Internal Parasite - should the fish be kept alone?
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- vuphy
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 2:16 pm
- My Puffers: Tag - GSP
Stumpy - F8 - Location (country): USA
- Location: Milwaukee, WI
Internal Parasite - should the fish be kept alone?
We have a F8 that has internal parasite(s), and has since we got him. we put him in his own tank out of caution, but we would prefer to have him in our main 55g with 2 other f8s... is this a bad move? can the parasite spread to our other fish?
55g / 2 - F8 | 4 - Bumblebee Goby
40g / 1 - GSP
10g / 2 - Dwarf
10g / 1 - Knight Goby | 1 - wood shrimp | 1 - molly
56g / 1 - SAP | 2 - DP
40g / 1 - GSP
10g / 2 - Dwarf
10g / 1 - Knight Goby | 1 - wood shrimp | 1 - molly
56g / 1 - SAP | 2 - DP
- Boxermom
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 2182
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:34 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
Yes, its a bad move. If you put him with the others, all will need to be treated as they can all be infected with IPs from the one that has them. That's exactly how they spread.
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
- vuphy
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 2:16 pm
- My Puffers: Tag - GSP
Stumpy - F8 - Location (country): USA
- Location: Milwaukee, WI
ok, thats what we've always figured. we've had this fish for about 1.5yrs, and he was treated at one point for the parasite (while it was still near the surface of his skin). but once it burrowed into him, we stopped the treatments, cause we didnt want to hurt him. we will stay in the 29g alone then, we were just hoping it work.
thx
thx
55g / 2 - F8 | 4 - Bumblebee Goby
40g / 1 - GSP
10g / 2 - Dwarf
10g / 1 - Knight Goby | 1 - wood shrimp | 1 - molly
56g / 1 - SAP | 2 - DP
40g / 1 - GSP
10g / 2 - Dwarf
10g / 1 - Knight Goby | 1 - wood shrimp | 1 - molly
56g / 1 - SAP | 2 - DP
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32975
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
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T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
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suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
What makes you so sure he has them? I would think a fish could live a few weeks, even months w/IPs but a fish that small would be dead by 1 1/2 years with them.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- vuphy
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 2:16 pm
- My Puffers: Tag - GSP
Stumpy - F8 - Location (country): USA
- Location: Milwaukee, WI
he had a large lump.. that over time took on a coiled apperance, then started to move (very slowly, but visably) under the skin, from the right side to the left. then it get smaller, and his belly became lumpy, and still is to this day. he gets strange sores randomly, and his mouth looks oddly white at times. we figured it was all related to what ever this parasite is. he gets thin pretty quick, but we still skip one day a week feeding him... but we do give him more food than the rest, and he's not really grown in a year, and his belly never stay large for more than a few hours.
55g / 2 - F8 | 4 - Bumblebee Goby
40g / 1 - GSP
10g / 2 - Dwarf
10g / 1 - Knight Goby | 1 - wood shrimp | 1 - molly
56g / 1 - SAP | 2 - DP
40g / 1 - GSP
10g / 2 - Dwarf
10g / 1 - Knight Goby | 1 - wood shrimp | 1 - molly
56g / 1 - SAP | 2 - DP
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32975
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Not actually an "internal" parasite, per se. More of a sub-dermal (under skin) parasite, called a nematode. Yes, it is recommended to keep fish infected, alone.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- vuphy
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 2:16 pm
- My Puffers: Tag - GSP
Stumpy - F8 - Location (country): USA
- Location: Milwaukee, WI
ok, thx for your help ladies. he's seemed a bit loney since we've removed him for the other fish, but he does get more specialized treatment because of it. im guessing you dont recommend having any tank mates with him then? we had a knight goby with him for some company, they would hunt ghost shrimp together. though i dont want to endanger any other fish.
55g / 2 - F8 | 4 - Bumblebee Goby
40g / 1 - GSP
10g / 2 - Dwarf
10g / 1 - Knight Goby | 1 - wood shrimp | 1 - molly
56g / 1 - SAP | 2 - DP
40g / 1 - GSP
10g / 2 - Dwarf
10g / 1 - Knight Goby | 1 - wood shrimp | 1 - molly
56g / 1 - SAP | 2 - DP
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32975
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32975
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
It would have the rotting, dead carcass of the worm, under it's skin. Much better survival rate, to just leave the worm in there.
Last edited by Pufferpunk on Wed Mar 07, 2007 12:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- vuphy
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 2:16 pm
- My Puffers: Tag - GSP
Stumpy - F8 - Location (country): USA
- Location: Milwaukee, WI
...thats, unpleasant. thanks for the info tho. is there a point where we will need to, you know, help him go? like are there some signs we should look for?
there was a couple of times he looked so bad that we wanted to.. but he pulled through, and has always kept eating.
there was a couple of times he looked so bad that we wanted to.. but he pulled through, and has always kept eating.
55g / 2 - F8 | 4 - Bumblebee Goby
40g / 1 - GSP
10g / 2 - Dwarf
10g / 1 - Knight Goby | 1 - wood shrimp | 1 - molly
56g / 1 - SAP | 2 - DP
40g / 1 - GSP
10g / 2 - Dwarf
10g / 1 - Knight Goby | 1 - wood shrimp | 1 - molly
56g / 1 - SAP | 2 - DP