Ammonia in my tap water!!!!!!!!!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Stormylee
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:42 am
- My Puffers: 2x GSP
- Location: Kansas
Ammonia in my tap water!!!!!!!!!
I have a 29 gallon tank with with 2 baby gsps. Nitrites .75 ammonia .25. I just got the second 2 weeks ago and have had my tank for 5 weeks. I have fought two bottles of 30 gallon biospira and one for a 90 gallon tank. I had begun to think it was because I just used it wrong but it never cycled my tank. Today my ammonia was back up to .1 and nitrates at 1. I did a 40% water change to bring nitrites and ammonia down. Checked after nitrites down to .5 but ammonia went up to .30! I did a couple water tests on my tap and water I had setting out to be used for the next water change and then on some bottled water. the water setting out and the tap water both tested at 1. Not .1 but 1! The bottled at 0. Which I can only assume is why the biospira hasn't worked. Has anyone one else had this problem and would boiling it help or do I need to buy distilled (which is what I think will need to happen). I am so glad we've always drank bottled or my kids might be sick. I think I should buy more biospira and do like 20 gallons change with distilled. Does that sound fine? Also I do plan on buying a larger tank to separate my GSPs I have just been spending so much time and money trying to keep the water at a safe level. My sg is 1.005. Any help/advice is welcomed thanks.
Lover of all things living!
I don't know for sure, but it sounds like your water is being treated with chloramine (a combination of chlorine and ammonia). Like chlorine, it is added as a disinfectant. Unlike chlorine, it does not break down as quickly, which is a good thing when preventing bacteria growth in tap water. However, the usual idea of letting the water sit before adding doesn't work and regular chlorine removers will work for the chlorine but will still leave dangerous levels of ammonia. According to the internet, there are some dechlorinators that also remove ammonia (turn it into safe ammonium). Adding that to your water is probably the best choice. Also, although chloramine is dangerous for fish, the levels added to drinking water are not dangerous to people.
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
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I don't see why you would need to get more biospira, more ammonia around only means the bacteria have more food, it only doesn't seem to be working because after each water change, so much ammonia is added it takes the bacteria a while to build up enough biomass to process it, then when it's gone in a little while, the extra bacteria starve and die off, and this repeats at each water change. Distilled water would work fine, but getting delivery of bottled spring water might be cheaper long run.
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
I thought almost all conditioners that dealt with chlorine also removed chloramines, and would ammonia turn up on a test kit fresh from the tap from chloramines? I didn't suspect them because he got the same reading from the standing water and fresh from the tap, and didnt' think it would read on a test kit... interesting, Prime is what I use for conditioning, takes out chlorine, chloramines, and nitrite.
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.
Actually the beauty of Prime is not that it removes nitrite, but that it detoxifies ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. According to SeaChem anyway, but I believe them. It seems to have done it's job during the few times I've had emergencies.Nick wrote:Prime is what I use for conditioning, takes out chlorine, chloramines, and nitrite.
"Prime™ converts ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form that is readily removed by the tank’s biofilter. Prime™ may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. Prime™ detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, allowing the biofilter to more efficiently remove them."
http://www.seachem.com/products/product ... Prime.html
Our tapwater is treated with chloramine, and I have never seen ammonia in our tap water (test it all the time). Not saying that isn't the case, but I still wouldn't drink it.samaki wrote:Also, although chloramine is dangerous for fish, the levels added to drinking water are not dangerous to people.
http://www.ewg.org/tapwater/contaminant ... mcode=1003
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
I've read the spin on prime and it definately works as they say, never had a minicycle from using it (as can happen with ammolock) and when I have had a nitrite/ammonia spike and dosed the tank, in no time the fish are breathing much easier. I have no idea if it's actually easier for the biofilter to process, but it definately works fast and doesn't crash the tank. Thanks for confirming that chloramines are unlikely to be the source here and it's free ammonia, which seems very strange.
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.
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Stormylee
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:42 am
- My Puffers: 2x GSP
- Location: Kansas
I figured out that boiling it takes out the ammonia. I also have a filter on my fridge that does it. I had just never bothered to test the tap water. I took a sample from my kids school and it also read 1. Our water is treated with chloramines but I think 1 is an excessive amount.
Lover of all things living!
I don't know for sure, but it might be the case that chloramines won't show up as ammonia. However, there are some chlorine removers that aren't chlorine/ammonia/chloramine/etc. removers. I've heard that the chemical in those can bond to the chlorine, releasing free ammonia into the water. I haven't used Prime, but it sounds like a good choice for treating the water.
And I think you're right that Prime converts ammonia to ammonium, which is just a salt ion.
And I think you're right that Prime converts ammonia to ammonium, which is just a salt ion.
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Stormylee
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:42 am
- My Puffers: 2x GSP
- Location: Kansas
Thanks everyone. I'll be going to the Petland this week-end and will pick up more Bi-spira and try some Prime for my water this time and be patient. I have been boiling my water and letting it sit for a day. And from my last paycheck this school year I'll be buying one last larger tank to beautify my living room, to be cycled beforehand. Thank you to the puffer forum for the education.
Lover of all things living!
- OraLacerta
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- Location: USA
Your Petland carries Bio-Spira?? I should check with mine, I didn't even bother checking.
The Prime should help you out tremendously, best of luck!
The Prime should help you out tremendously, best of luck!
-Michelle
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish