PS - he has a healthy appetite and is not afraid of me at all, but spends most of his time sitting near the plastic plant, squeezed between the filter downpipe and wall, or squeezed under the heater.(Which is a fish burn safe type)
Ich and ....?(300kb in photos)
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
Ich and ....?(300kb in photos)
Say, does anyone know what this poor GSP has other than ich? He has ich like white dots, which I'm sure will not reapear after they fall off - he was in fresh water at petco, but was acclimated over 6 hours to SG 1.014, allowing me to place a fully cycled aquaclear 50 on his 5.5 gallon quarentine. I'm sure the ich is doomed at sg 1.014, and will clear up as quicly as the existing spots finish their life cycle and fall off, I'm just not sure what to do about his other skin problem, or even what it's called. His skin has a mucuslike, inconsistent cloudy coating. It was way worse before acclimating him to his current brackish condition. He's getting melafix right now, in case the problem is bacterial, but it's only been 2 days, so I'm not sure how much I could expect in that time. What does this look like to you guys?
PS - he has a healthy appetite and is not afraid of me at all, but spends most of his time sitting near the plastic plant, squeezed between the filter downpipe and wall, or squeezed under the heater.(Which is a fish burn safe type)
PS - he has a healthy appetite and is not afraid of me at all, but spends most of his time sitting near the plastic plant, squeezed between the filter downpipe and wall, or squeezed under the heater.(Which is a fish burn safe type)
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Boxermom
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 2182
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:34 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
I'm not sure but sounds like damaged slime coat, likely from the ich as well as handling. Its my unprofessional opinion that it will likely clear up as he settles in, gets rid of the ich, and is able to replace his natural slime coating (and de-stresses, of course). Poor thing looks like he's been through a lot. How can idiots let them get that bad in the store? There's no excuse IMO for ich to ever get that bad.
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
The petco system is definately at fault hear... I first saw him when he came in over a week ago, in slightly WORSE condition than this. He was in a bag of 12 "leopard puffers, $2.99" about to be released into a FW tank, and it was a TINY bag, there was nearly more fish than water. They know I love puffers so they didnt' mind me hanging out till they set them loose(without netting them, I learned them that one), at which point I realized it was about 6 full grown F8's, a couple younger F8's, and a few 2" gsp's. All but one or two had terrible skin simular to his, gray, mucused over, and heavily nipped fins. He was in the worst shape of the lot by far, sitting on the bottom, barely moving, but suprisingly eating really well. They all develped terrible ich the next day, and he looked much like he does now... it was so sad I didn't go back until last weekend. The whole tank bay was nearly cleared out, everything other than him and 3 other odd fish in other tanks had died from either the diseases or treatments. They had jungle labs ich cure tablets in there, and coppersafe. The coppersafe probably killed more of the fish than the disesase did. He's a real fighter to still be alive, so I bought him, with the premise of either getting him healthy, or making sure he got to live the last of his life without the copper burning his gils and the ich chemicals chaifing his already damaged skin. To me, the cloudyness looks like a clouded eye, only ligher in some places and denser in others, and in some places really dense, almost white, some of the spots that look like they might be ich definately aren't in person, they are irrgularly shaped and hang out off the slime coat.
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Puffer Queen
- Mentor
- Posts: 386
- Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 10:35 am
- Location: Louisville, KY
- Contact:
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HRPuffersnStuff
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 1:51 pm
- Location: State College, PA
- Contact:
Well... you should tell the manager to stop ordering puffers if there is no one working there who has any knowledge of them, and I know they do not have the means to keep them in brackish conditions... Just try to get them to stop. They do not just "get them in automatically" like some of the fish (iridescent sharks!) they are special order. As for the condition of the puffers, that is solely the fault of the supplier. My manager does not order in any puffers, not even freshwater because I am just about the only one who works there that could make sure they got a proper home. Good luck with your little guy, I hope you can get him better and make a difference for him. 
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
Is the transition to SG 1.014 with marine salt sufficient to deal with that? I have been under the assumption that such increase will destroy the ich as it leave the cyst stage to freeswimming, and he will be in quarentine at least a month, should that be sufficient that he be able to go to the 30, then be later upgraded to a 65 within 6 months to provide room for him and Shakespeare to reach full size and health.
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
It should get rid of the parasite but I'd add Melafix to heal the woulds caused by the parasite & add an airstone for extra O2.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
Kiwi is feeling much better today! The excessive sliming and cloudy slime coat have gone completely, leaving only a scattering of ich(about 1/4th what he had when he came home), and now he swims about nearly all the time, hardly ever resting on the bottom. Here's some photos of his improved condition:
I think the worst is over now, and he will steadily improve from here. After he shakes the rest of that ich and a looses or grows his weight, I think he'll have a future as a perfectly healthy puffer.
I think the worst is over now, and he will steadily improve from here. After he shakes the rest of that ich and a looses or grows his weight, I think he'll have a future as a perfectly healthy puffer.
