No....
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- The Fisherman
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 694
- Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 2:46 pm
- Location: West Michigan
- Contact:
- The Fisherman
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 694
- Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 2:46 pm
- Location: West Michigan
- Contact:
- Myaj
- Tech Team
- Posts: 4587
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 12:27 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Bubba, turgidus
Paris, lined burrfish - Location: SE Wisconsin
- Contact:
Ich is always in the tank TFM, its just one of those things, similiar actually to internal parasites, that are usually there but as long as the fish is healthy and unstressed, they don't get out of control.
But once the fish gets stressed, the parasite takes advantage of the weakened immune system and multiplies. So it makes sense, he was stressed and the ich showed up.
But once the fish gets stressed, the parasite takes advantage of the weakened immune system and multiplies. So it makes sense, he was stressed and the ich showed up.
- The Fisherman
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 694
- Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 2:46 pm
- Location: West Michigan
- Contact:
Oh...I thought it was possible to not have any ich in the tank.Myaj wrote:Ich is always in the tank TFM, its just one of those things, similiar actually to internal parasites, that are usually there but as long as the fish is healthy and unstressed, they don't get out of control.
But once the fish gets stressed, the parasite takes advantage of the weakened immune system and multiplies. So it makes sense, he was stressed and the ich showed up.
Ah well, i'm not good with fish diseases anyway. I almost never get sick fish
This is actually the first time i've had to deal with ich.
- The Fisherman
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 694
- Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 2:46 pm
- Location: West Michigan
- Contact:
Hes gone....
I thought he was doing better, but I walked in to feed him last night and he was dead, lieing on the substrate...
Lots of worms drilling their way out of him too.....
Very large worms....It was sickening how large and numerous they were compared to Chubbys body...
I will miss and remember him always:
In loving memory: Chubby. (AKA: "The Chubster")

I thought he was doing better, but I walked in to feed him last night and he was dead, lieing on the substrate...
Lots of worms drilling their way out of him too.....
I will miss and remember him always:
In loving memory: Chubby. (AKA: "The Chubster")

- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32975
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
sory to hear about you Fig 8....i was heart broken when my first one passed away. They are cute little fellows and perfectly sized for most tanks.
Does plainfield still have the red eye puffer he's been there for months and i'm sure needs a home. Ask Greg he'll probably cut a deal to get it outa his tank ( i was going to buy it but my mood shifted due to employee attitude, havent been back since
). I'm saving my pennies for a trip to Preuss's in lansing for a holiday shop 
Jason
Does plainfield still have the red eye puffer he's been there for months and i'm sure needs a home. Ask Greg he'll probably cut a deal to get it outa his tank ( i was going to buy it but my mood shifted due to employee attitude, havent been back since
Jason
Oh yeah...ich being parisitic needs a host...no host for 2-3 weeks = tank with no ich. Fungus on the other hand is ever presents as are some other problems. As i've learning over and over at work, "it just takes one damn drop of water, wet finger or pass with an unclean net to infest a tank".
to top it off our wholesaler occasionally bombs us with ich and since we have no quarentine tanks (i'm pushing for a few at least) it sucks.
Jason
to top it off our wholesaler occasionally bombs us with ich and since we have no quarentine tanks (i'm pushing for a few at least) it sucks.
Jason
- The Fisherman
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 694
- Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 2:46 pm
- Location: West Michigan
- Contact:
Thanks guys.
I beleive the red-eye is gone from the plainfield VIpets. I was going to buy it too but someone beat me too it. Hehe yeah Greg would have cut me a deal. He sold me my modestus at less then half price as long as I promised never to bring him back
Turns out i'm probably not going to get to work at the VIpets on plainfield...something about they had an employment issue or something....not sure.
I beleive the red-eye is gone from the plainfield VIpets. I was going to buy it too but someone beat me too it. Hehe yeah Greg would have cut me a deal. He sold me my modestus at less then half price as long as I promised never to bring him back
Turns out i'm probably not going to get to work at the VIpets on plainfield...something about they had an employment issue or something....not sure.
- OraLacerta
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 573
- Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 12:51 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Tetraodon biocellatus.
RIP: C. travancoricus, Chilomycterus schoepfi. Canthigaster jactator. - Location (country): USA
- Location: USA
Aw, I'm sorry I didn't read this sooner John...
Talk about bad luck with puffers as of late... Don't be discouraged and keep your chin up!
Talk about bad luck with puffers as of late... Don't be discouraged and keep your chin up!
-Michelle
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish
Prevent unnecessary deaths due to disease- quarantine ALL new additions at least 4 weeks in a separate tank before adding to your main display tank!
Puffers: Hindenburg the Figure Eight, 75gallon Brackish

Some call it a product of a mis-spent youth, I call it Rock n Roll ! 