help

Oh no! Sick fish?! Come here and see if someone can help!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!

Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.

1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.

2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.

3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)

4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.

5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.

We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.

While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.

Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Post Reply
ckk125
Puffer Fry
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 10:32 am

help

Post by ckk125 »

• SALT DIP & BATH – Parasitic crustacea are increasingly serious problems in cultured fish and can impact wild populations. Most parasitic crustacea of freshwater fish can be seen with the naked eye as they attach to the gills, body and fins of the host. Most affect the gills of freshwater fish, commonly seen in warm weather. A 3% salt dip, followed by 0.2 %-prolonged bath for three weeks, may be effective in eliminating this parasite. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_FA041
i bought a new palembang puffer and saw some worms near the gills.

how to use the salt bath? 3%?how?can i use my marine tank water and dip the puffer in?

Thanks![/code]
Paul Fox
Dwarf Puffer
Posts: 56
Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:14 pm
Location: Worcestershire
Contact:

Post by Paul Fox »

Where are you? flubenol 15 would be a lot more effective than a salt bath, have a look at the sticky at the top of this forum
User avatar
Pufferpunk
Queen Admin
Posts: 32976
Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
Gender: Female
My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles
Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
Location: Greenville, SC
Contact:

Post by Pufferpunk »

Salt bath can get those parasites out quickly & then treat with meds to be sure everything is gone. Using your marine water should be fine, I've done the same.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
ckk125
Puffer Fry
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 10:32 am

Post by ckk125 »

how long should the dip last?

Thanks!!
User avatar
Pufferpunk
Queen Admin
Posts: 32976
Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
Gender: Female
My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles
Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
Location: Greenville, SC
Contact:

Post by Pufferpunk »

Try 20-30 minutes, if the puffer can take it.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
ckk125
Puffer Fry
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 10:32 am

Post by ckk125 »

Thanks! currently im treating mine with ich...raised the temp to 32 celcius...and yes...32...he is doing fine...within 12 hours they are almost gone..once they are all gone, i will proceed with the saltbath..there are some worms attached to the area behind the fins...will the salt bath help to remove it?

Thanks!
User avatar
Pufferpunk
Queen Admin
Posts: 32976
Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
Gender: Female
My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles
Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
Location: Greenville, SC
Contact:

Post by Pufferpunk »

What do you mean, you're treating yours with ich? It has ich too?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
ckk125
Puffer Fry
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 10:32 am

Post by ckk125 »

yea...the puffer has both ich and parasite.

The tank is a Quarantine tank..60 gallons...
User avatar
Pufferpunk
Queen Admin
Posts: 32976
Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
Gender: Female
My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles
Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
Location: Greenville, SC
Contact:

Post by Pufferpunk »

What are you using for ich? Puffers are very sensitive to ich meds.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
ckk125
Puffer Fry
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 10:32 am

Post by ckk125 »

met blue and heat...30-32 degrees...he is doing well now...hovering around. :D
User avatar
Pufferpunk
Queen Admin
Posts: 32976
Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
Gender: Female
My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles
Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
Location: Greenville, SC
Contact:

Post by Pufferpunk »

I'd just go with the recomendations in my article on ich in the Library & remove the meds with a 50% water change & fresh carbon.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
User avatar
OraLacerta
Former Staff Member
Posts: 573
Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 12:51 am
Gender: Female
My Puffers: Tetraodon biocellatus.
RIP: C. travancoricus, Chilomycterus schoepfi. Canthigaster jactator.
Location (country): USA
Location: USA

Post by OraLacerta »

The methylene blue will aid a fish's breathing, but don't add it to the tank. Do a water change as Pufferpunk advised, and read her excellent article on treating FW Ich; it's very easy to read and will explain what you need to know. Then, instead of the Methylene Blue, use airstones, a powerhead, or a bubblewand to agitate the surface of the water to improve oxygen exchange (very important when maintaining high water temperatures), and possibly lower the level of the water in the tank a little (if you're using a HOB filter) so that is splashing on the surface a bit more. Preventing oxygen depletion should be a major concern along with maintaining water quality. That's all covered in Pufferpunk's article, and I'd really check it out as it very clear and informative.
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/lib ... tal/fwich/

The high temp and then the salt dip should do the trick, but adding strong Ich medications may very well make things worse. Even though Methylene Blue is safe at rather high concentrations, it shouldn't be added to a tank for prolonged periods of time but rather be used in dips when a fish is having breathing problems.

Be sure to add an airstone when you are doing the saltwater dip.
-Michelle

Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!

Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish
Post Reply