My new fahaka
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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bigjon23
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:25 am
- My Puffers: C. Travancoricus named Tiny
T. Palembangensis named Drako
T. Lineatus named Maximus - Location: Phoenix, AZ
My new fahaka
I just brought home my newest puffer, a Fahaka. I have been wanting one for awhile and when my LFS got him in it was love at first site. I have named him Maximus. He is about 2.5 inches. When he got in at the LFS he had an internal parasite, he was pooping white stringy stuff. They treated him there and he is past that now. He then got ich and they were supposed to be treating that as well. They were using Jungle ich, temperature, and salt. I was scheduled to pick him up on this past Monday. When I got there he still was showing signs of a few ich parasites on him. We counted three. I decided that he would benefit more from my TLC than the bunch of employees at the LFS. They were trying to keep the temperature at 83 degrees, but apparently some employees were readjusting the heater all the time. I have my tank at 84 degrees, used some aquarium salt, and gave one dose of the jungle ich. He was very shy when I brought him home last night. He is swimming more around the tank and I fed him frozen bloodworms tonight that he ate up very quickly to give him a nice little belly. I plan to do a water change tomorrow and add more salt. I am going to abstain from any more medicine in the hopes that temperature and salt will rid the ich. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Re: My new fahaka
get him on Prawns or else later on you will be feeding him buckets of bloodworm.
And they grow bloody fast!
Good luck....Lovely Puffer...The best in my view
And they grow bloody fast!
Good luck....Lovely Puffer...The best in my view
If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man.
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Boxermom
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 2182
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:34 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
Re: My new fahaka
Do a major water change and get that jungle ich out of the tank. You don't need it and chemicals tend to do more harm than good. Treat with heat and salt for at least 2 weeks after the last time you see a spot on him - not two weeks from the time you start treatment.
What size tank is he in? Is there anyone else in the tank with him?
What size tank is he in? Is there anyone else in the tank with him?
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
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bigjon23
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:25 am
- My Puffers: C. Travancoricus named Tiny
T. Palembangensis named Drako
T. Lineatus named Maximus - Location: Phoenix, AZ
Re: My new fahaka
He is in a 75 gallon. I know its too small for him, but I hope to get a 120 or larger by December. The tank is fully cycled, did it with bio spira, took me about three weeks. Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 5. I have two flying foxes in there from the cycling. I have been trying to get them out but they are so damn fast and hide in the wood. He pays no attention to them and they leave him alone. I know I need to get them out of there. I have a Eheim canister filter 2215. I dropped the water level by 3 inches and placed the sprayer down to create more oxygen in the tank. He is acting normally, swimming around, comes to the front of the tank when I am there. Should I see some more spots develop in the coming days due to the life cycle of the ich progressing? I know there were only a couple spots on him from Monday when he was at the LFS, but his tank water there was cold.
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bigjon23
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:25 am
- My Puffers: C. Travancoricus named Tiny
T. Palembangensis named Drako
T. Lineatus named Maximus - Location: Phoenix, AZ
Re: My new fahaka
Maybe this topic needs to be in the hospital section. How do I move the topic? Do admins do that for me?
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Boxermom
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 2182
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:34 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
Re: My new fahaka
You may see more spots at some point over the next few days, yes. They often live in the gills unseen as well. Just make sure you keep up the treatment for a minimum of 2 weeks, longer is better. The flying foxes should be okay with the amount of salt used for treatment.
Topic moved.
Topic moved.
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
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bigjon23
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:25 am
- My Puffers: C. Travancoricus named Tiny
T. Palembangensis named Drako
T. Lineatus named Maximus - Location: Phoenix, AZ
Re: My new fahaka
Boxermom,
What constitutes mass water change? 50% 70% 80%? The temperature is at 84, should I have it any higer or is that sufficient? Thanks.
Jon
What constitutes mass water change? 50% 70% 80%? The temperature is at 84, should I have it any higer or is that sufficient? Thanks.
Jon
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Boxermom
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 2182
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:34 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
Re: My new fahaka
84 is sufficient. I'd do as big a water change as possible in order to get out as much of the medication as possible.
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1