They're adorable, both of them!Iiemail wrote:this is my palembang puffer "buntal" and this my thiny mbu puffer " vivi " only 3cm
water parameter
- c333davis
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 187
- Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:10 pm
- Gender: Female
- Location (country): Jacksonville, FL, USA
Re: water parameter
~ Candice
With the following creatures in various tanks:
1 GSP with live rock and red mushrooms (viewtopic.php?f=9&t=25686)
1 Red-ear Slider Turtle—32-yrs-old!
1 African Cichlid - not sure of species
2 Green Terror Cichlids
2 Jack Dempsey Cichlids
~30 Jewel Cichlids
With the following creatures in various tanks:
1 GSP with live rock and red mushrooms (viewtopic.php?f=9&t=25686)
1 Red-ear Slider Turtle—32-yrs-old!
1 African Cichlid - not sure of species
2 Green Terror Cichlids
2 Jack Dempsey Cichlids
~30 Jewel Cichlids
-
RTR
- Mentor
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- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 4:39 pm
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): East Coast, USA
Re: water parameter
We actually always need to be aware of the water parameters, or of the water profile (which is all the parameters plus temperature). That is mainly to be sure that we are keeping the tanks as close as possible/practical to the profile of the tap (or other source) water.
The nitrogen metabolites are the ones that must be monitored most closely in immature tanks or in periods of major tank work, but in mature tanks without upsets, nitrate, KH, and GH are the ones checked most closely against the source water. Together they give the clearest picture of how well our tanks are maintained.
Nitrate is far less toxic than ammonia and nitrite, and toxicity varies significantly from one type of fish to another, but it is still a toxin, so we do want ti minimize it. GH which may increase over time also tells us about insufficient upkeep. KH is an early warning system as it is used up in normal tank processes, allowing the pH to decline over time -the first and major symptom of Old Tank Syndrome or OTS, the classic condition of under maintained tanks.
HTH
The nitrogen metabolites are the ones that must be monitored most closely in immature tanks or in periods of major tank work, but in mature tanks without upsets, nitrate, KH, and GH are the ones checked most closely against the source water. Together they give the clearest picture of how well our tanks are maintained.
Nitrate is far less toxic than ammonia and nitrite, and toxicity varies significantly from one type of fish to another, but it is still a toxin, so we do want ti minimize it. GH which may increase over time also tells us about insufficient upkeep. KH is an early warning system as it is used up in normal tank processes, allowing the pH to decline over time -the first and major symptom of Old Tank Syndrome or OTS, the classic condition of under maintained tanks.
HTH
Where's the fish? - Neptune
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Iiemail
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 1:00 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Buntal my palembang puffer.
Vivi my mbu puffer - Location (country): Indonesia, Surabaya
Re: water parameter
RTR wrote:We actually always need to be aware of the water parameters, or of the water profile (which is all the parameters plus temperature). That is mainly to be sure that we are keeping the tanks as close as possible/practical to the profile of the tap (or other source) water.
The nitrogen metabolites are the ones that must be monitored most closely in immature tanks or in periods of major tank work, but in mature tanks without upsets, nitrate, KH, and GH are the ones checked most closely against the source water. Together they give the clearest picture of how well our tanks are maintained.
Nitrate is far less toxic than ammonia and nitrite, and toxicity varies significantly from one type of fish to another, but it is still a toxin, so we do want ti minimize it. GH which may increase over time also tells us about insufficient upkeep. KH is an early warning system as it is used up in normal tank processes, allowing the pH to decline over time -the first and major symptom of Old Tank Syndrome or OTS, the classic condition of under maintained tanks.
HTH
thx, i always control the water parameter after changing water, make sure the water condition is good.
i check 1 week, hope that enough
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: water parameter
It is better to check the water before you do the changes, so you know if the amount you changed out the week before, was correct or you need to adjust. The idea of water changes is to keep the parameters in check, up until the mext WC.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: water parameter
How are you checking the parameters?Iiemail wrote:thx, i always control the water parameter after changing water, make sure the water condition is good.
i check 1 week, hope that enough
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Iiemail
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 1:00 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Buntal my palembang puffer.
Vivi my mbu puffer - Location (country): Indonesia, Surabaya
Re: water parameter
ph i use ph test azoo ( electric )trekenk wrote:How are you checking the parameters?Iiemail wrote:thx, i always control the water parameter after changing water, make sure the water condition is good.
i check 1 week, hope that enough
tds i use tds test hanna ( electric )
gh kh nitrite nitrate ammonia i use sera test kit
but i read in indonesia forum, when we know about tds we can know the water is soft or not.
tds/17 ... or 18 i forget heheheheh
here i give a table,maybe can help


hope all puffer in this world are happy