Bought a gsp yesterday, doesn't look too good.
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Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Bought a gsp yesterday, doesn't look too good.
We bought our gsp yesterday, he's about 1 inch long. He seemed fine yesterday and happily ate the snails i gave him, seemed very active buzzing around the tank. Today is a different story, he's just sitting on the bottom, he wouldn't eat the frozen blood worm i put in and i'm really worried. I lost one of my dwarf puffers this morning and i treated both tanks with flubenol, could this be a reaction to that?
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Nick
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I really doubt it, my puffers are more active after flubenol... how was his tank cycled? Sitting on the bottom like that on day two sounds like uncylced tank troubles.
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.
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OraLacerta
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Please don't post the same thing in multiple threads, it's confusing. I have deleted your other thread and moved this to the Hospital.
-Michelle
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish
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OraLacerta
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- My Puffers: Tetraodon biocellatus.
RIP: C. travancoricus, Chilomycterus schoepfi. Canthigaster jactator. - Location (country): USA
- Location: USA
If the tank is cycled and he has no tankmates, I would just keep an eye out for any symptoms of diseases he may have picked up at the LFS. Besides that he may just be stressed considering he has only been in his new home for a day. Keep the lights off and let him settle in.
If he displays other symptoms, let us know. The FLubenol should make him more active; it did so with my puffer and I've of read similar results with other people's fish after adding Flubenol.
If he displays other symptoms, let us know. The FLubenol should make him more active; it did so with my puffer and I've of read similar results with other people's fish after adding Flubenol.
-Michelle
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish
Sorry i just thought this was a more relevant place for it and i wanted to mention the other symptoms that have appeared. My reply to nick seems to have dissapeared so i will just state again that it is a mature tank and todays water test results were ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate 5.0ppm
He has changed colour, he's gone from being vibrant green all over to being a brownish sludgy type green apart from a patch on top which is still bright. He also appears to have white cottony growths around his mouth and one eye, i think he may have a fungal infection. He did perk up after my last post, he was up and swimming around but he did seem to be twitching a bit, like something was irritating him. he is resting on the bottom now with the lights off.
He has changed colour, he's gone from being vibrant green all over to being a brownish sludgy type green apart from a patch on top which is still bright. He also appears to have white cottony growths around his mouth and one eye, i think he may have a fungal infection. He did perk up after my last post, he was up and swimming around but he did seem to be twitching a bit, like something was irritating him. he is resting on the bottom now with the lights off.
Here are some pics, i know they're not fantastic but you should be able to make out the white stuff round his mouth and left eye.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/ ... fer003.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/ ... fer004.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/ ... fer006.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/ ... fer009.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/ ... fer003.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/ ... fer004.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/ ... fer006.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/ ... fer009.jpg
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Boxermom
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Whether and when it needs salinity depends on the size, and its hard to tell from those photos but it looks like its still rather small. The GSP article in our Library will list the amount of salinity it needs depending on its size.
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
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Pufferpunk
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he is no more than an inch, maybe a little under.Yes he is in freshwater at the mo, he was in fw at the lfs too. I was planning on waiting couple of weeks and then starting to gradually up the salinity. What do you mean by chewed up? I don't think he'd been attacked at lfs as he didn't look this way when i got him, although he was in a small tank with around 10 others. I have just turned his light on and he is swimming around crashing into things.I haven'g any melafix or pimafix and can't get any until the shop opens. I have got interpet treatments Anti fungus and finrot, anti white spot plus, Anti slime and velvet and methylene blue. i really don't know what to do as have never seen anything like this before. 
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Troender
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It can be a he got a small wound at the shop, and that the stress from the moving gave him some infection in it. A tank with 10 GSPs could have given a lot of fighting. On the other hand, the Flubenol should have helped if its fungus. How much Flubenol did you use? It's important not to under-dose.
When you gave bloodworms, did you thaw them first?
Did you use strips or those fluid tests to test the water?
Is he still bumping into things? I don't like the sound of that. Does he eat at all? I would guess that he is stressed after moving. My GSP was stressed for a week when I brought her home. But on the other hand, she didn't get what she needed in the shop. That's part of the reason why I bought her...
When you gave bloodworms, did you thaw them first?
Did you use strips or those fluid tests to test the water?
Is he still bumping into things? I don't like the sound of that. Does he eat at all? I would guess that he is stressed after moving. My GSP was stressed for a week when I brought her home. But on the other hand, she didn't get what she needed in the shop. That's part of the reason why I bought her...
Inger Anne
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Just think how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of them are even stupider! -George Carlin
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Just think how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of them are even stupider! -George Carlin
I used a strip, then separate dropper tests to confirm, and yes i did thaw and drain worms first. Anyway, i think i have found the problem. I just called the shop where i bought him and they told me he was in salt water, all their fish are. As you can imagine i am fuming and also kicking myself for not calling sooner. When i bought him i asked the girl if they were in fresh or salt and she said fresh. The guy on the phone said they use table salt! I am now off to buy some marine salt and a hydrometer, suggestions on how to proceed would be hugely appreciated. I just hope the poor little guy will make it.
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Troender
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- My Puffers: 1x GSP (Bolla), 1x m. something. Bought as a leiurus, maybe a turgidus (Tiger), 1x c. irrubesco (Tott(a) aka Houdini) 1x c. salivator (Jack the Ripper), 1x m. cochinchinensis (Hufflepuff - R.I.P.), 2x c. lorteti (Tommy and Tigern = Calvin and Hubbes), 1x m. suvatti (Koseklumpen), 1x m. palembangensis (Dragonfly), 2x t. biocellatus (Koken and Fiken).
- Location: Askim, Norway