GSP and salinity
- Troender
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:04 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: 1x GSP (Bolla), 1x m. something. Bought as a leiurus, maybe a turgidus (Tiger), 1x c. irrubesco (Tott(a) aka Houdini) 1x c. salivator (Jack the Ripper), 1x m. cochinchinensis (Hufflepuff - R.I.P.), 2x c. lorteti (Tommy and Tigern = Calvin and Hubbes), 1x m. suvatti (Koseklumpen), 1x m. palembangensis (Dragonfly), 2x t. biocellatus (Koken and Fiken).
- Location: Askim, Norway
GSP and salinity
Does anyone have a overview of the salinity a GSP needs at different ages, or rather different sizes (I have no idea how old my GSP is)?
- Troender
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:04 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: 1x GSP (Bolla), 1x m. something. Bought as a leiurus, maybe a turgidus (Tiger), 1x c. irrubesco (Tott(a) aka Houdini) 1x c. salivator (Jack the Ripper), 1x m. cochinchinensis (Hufflepuff - R.I.P.), 2x c. lorteti (Tommy and Tigern = Calvin and Hubbes), 1x m. suvatti (Koseklumpen), 1x m. palembangensis (Dragonfly), 2x t. biocellatus (Koken and Fiken).
- Location: Askim, Norway
- Troender
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:04 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: 1x GSP (Bolla), 1x m. something. Bought as a leiurus, maybe a turgidus (Tiger), 1x c. irrubesco (Tott(a) aka Houdini) 1x c. salivator (Jack the Ripper), 1x m. cochinchinensis (Hufflepuff - R.I.P.), 2x c. lorteti (Tommy and Tigern = Calvin and Hubbes), 1x m. suvatti (Koseklumpen), 1x m. palembangensis (Dragonfly), 2x t. biocellatus (Koken and Fiken).
- Location: Askim, Norway
And can you really trust those floating things to measure the salinity? It doesn't seem to change ever.
Maybe I should use that nice little thing in my avatar instead. She loves to drink that awful BW
She puts her nice little pink tongue through the feeding hole and drinks! She does this every time I forget to cover that little feeding hole.
I hope the puffer bites her tongue some time
Maybe I should use that nice little thing in my avatar instead. She loves to drink that awful BW
She puts her nice little pink tongue through the feeding hole and drinks! She does this every time I forget to cover that little feeding hole.
I hope the puffer bites her tongue some time
- Hilly
- Mentor
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Previous:
Tetraodon Sabahensis
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Carinotetraodon Salivator - Location (country): UK
- Location: Nottinghamshire, UK
There is a debate on hydrometers and refractometers on accuracy, I have never used a hydrometer so cant comment on them but when I set up my brackish tank I puchased a refractometer from ebay and have found that really easy to use. Others use hydrometers with no problems.Troender wrote:And can you really trust those floating things to measure the salinity? It doesn't seem to change ever.
Maybe I should use that nice little thing in my avatar instead. She loves to drink that awful BW![]()
She puts her nice little pink tongue through the feeding hole and drinks! She does this every time I forget to cover that little feeding hole.
I hope the puffer bites her tongue some time
Hilly
- Boxermom
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 2182
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:34 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
Neale Monks says hydrometers are pretty accurate as long as they are properly used and cared for. For example, too many people use the floating hydrometers by sticking them into the tank when they actually need to be used in a container such as a drinking glass.
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
- Troender
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:04 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: 1x GSP (Bolla), 1x m. something. Bought as a leiurus, maybe a turgidus (Tiger), 1x c. irrubesco (Tott(a) aka Houdini) 1x c. salivator (Jack the Ripper), 1x m. cochinchinensis (Hufflepuff - R.I.P.), 2x c. lorteti (Tommy and Tigern = Calvin and Hubbes), 1x m. suvatti (Koseklumpen), 1x m. palembangensis (Dragonfly), 2x t. biocellatus (Koken and Fiken).
- Location: Askim, Norway
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RTR
- Mentor
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- Gender: Male
- Location (country): East Coast, USA
Any tool can be used, or abused, often without realizing the difference.
Floating hydrometers commonly are not calibrated for tank temperatures, and thus read erroneously if not corrected for temp. They are temperature-critical, that cannot be ignored. They are also motion/current sensitive, thus the requirement for a glass cylinder for readin accurately. Meniscus reading is a art in itself, and misreading is again a source of error. Cleanliness is equally important - anything coating the surface changes either the density or the reading or both.
