help needed sick puffer
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
help needed sick puffer
my F8 puffer "bumb" is sick water qualities are good, and his friend is fine, he just seems to be sitting at the bottom of the tank and when he eats he seems to vomit his food back up (bloodworm) please help what would you do ? do you know whats wrong with him ? i dont want to loose my little buddy
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Corvus
- Mentor
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puffers may vomit when overfed. do you have a pic of your puffers?
Vomiting is not very good for your water quality. Did you check your nitrates?
Bloodworms are not good if they are the only type of food offered.
If nitrates are low (ammonia and nitrites have to be absent), the diet was varied and they are not overfed I'd consider internal parasites possible.
Vomiting is not very good for your water quality. Did you check your nitrates?
Bloodworms are not good if they are the only type of food offered.
If nitrates are low (ammonia and nitrites have to be absent), the diet was varied and they are not overfed I'd consider internal parasites possible.
Give a man a fish, and he'll eat for a day. Give a fish a man, and he'll eat for weeks.
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Boxermom
- Former Staff Member
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"Good" isn't enough of an answer for us to help you. We need actual water parameters please (ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, SG), as well as info on how often you do water changes, tankmates, tank size, etc.
Puffers need to be trained to eat a variety of foods. It can be done but takes patience.
Puffers need to be trained to eat a variety of foods. It can be done but takes patience.
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
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OraLacerta
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- My Puffers: Tetraodon biocellatus.
RIP: C. travancoricus, Chilomycterus schoepfi. Canthigaster jactator. - Location (country): USA
- Location: USA
oh no
think ive made a big mistake ive been using aquarium salt not ocean salt, will buy some today, will it be ok to change half the water and add the new salt or should i wait a while.
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Hilly
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Previous:
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Carinotetraodon Salivator - Location (country): UK
- Location: Nottinghamshire, UK
adding the marine salt when you change the water is the ideal time to do it. You need to make sure it's fully dissolved before adding it to the tank by pre-mixing it in a bucket and using an air pump or better yet a powerhead to make sure it's fully dissolved. I speed the dissolving up by boiling the kettle and using the boiling water to help dissolve the salt then running it for half an hour with aeration before adding it to the tank. I have had no problems doing it this way.
You will nead something to measure the salinity, hydrometers are cheap and can be reliable if used correctly, do a search on the forums, there is plenty of posts on hydrometers. A lot of people like refractometers but they are more expensive.
have a read of this website, lots of good information and you can download a salt calculator which can be used as a rough guide to helping you calculate how much salt you need, measurement with a hydrometer or refractometer is recommended though so you can be sure what you have raised it to.
To be on the safe side you can raise the specific gravity by .002 a week this will allow the bacteria to have time to adapt to the new salinity so they shouldnt die off.
You will nead something to measure the salinity, hydrometers are cheap and can be reliable if used correctly, do a search on the forums, there is plenty of posts on hydrometers. A lot of people like refractometers but they are more expensive.
have a read of this website, lots of good information and you can download a salt calculator which can be used as a rough guide to helping you calculate how much salt you need, measurement with a hydrometer or refractometer is recommended though so you can be sure what you have raised it to.
To be on the safe side you can raise the specific gravity by .002 a week this will allow the bacteria to have time to adapt to the new salinity so they shouldnt die off.
Hilly
thanks
puffer up and swimming now, guess may have been the malafix and primafix plus water change but not sure, just happy to see him swimming again, thanks everyone
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Pufferpunk
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