Yet another question about Ich...
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Boxermom
- Former Staff Member
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- Location: Wisconsin
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I'm a little confused myself. I know I've seen several times on this forum people saying that they can be in brackish as juveniles but the sooner you move them into high end to full marine, the better for the fish. Have the recommendations changed now? Its getting very confusing because other advice that has been given for awhile now seems to be changing as well. I really don't understand what is going on or why recommendations are changing.
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
The recommendations haven't changedas far as I am aware.
The GSP is a BW fish. As a juvenile they start it low BW conditions even FW but are suited better to low end BW conditions. They will be healthy, less desease prone and grow more readily.
As they mature the level of salinity needs to be increased towards high end BW almost SW conditions.
The reason some people keep them in full SW conditions is as PP has said. The introduction then of skimmers and live rock make life a little easier.
The choice of an adult GSP is high end BW or SW.
The GSP is a BW fish. As a juvenile they start it low BW conditions even FW but are suited better to low end BW conditions. They will be healthy, less desease prone and grow more readily.
As they mature the level of salinity needs to be increased towards high end BW almost SW conditions.
The reason some people keep them in full SW conditions is as PP has said. The introduction then of skimmers and live rock make life a little easier.
The choice of an adult GSP is high end BW or SW.
Some call it a product of a mis-spent youth, I call it Rock n Roll ! 
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PetPirate
- Gone Today, Here Tomorrow
- Posts: 1230
- Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2005 5:41 am
- My Puffers: 3x Tetraodon Nigroviridis in full marine
- Location: Shanghai, China
- Contact:
I think the number of people with apparently healthy semi-juvenile GSPs in SW is good evidence that they can be healthy - but we're still not sure about the long-term effects. Mine have been in saltwater (SG = 1.026) for almost a couple of years now - they were fully converted at around 3-4". They appear to be pretty healthy.
As for the original poster - yes, very unlikely to be ich now, what with the prolonged saltwater dip you've given them.
First things first - pick a salinity, and keep it there. I'd recommend mid-brackish, say around a specific gravity of 1.012 - 1.015. Make the change slowly - over the course of a day or two, via water changes.
Now, you bio filter will still be completely shot due to the salinity change. Add in bio-spira (marine variety). And, from this point on, don't change the specific gravity by more than 0.002 / week!!
As for the original poster - yes, very unlikely to be ich now, what with the prolonged saltwater dip you've given them.
First things first - pick a salinity, and keep it there. I'd recommend mid-brackish, say around a specific gravity of 1.012 - 1.015. Make the change slowly - over the course of a day or two, via water changes.
Now, you bio filter will still be completely shot due to the salinity change. Add in bio-spira (marine variety). And, from this point on, don't change the specific gravity by more than 0.002 / week!!