New Porcupine Puffer fish not eating
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer fish not eating
Have you read the recommendations in the article in this forum on Treating SW Ich? Adding most meds is seriously recommended against & NEVER in your main tank, as you have witnessed what it will do to your biological filtration. If you only have the one tank, then huge, daily water changes will be necessary to keep up with the bioload that can't be naturally changed to non-toxic forms.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
OraLacerta
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 573
- Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 12:51 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Tetraodon biocellatus.
RIP: C. travancoricus, Chilomycterus schoepfi. Canthigaster jactator. - Location (country): USA
- Location: USA
Re: New Porcupine Puffer fish not eating
Did you read the article in our library??
Never ever add any meds to your main display tank- it's impossible to keep the meds at effective levels because the LR will absorb much of it and the meds are most likely going to kill off any life in your tank inlcuding your beneficial bacteria. That is why I said you need to remove the fish and leave the main tank fishless thirty days- the ich will die off in the main tank with no hosts to feed on, and the fish can be treated for ich in separate tanks. There was no need to add meds you your main tank.
You may need to throw out the LR and substrate in your main tank and start over, as the meds you have added were absorbed into the rock and sand and can be released back into the tank.
PLEASE read the article on treating SW ich in our library. It will tell you about treating with hyposalinity and FW baths.
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/lib ... tal/swich/
Never ever add any meds to your main display tank- it's impossible to keep the meds at effective levels because the LR will absorb much of it and the meds are most likely going to kill off any life in your tank inlcuding your beneficial bacteria. That is why I said you need to remove the fish and leave the main tank fishless thirty days- the ich will die off in the main tank with no hosts to feed on, and the fish can be treated for ich in separate tanks. There was no need to add meds you your main tank.
You may need to throw out the LR and substrate in your main tank and start over, as the meds you have added were absorbed into the rock and sand and can be released back into the tank.
PLEASE read the article on treating SW ich in our library. It will tell you about treating with hyposalinity and FW baths.
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/lib ... tal/swich/
-Michelle
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish
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kylockwood
- Puffer Fry
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- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 1:28 pm
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer fish not eating
http://www.novalek.com/kordon/ich_attack/index.htm
Thats what I bought and it says its safe for live rock and such and the people at the pet store said it wouldn't harm my biological filter as much as other ich meds do. All I had to do is take out my activated charcoal.
Thats what I bought and it says its safe for live rock and such and the people at the pet store said it wouldn't harm my biological filter as much as other ich meds do. All I had to do is take out my activated charcoal.
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: New Porcupine Puffer fish not eating
As you can see--they were wrong. Your tank crashed didn't it?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
OraLacerta
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 573
- Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 12:51 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Tetraodon biocellatus.
RIP: C. travancoricus, Chilomycterus schoepfi. Canthigaster jactator. - Location (country): USA
- Location: USA
Re: New Porcupine Puffer fish not eating
Right, that's what the product claims so people will buy it, and the people at the fish store also have an incentive for you to buy the product as well- that doesn't mean their claims are true and your results certainly have demonstrated that. The article we have repeatedly recommended to you mentioned such remedies that claim to be safe for LR but still end up in disaster when tried...kylockwood wrote:http://www.novalek.com/kordon/ich_attack/index.htm
Thats what I bought and it says its safe for live rock and such and the people at the pet store said it wouldn't harm my biological filter as much as other ich meds do. All I had to do is take out my activated charcoal.
-Michelle
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish