salinty

Tain't fresh, and tain't marine! Talk about brackish setups.
scrotaye
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salinty

Post by scrotaye »

The LFS's hydrometer doesn't go low enough to measure the salinity required for a brackish tank.

What do I do?

Product suggestions?
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Boxermom
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Post by Boxermom »

Tons of refractometers for sale on Ebay. Got mine there, works great.
Tina

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Post by nmonks »

Or, if you're cheap, like me, spring the $5 for a floating hydrometer. Make sure it runs from 1.000 to around 1.040 -- such a one will keep you in good stead.

Then, download Brack Calc so that you can explore the relationship between salinity, temperature, and specific gravity. Something like a green spotted puffer wants a salinity around 50% that of normal seawater, which at 25C is about 1.011-1.012. You can of course keep them at higher salinities, and there may be benefits to that (use of living rock and protein skimmers).

Brackish water fish couldn't care less about a steady salinity, but your biological filter won't appreciate big swings in salinity (about 2 "points" on the scale seems about the limit, e.g., 1.010 up to 1.012 or down to 1.008). Even if your hydrometer is inaccurate by 5-10%, it will at least be consistently wrong from one water change to the next, and that's all that matters.

Please take the time to learn how to use a hydrometer if you get one. Measure water in a jug or jar, not the aquarium. Ignore the meniscus. Clean the hydrometer thoroughly between uses.

Cheers,

Neale
Last edited by nmonks on Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:58 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by Pufferpunk »

Go to another store that carries hydrometers that start at 0. There are several brands that do. You can also find them at http://www.bigalsonline.com .
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

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scrotaye
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Post by scrotaye »

I don't have a problem picking up a refractometer at full price if my LFS sells them (do they usually?).

No wonder the guy didn't know what i was talking about when I asked if he had a brackometer :roflmfao:

Okay, so I need a refractometer.

I'm about to do my first water tests. pH, nitrite, nitrates, & ammonia.

Are there ANY additional products I may need if these levels are too low OR too high? Seems like I'm making too many trips to the pet store. I'd like to get it all at once!
Last edited by scrotaye on Mon Dec 04, 2006 3:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
55 gallon aquarium. Crushed coral substrate. 1 rock, 1 piece of coral. 8' bubble tube. 4' T5 light. Emporer 280 filter. 3 fake plants. 2 GSP's. Heater & Thermometer. 80 degrees. More info coming a long as I progress. :-D Thanks everyone for helping me!
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Post by xtc »

scrotaye wrote: Seems like I'm making too many trips to the pet store. I'd like to get it all at once!
WHAT?!! How do you do that?!! And WHY would you do that? :lol:
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Post by Peregrine »

I have not seen refractomerters at many LFS...but my selection is limited...they seem to be more prevalent at stores that have a large marine section.

If you have your test kits...you should be ok...if you have fish in the tank and you detect nitrite and/or ammonia...you may want some Prime to detoxify it...but a better solution would be a water change.
If your nitrate levels are high...do a water change (in that case you may need more salt..if you dont have any extra)

If your PH is low...and it shouldn't be...if you have a crushed coral substrat, and air lines running in the water, and are using marine mix (salt)...you can buffer with baking soda...but you should not have to do this..if you do only use a very little..as raising the KH (and the PH) too quickly, can cause any inhabitant to go into osmotic shock (including the beneficial bacteria)
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Post by scrotaye »

I believe I have everything now.

I bought extra bio-spira, for when i do water changes. And I bought some melafix for my feeshies fins. And I special-ordered a refractometer which should arrive in 2-3 days.

Would it be safe to say I can start adding salt before the refractometer gets here?
55 gallon aquarium. Crushed coral substrate. 1 rock, 1 piece of coral. 8' bubble tube. 4' T5 light. Emporer 280 filter. 3 fake plants. 2 GSP's. Heater & Thermometer. 80 degrees. More info coming a long as I progress. :-D Thanks everyone for helping me!
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Post by Pufferpunk »

It should not be necessary to add Bio-Spira at water changes. 1 application, at the time you add your puffer, should be enough. Sounds like you have $$$ to burn. Did you exchange that T5?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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Post by scrotaye »

No, I like the T5. :-D
I'll keep it.

And hmm. I'll only ever need one application of bio-spira? What about when I do full water changes (if ever necessary)?

And not really money to burn, just money that I'm willing to spend to keep a nice healthy tank, and keep my buddies happy.

(ps: should/could I add salt before the refractometer arrives?) :P
55 gallon aquarium. Crushed coral substrate. 1 rock, 1 piece of coral. 8' bubble tube. 4' T5 light. Emporer 280 filter. 3 fake plants. 2 GSP's. Heater & Thermometer. 80 degrees. More info coming a long as I progress. :-D Thanks everyone for helping me!
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burrfish
T niphobles
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Post by Pufferpunk »

Hope you don't think I'm giving you a hard time... just seems you like to spend $$$ on your puffer!

The bacteria that you need to keep your tank cycled lives on surfaces--glass, decor, substrate, filter material--not in the water column.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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Post by scrotaye »

Seems like I had/have to to give him the right living conditions.

I went from a 2 gallon tank with a few plastic rocks.. not knowing that I had to get a full fledged aquarium system with accessories & decor. Not to mention medicine, testing kits, and water conditioners. And I unknowling bought a T5 light when a flourescent light would do.

The only things I have bought is what has been suggested by other people on this forum.

I said before that I didn't have the funds to get a full blown aquarium system going. I only said that because I didn't want to do so much work setting it up and learning about them.

But I learned about them, I love them, and I don't find spending money on a new-found hobby and at the same time giving my fish optimal living conditions a bad thing at all.

I'll ask a LFS about the salt. I read the article in the library.. but I guess have problems reading & applying. I like to collaborate with others when doing something I've never done before.

=]
55 gallon aquarium. Crushed coral substrate. 1 rock, 1 piece of coral. 8' bubble tube. 4' T5 light. Emporer 280 filter. 3 fake plants. 2 GSP's. Heater & Thermometer. 80 degrees. More info coming a long as I progress. :-D Thanks everyone for helping me!
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C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles
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Post by Pufferpunk »

What kind of filtration system are you using?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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Post by Boxermom »

Personally, I would hold off on adding salt until you get something that can measure it. Too much room for error otherwise. Most LFSes don't know what they are talking about unfortunately. Also, just make sure you use marine salt, not aquarium salt.
Tina

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scrotaye
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Post by scrotaye »

An emperer 280 -> http://www.marineland.com/products/cons ... mperor.asp

I have a box of marine salt waiting to be added. I'll wait till the refractometer arrives. Thanks.
55 gallon aquarium. Crushed coral substrate. 1 rock, 1 piece of coral. 8' bubble tube. 4' T5 light. Emporer 280 filter. 3 fake plants. 2 GSP's. Heater & Thermometer. 80 degrees. More info coming a long as I progress. :-D Thanks everyone for helping me!
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