new and quarantined SAP
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
new and quarantined SAP
Hi im new around here, though i see some familiar names from the DP forum here
I hope to be here a lot now, as I just brought home a SAP last night. He was kept in an over stocked tank and exposed to both internal and external parasites (the first one we picked out had a few ich spots). He was the healthiest of the bunch, but my heart went out to all of them (they were all sickly, scared and fins chewed up). So anyway, Im going to be treating him for IP's in quarantine for 2 weeks, but I was wondering if putting in salt is necessary right now. Should I wait to see if he develops any white spots? I know he was exposed to it, could there be a chance he doesnt have it? I just don't want to give him any unnecessary stress w/ adding salt right away (unless you guys feel it is necessary). Thanks.
happiness is being a child
I have the temp right now at 81 F, can SAPs handle up to 86F? Should I start raising it? I did find a few spots so am going ahead w/ treatment. Thanks for the reply
Im glad to be here, it's so comforting to be able to ask advice from other fish keepers...how nerve wrecking it must have been to have a sick fish b4 the internet 
happiness is being a child
- Hilly
- Mentor
- Posts: 1903
- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:36 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Current: Tetraodon Lineatus
Previous:
Tetraodon Sabahensis
Montrete Abei
Tetraodon Biocellatus
Carinotetraodon Salivator - Location (country): UK
- Location: Nottinghamshire, UK
If you have a look at the top of the hospital forum there's a sticky on treating ich which gives you all the treating ich details, if you havent already read it that is. 
I dont think you should raise the temp anymore you've already got it high enough to speed up the life cycle of the ich. Just follow the instructions in the sticky and your SAP and hopefully your SAP will be at full strength in a few weeks.
And then we want pics.
I dont think you should raise the temp anymore you've already got it high enough to speed up the life cycle of the ich. Just follow the instructions in the sticky and your SAP and hopefully your SAP will be at full strength in a few weeks.
And then we want pics.
Hilly
thanks. I think she will pull through, she seems very happy and doesn't show any signs of stress (not climbing the tank walls like Ive read a lot of them do) I think she's loving her alone time for now, being in such an over stocked tank w/ not even 1 plant to hide behind...I noticed today she has quite a few bite marks on her belly. I've also changed my mind and believe it to be a girl
I'll put some pics on here too.
happiness is being a child
apparently saps are extreemly prone to ich.
This is what mine died of. i would recommend a temperature no warmer than 85 degrees. Add salt regularly and do frequent water changes. I hope your little guy pulls through.
Best of luck. keep us updated.
This is what mine died of. i would recommend a temperature no warmer than 85 degrees. Add salt regularly and do frequent water changes. I hope your little guy pulls through.
Best of luck. keep us updated.
What's the difference between a fish and a piano?
You can't tuna fish!
You can't tuna fish!
She's doing very well, just plays in the airstone bubbles all day and rides the current. I can tell she's getting sick of her little quarantine tank though, she has a lot of energy and just wants to go swimming! I have her setup next to my DP tank so she can mingle w/ them through the glass. This has the little DPs very interested, the SAP Im not sure even realizes they're there. I believe she'll pull through, she seems spunky enough and Im doing water changes everyday...w/ salt of course. Thanks 
happiness is being a child
![welcome [welcome]](./images/smilies/welcome.gif)
