set up over a year and the parameters are all good (I check them everyday). Salinity is also in an ideal range. The puffer shares the tank with a chalk bass, a pistol shrimp, and a tangaroa goby. There are plenty of snails and hermits in there. I haven't made any changes in the tank since he has been there except that I shut off my two koralia 3 powerheads and put in a smaller powerhead that I had because the koralias were too strong for the puffer. I also have put in a little bit of reef buffer because the pH was just a little low for my liking (around 8.1, now its good)
Here's the deal: The puffer (about 3 inches long) arrived and looked alright, I acclimated him properly for about an hour before letting him go into the tank. None of the inhabitants annoyed him or stressed him, they left him alone. The fish, however, has not been swimming much. He likes to hang out hidden behind some rocks in a corner. He does eat but only if the food is right in front of his face (he doesn't chase it very far). He has tried ghost shrimp (ended up eating about 8 of them over the course of two days), frozen shrimp, and frozen squid. I'm thinking this could just be him getting used to the tank but I thought I'd just make sure. About 2 or 3 times he has gotten up and swam in front of the glass along the tank and he swims well.
He has no ich anywhere on his fins or around his spines, no cloudy eye, and his belly-though not bulging- is not sunken in due to parasites. Are my suspicions correct, is he getting used to the tank, or am I missing something? Thanks for the help.
Porcupine Puffer
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Nick
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
They're moody and often take some time to get used to a new tank. The new ones we get in at my job usually take a week or so to get relaxed.
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crayfish
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
Thanks for the quick reply. From my observations it does appear that he is being moody. I just thought it would be wise to cover my bases.
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crazedpuffer
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
Do you have plans to upgrade that tank in the future? That porc will add a lot to the bioload.
Your puffer is getting used to it's surroundings, in a few days it will be swimming all over and constantly looking for food.
Your puffer is getting used to it's surroundings, in a few days it will be swimming all over and constantly looking for food.
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crayfish
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
Yeah, for sure. I know how big the puffer will get. I am not concerned about the bioload at the moment because there are only two other fish in there. I have a marineland C-220 canister filter running the tank which does a good job right now.
Just one thing I forgot to add, the puffer will occasionally breath heavily as he lies on the bottom.
Just one thing I forgot to add, the puffer will occasionally breath heavily as he lies on the bottom.
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crayfish
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
I'm noticing that my fish's belly is a little sunken in. Could he have internal parasites and would his behavior be attributed to those? Is it worth trying to treat or will it harm him if there arent any parasites?
Edit: I'm reading up on internal parasites and it seems that mine could have some. What medication should I use and which is the best way to administer it? My fish eats but I dont know that he will go for prepared frozen food. He is more of a live ghost shrimp eater. Thanks.
Edit: I'm reading up on internal parasites and it seems that mine could have some. What medication should I use and which is the best way to administer it? My fish eats but I dont know that he will go for prepared frozen food. He is more of a live ghost shrimp eater. Thanks.
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Pufferpunk
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
1st of all, you need to get him off GS. They are totally non-nutritious (mostly water), unless you gutload them & should be QTed for weeks before feeding. Puffers need a varied diet of MEATY foods. There is an article on getting your puffer to eat, in the Library. Also an articcle on foods for your puffer. There also is a thread here going on now, about IP meds for SW fish.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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crayfish
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
Like I said, I am trying other foods to no avail. I am using entice but he still isn't very interested. I tried clams this morning and he didn't care.crayfish wrote: He has tried ghost shrimp (ended up eating about 8 of them over the course of two days), frozen shrimp, and frozen squid.
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Pufferpunk
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
Have you tried soaking in garlic? Did you read the article on getting your puffer to eat? He is used to live foods & you have to trick him into eating dead. Have you tried crabs? Earthworms?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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crayfish
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
I planned on buying garlic guard but lfs owner told me that entice was more popular because it worked better. As for garlic for parasites, I haven't tried that yet. I have not read the article. I dont have access to any crabs and I haven't tried earthworms. Here are some pictures, I tried to get a profile view to show his belly.
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Last edited by crayfish on Mon Apr 14, 2008 1:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Pufferpunk
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
He certainly doesn't look emaciated or anything. I think he just needs to be fed better foods. Read that article.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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crayfish
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
I read the article, i don't really think that's the problem. I know that movement will attract it and I have been experimenting with my powerheads to get him to go after these foods. Unfortunately, he spits them right back out every time. He has done this with squid, clams, and frozen shrimps from the grocery store. I think he might take some time
However, I'm concerned about him having IPs and how to take care of them. He just seems a little bit sickly, the way that he swims without very much strength.
However, I'm concerned about him having IPs and how to take care of them. He just seems a little bit sickly, the way that he swims without very much strength.
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SpockthePuffer
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
I would try earthworms, lots of people have had success with them for picky puffers.
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crayfish
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
Right, I will see what I can do. Unfortunately, there has been snow lately and cold temperatures so it won't be very easy to find any.
Edit: it was very easy to find one and my puffer attacked it and gulped the whole thing down.
That aside, how do I know whether or not to worry about IPs? If he's clean then I don't have any concerns. I will get him to eat. If he has IPs, I have a problem.
Edit: it was very easy to find one and my puffer attacked it and gulped the whole thing down.
That aside, how do I know whether or not to worry about IPs? If he's clean then I don't have any concerns. I will get him to eat. If he has IPs, I have a problem.
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mikeosoft
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Re: Porcupine Puffer
I would expect it to take at least a week for the puffer to settle in. Remember he's been very stressed from shipping and he's most likely terrified and exhausted. Once he realizes that you’re the person who brings the food he should perk up very quickly.
I'm glad to hear he's going for earthworms, they're actually pretty nutritional. I buy earthworms by the dozen from my LFS (local bait shops should carry them too). You just need to make sure you're not getting worms that have pesticides or other chemicals on them. I imagine he will start going after other foods with time. You could try getting some cheap snails / hermit crabs to see if he goes after them (I breed FW snails to feed my puffers).
I treat all my puffers for IPs as a precaution by soaking their food in Metronidazol. Praziquantel is another good dewormer, but my fish have always spit it out (even when soaked with garlic).
I'm glad to hear he's going for earthworms, they're actually pretty nutritional. I buy earthworms by the dozen from my LFS (local bait shops should carry them too). You just need to make sure you're not getting worms that have pesticides or other chemicals on them. I imagine he will start going after other foods with time. You could try getting some cheap snails / hermit crabs to see if he goes after them (I breed FW snails to feed my puffers).
I treat all my puffers for IPs as a precaution by soaking their food in Metronidazol. Praziquantel is another good dewormer, but my fish have always spit it out (even when soaked with garlic).