The inexpensive swing arm hydrometers are accurate enough IMHO for most tank work (especially BW), but not for reef work. They are less temp-sensitive than floating glass hydrometers, largely because they are less sensitive and are intended for tank use and temps. They are however equally sensitive to being dirty - if not rinsed well in tap water after use, dried minerals or tank slime/proteins etc. can dry on the arm and give false readins, ditto trapped bubbles on the arm distort readings.
Refgractometers are far more accurate, but there is a learning curve to using them, as there is with the other techniques.
If you can't or don't follow directions well, you may be wasting your time. But then, there are a lot of tank techniques where that applies. If you use them properly, any of the techniques can do the job.
Floating hydrometers commonly are not calibrated for tank temperatures, and thus read erroneously if not corrected for temp. They are temperature-critical, that cannot be ignored. They are also motion/current sensitive, thus the requirement for a glass cylinder for readin accurately. Meniscus reading is a art in itself, and misreading is again a source of error. Cleanliness is equally important - anything coating the surface changes either the density or the reading or both.
The inexpensive swing arm hydrometers are accurate enough IMHO for most tank work (especially BW), but not for reef work. They are less temp-sensitive than floating glass hydrometers, largely because they are less sensitive and are intended for tank use and temps. They are however equally sensitive to being dirty - if not rinsed well in tap water after use, dried minerals or tank slime/proteins etc. can dry on the arm and give false readins, ditto trapped bubbles on the arm distort readings.
Refgractometers are far more accurate, but there is a learning curve to using them, as there is with the other techniques.
If you can't or don't follow directions well, you may be wasting your time. But then, there are a lot of tank techniques where that applies. If you use them properly, any of the techniques can do the job.
Where's the fish? - Neptune
- Troender
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:04 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: 1x GSP (Bolla), 1x m. something. Bought as a leiurus, maybe a turgidus (Tiger), 1x c. irrubesco (Tott(a) aka Houdini) 1x c. salivator (Jack the Ripper), 1x m. cochinchinensis (Hufflepuff - R.I.P.), 2x c. lorteti (Tommy and Tigern = Calvin and Hubbes), 1x m. suvatti (Koseklumpen), 1x m. palembangensis (Dragonfly), 2x t. biocellatus (Koken and Fiken).
- Location: Askim, Norway
That is something I didn't know. That thing didn't come with a manual (neither did the first I bought, which my dog broke).RTR wrote:Floating hydrometers commonly are not calibrated for tank temperatures, and thus read erroneously if not corrected for temp. They are temperature-critical, that cannot be ignored.
Do you know how much I have to correct the readings at tank temperature?
That should go without saying. It's virtually impossible to read that thing if it's not standing still. But it is possible to make that thing stay still in the tank. And I am aware that it must not touch anything.They are also motion/current sensitive, thus the requirement for a glass cylinder for reading accurately.
I aware of that. That's simple logic. Anything attached to the hydrometer will change its weight, no matter how small. It's a fine balance in that thing.Meniscus reading is a art in itself, and misreading is again a source of error. Cleanliness is equally important - anything coating the surface changes either the density or the reading or both.
I haven't seen those for sale at all in Norway. Maybe I just haven't known what they are for, and haven't payed attention to it, but I can't say I have ever seen one. Actually I haven't seen any hydrometer in any LFS either, not in this area, at least. I had to buy mine at a shop on the Internet. Actually the two LFS in my town, rarely have what I am looking for. And their knowledge is even worse. I wanted to bang my head into the desk, when one of them had never heard about a powerhead or a pump for circulating the water (and of course didn't sell them either - the other shop had one, but far too small for my use).The inexpensive swing arm hydrometers are accurate enough IMHO for most tank work (especially BW), but not for reef work.
- Boxermom
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I found refractometers much easier to calibrate and use. And I'm not very smart, so if I can figure it out, anyone can. 
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
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RTR
- Mentor
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- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 4:39 pm
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): East Coast, USA
Most floating hydrometers are calibrated for reading at 21C (69.8F). If they are quality instruments, they should include one of those impossibly tiny print papers with the correction curves or tables. And Troender, yes, exactly - fine balance is precisely what they do.
Boxermon - I have not tried lately, but I am not sure that I could read a refractometer any more. When I tried at the worst of my vison problems, I could not, but I have improved a bit since then. Reading the TDS is hard enough.
Boxermon - I have not tried lately, but I am not sure that I could read a refractometer any more. When I tried at the worst of my vison problems, I could not, but I have improved a bit since then. Reading the TDS is hard enough.
Where's the fish? - Neptune