hello again
i posted sad fahaka yesterday with all water parameters tank size etc. ....glad to say he came out to say hi today and had no prob eating a prawn.....
however i ve seen him do something strange a couple of times and i just wonder if theres something else wrong that im missing?
hes in the corner hiding and he looks at the gravel as if to get a snail but instead he roles on his side and flicks his tail and it looks as if hes coughing......
i ve read somewhere they can get over production of slime is this the cause or am i worrying too much?
sad fahaka part 2...needs advise
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
danni pearce
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 1:16 pm
- Location: uk
-
danni pearce
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 1:16 pm
- Location: uk
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32975
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
You shouldn't really need to add crushed coral or any buffers to FW. What is the pH of your tap water? What is your water change schedule?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
danni pearce
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 1:16 pm
- Location: uk
well when i now do water changes every week depending on how messy histank gets.
the natural ph of our fw here is 8. and has a natural nitrate reading of 80.
so i ve strated using ro water and adding electrolytes and then a ph adjuster up so that the ph is 7.
the ph is now 6 and im adjusting it slowing up but i ve no idea why it crashed?
the natural ph of our fw here is 8. and has a natural nitrate reading of 80.
so i ve strated using ro water and adding electrolytes and then a ph adjuster up so that the ph is 7.
the ph is now 6 and im adjusting it slowing up but i ve no idea why it crashed?
-
danni pearce
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 1:16 pm
- Location: uk
If your water is from a company then they are breaking European guidelines are are liable. The max guideline is 50ppm. If you are absolutely positive they are correct readings then I would take this up with the company as they will then be breaking the guidelines and can be prosecuted.danni pearce wrote:hi there yes im in uk.... i just checked the nirates again and the reading came out as 80 approx... i know the water in our area is very bad we cant drink tap water unless its filtered, well we can but the council advise not to!
Some call it a product of a mis-spent youth, I call it Rock n Roll ! 
-
danni pearce
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 1:16 pm
- Location: uk
-
Hilly
- Mentor
- Posts: 1903
- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:36 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Current: Tetraodon Lineatus
Previous:
Tetraodon Sabahensis
Montrete Abei
Tetraodon Biocellatus
Carinotetraodon Salivator - Location (country): UK
- Location: Nottinghamshire, UK
You would assume nitrates would be at their highest when the agricultural season is in full flow during the warmer months of the year not during the colder months. Your water supply sounds terrible, makes fishkeeping even harder.danni pearce wrote:test kit is a liquid one and was only bought four weeks ago. the lfs havent tested my tap water but they also advise not to use tap water because apparently its always very high at this time of year but ok during the sumer months....
Hilly