Well I have just finished two weeks of IP treatment. The first day of treatment I put Jungle Antiparasitic tabs in the water and each day fed my puffers food (clams or krill) soaked in a tiny bit of water with a half tab (enough for 5 gallons of water in tank treatment) dissolved in it. I also put garlic extract in it so they would eat it better. I did this for about 6 days straight, took two days off and then another 6 days straight. I fed the other two mollys Jungle Labs antiparasitic food pellets. I was all excited because today was the first day without treatment and I was watching one of my F8's during a water change and noticed he had a little bit of white colored poop coming out that was holding on by a string. They don't seem to exhibit any other signs of IP, they are very fat, eat a ton and are not listless at all. Could they just be shedding the remaining dead parasites? Should I treat for a few more days?
Here is a reference to my previous post on my questions of how I should treat my puffers.
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/vie ... highlight=
White Poop!!! And after two weeks of IP treatment!?!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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helicopter
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:32 pm
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
I have never tried jungle tabs, but after I had some parasites that were not destroyed by treating the fish with geltek cure PX, I used Flubenol-15, and Shakespeare's condition much improved. Not all puffers starve themselves in response to IP's... Kiwifruit, a GSP I had, was the biggest glutton I had ever seen, would eat until he couldn't swim if allowed, and built up such a parasite load with his hearty appetite they eventually overpowered him and he got sick and died in only a day.
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.
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helicopter
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:32 pm
Well I just bought some Flubenol-15. I didn't know the conversion rate for pounds but it came out to $25 dollars. I got enough for 200 gallons. I figure I will only need to dose twice in my 24 gallon tank so I will have plenty left over. I figure in the future if I introduce new species I will dose the Flubenol-15 into a hospital tank and only using 5 gallons or so worth. Therefore I have tons left over. I could sell to someone who is scared of ordering from over seas.
My question is how long should I wait between dosing. I want to catch the second round of parasites when they are hatching to eradicate them all for good. Geez I wish I knew of this Flubenol-15 earlier because dosing their food is a pain.
My question is how long should I wait between dosing. I want to catch the second round of parasites when they are hatching to eradicate them all for good. Geez I wish I knew of this Flubenol-15 earlier because dosing their food is a pain.
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Hilly
- Mentor
- Posts: 1903
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Previous:
Tetraodon Sabahensis
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Carinotetraodon Salivator - Location (country): UK
- Location: Nottinghamshire, UK
I doesd once a week during water changes. When it arrives it will be in 2 small sachets laid flat, I would use half of the first pack and then the other half a week later after a water change. If you want to measure it out to make it last you are going to need some accurate scales as we are talking grams of powder to work with. It can be done though.
Hilly
Once a week is best after water changes, if they are egg layers, treat for 4-5 weeks, personally if i get ip in a discus or other cichlid, I do it for 6 weeks...
Theres no problen with it being sent over seas, especially to the states, its been done loads of time and I have never had a problem
You dont have to be too accurate using it as its impossible to overdose it, infact you are better off adding too much than not enough
Theres no problen with it being sent over seas, especially to the states, its been done loads of time and I have never had a problem
You dont have to be too accurate using it as its impossible to overdose it, infact you are better off adding too much than not enough
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
The 200 gallon treatment size is quite a good deal if you ask me, and provides at least 6 treatments to a 30 gallon tank, being generous in dosing - I just poured out one bag of the powder and cut it into three equal piles, dosed one the first time, and one the second time. 3rd time schedualed for next week.
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.