Miurus Puffer?

Dwarf, Red Eye, South American & more. Freshwater puffer talk in here.
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manutius
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Post by manutius »

:lol:
joeyg2100
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Post by joeyg2100 »

I ment like chemicals for treatment of desieses, and I also use a algie destroyer for my algie problems when they break out.
I use this stuff..
Have any of you used this stuff. My puffer seems fine and has no problems when I use it.
30 Gallon that is bare
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Phaedrus
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Post by Phaedrus »

As a general rule we try to limit the amount of any extra chemicals, especially if the problems they are meant to solve can be dealt with through other means. For instance, the best way to control algae is through nutrient and light management.

~50% weekly water changes, gravel vacuuming, and controlled feeding will keep nutrients down. Fast growing live plants are also useful if you're so inclined. In a puffer tank you are kind of limited in choice of cleanup crew like snails and shrimp because they are puffer food, but there is always manual scrapping.

The light cycle of your tank should not exceed 12 hours for a planted tank, and probably closer to 8 hours for a non planted, or limited to times when you are around to view it. Natural sunlight should be limited as well.

Chemical control of algae is a bandage solution to other underlying problems.

Chemical additives may have other negative side effects on the ecology of your tank and may end up doing far more harm than good. Fish stress, damage to the biological filter, or worse are all possibilities.
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Boxermom
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Post by Boxermom »

I'd also like to add that just because the fish looks fine doesn't mean that the chemicals haven't affected it internally and/or caused long term damage to its health. Unnecessary chemicals should be avoided if at all possible.
Tina

Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
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