Just my luck, sick GSP
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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GunSmoke78
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:31 pm
Just my luck, sick GSP
Only picked him up yesterday. Put him in a 32gal tank all to himself. Seemed very healthy all day yesterday and throughout this morning until my wife fed him. After this he dissapeared for a bit (I literally could not find him, must be a really good hiding spot). When he reappeared, I noticed ick covering most of one side, and he's clamping his tail-fin. He's also swimming erratically up and down the top half of the tank. I did a quick water check, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0.5, Nitrate 10, ph 7.4. Salinity is 1 tbsp per 5 gallons. I tried my best to match the water parameters at the LFS to reduce changeover stress. Now the nitrite reading has me worried. The tank had been fully cycled for a week, adding 2.5ppm ammonia per day until the day before putting him in. So where this nitrite spike is coming from I don't know. However, the LFS owner suspected something might be wrong, so he gave me a couple blue tablets to drop in if things don't go well. A friend of my wife says puffers are sensitive to the stuff and I should just up the salinity and increase the temp. I've already raised temp to 82F, afraid to go too high. There's lots of aeration since I have 2 airstones and an air curtain going. Now I'm thinking of doing a 50% water change with 2tbsp/5gal salinity tomorrow, though I'm afraid a water change so soon might cause the little guy even more stress. Any suggestions, opinions?
- Myaj
- Tech Team
- Posts: 4587
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 12:27 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Bubba, turgidus
Paris, lined burrfish - Location: SE Wisconsin
- Contact:
First of all, what kind of salt are you using? Aquarium salt or marine salt? Aquarium salt is not giving him the right type of water he needs, you need marine salt to do that.
That said, if you raise the salt levels too fast, you can kill off your good bacteria and start the tank cycling all over again.
I'm not so up to date on using medications with puffers, so you'll have to wait for someone else on that one, but I would say in the mean time, water changes are good, maybe don't raise the salinity too much more if you are using marine salt (and get a hydrometer or refracometer so you know exactly how much you are raising it, over .002 each week will kill the bacteria).
Good start for him though, nice sized tank, precycled. The stress of moving just makes them so vunerable to things like ich.
That said, if you raise the salt levels too fast, you can kill off your good bacteria and start the tank cycling all over again.
I'm not so up to date on using medications with puffers, so you'll have to wait for someone else on that one, but I would say in the mean time, water changes are good, maybe don't raise the salinity too much more if you are using marine salt (and get a hydrometer or refracometer so you know exactly how much you are raising it, over .002 each week will kill the bacteria).
Good start for him though, nice sized tank, precycled. The stress of moving just makes them so vunerable to things like ich.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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GunSmoke78
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:31 pm
Well it's definately ick, one of the few things I can recognize from my old tetra tank. It doesn't seem to have spread overnight, and he's acting better. Such a funny fish to feed, just like giving a puppy treats! Nitrites have not dropped, so I'm gonna do a 50% waterchange tonight adding 2tbps/5gal. Yes I use marine salt (Instant Ocean). Gonna do this every other day, increasing the salinity by 1tbsp/5gal. This'll have salinity increasing at a rate of approx. 0.001/week. I've read most of the articles, just no mention of any meds except Melafix. Just not sure if I should use the "blue" stuff like the LFS owner says. I'm more worried about this nitrite spike right now, cause I was reading 0ppm for 5 days straight before putting him in.
Another question on the side. I use big 6gal plastic trashcans to prep water for water changes. The problem with this is, I have to lift these trashcans onto a stand atop my dinner table to bring it above the tanks water level, since I use a gravel vac to transfer the water over. Being military, there's a very real chance I will leave home for long periods of time, and my wife CANNOT lift a 6gal trashcan full of water above her head. Anyone know of some kind of pump or system I can get to just siphon it up from ground level?
Another question on the side. I use big 6gal plastic trashcans to prep water for water changes. The problem with this is, I have to lift these trashcans onto a stand atop my dinner table to bring it above the tanks water level, since I use a gravel vac to transfer the water over. Being military, there's a very real chance I will leave home for long periods of time, and my wife CANNOT lift a 6gal trashcan full of water above her head. Anyone know of some kind of pump or system I can get to just siphon it up from ground level?
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Pandora114
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:28 pm
- My Puffers: C. travancoricus RIP both of you little guys. Tank will be a F8 after GSP goes full marine
T. nigroviridis Named Pepsi - Location: Comox Valley, BC, Canada
- Contact:
Hey, Gunsmoke's Wife here...
Ich is still around...we're also having another bit of a problem.
He did a %50 water change last night (didn't ask how much Instat Ocean he put in...sorry) and the Nitrites are at an insane 2ppm still...
Ammonia = 0 ppm
Nitrites = 2ppm
NitrAtes = 40ppm
PH = 7.4
I've been instructed not to feed him today, and to only feed him every other day...(on water change days till the Ich goes away)
Anything else we can do to bring those pesky Nitrites down???
He's still an active little clown...he's been begging me for food all morning and it's breaking my heart..
ETA: Someone reccomended putting in Ion Exchange resin packs into our filter....would that help or harm? TIA!!!
Ich is still around...we're also having another bit of a problem.
He did a %50 water change last night (didn't ask how much Instat Ocean he put in...sorry) and the Nitrites are at an insane 2ppm still...
Ammonia = 0 ppm
Nitrites = 2ppm
NitrAtes = 40ppm
PH = 7.4
I've been instructed not to feed him today, and to only feed him every other day...(on water change days till the Ich goes away)
Anything else we can do to bring those pesky Nitrites down???
He's still an active little clown...he's been begging me for food all morning and it's breaking my heart..
ETA: Someone reccomended putting in Ion Exchange resin packs into our filter....would that help or harm? TIA!!!
- Boxermom
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 2182
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:34 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
I would do large water changes every day, without increasing the salinity. Raising the salinity too fast will kill the good bacteria. Not sure how fast he's raising it, but he may be doing it too quickly.
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
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Pandora114
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:28 pm
- My Puffers: C. travancoricus RIP both of you little guys. Tank will be a F8 after GSP goes full marine
T. nigroviridis Named Pepsi - Location: Comox Valley, BC, Canada
- Contact:
- Boxermom
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 2182
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:34 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
Its really vital that ya'll get a hydrometer, or better yet, a refractometer. Guessing at the salinity isn't a good practice and can be quite harmful for the fish. Ya'll need to be able to measure the SG.
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
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Pandora114
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:28 pm
- My Puffers: C. travancoricus RIP both of you little guys. Tank will be a F8 after GSP goes full marine
T. nigroviridis Named Pepsi - Location: Comox Valley, BC, Canada
- Contact:
we do have a hydrometer, just dont know where he hid it. Havn't gotten around to getting a refractometer yet.
I'll tear apart the area around the aquarium to find the hydrometer and see if i can get a reading. I'm gonna take a wild guess and assume he put 3tbsp of Instant Ocean in each 5 gallon bucket last night. So it's not quite at full brackish yet...
That's from one of his Previous posts in this thread.
ETA: Found it. Salinity is at 1.000 right now according to the hydrometer. When we first got him it wasn't even registering because he was only at 1tbps per 5 gallons.
I'll tear apart the area around the aquarium to find the hydrometer and see if i can get a reading. I'm gonna take a wild guess and assume he put 3tbsp of Instant Ocean in each 5 gallon bucket last night. So it's not quite at full brackish yet...
Gonna do this every other day, increasing the salinity by 1tbsp/5gal. This'll have salinity increasing at a rate of approx. 0.001/week.
That's from one of his Previous posts in this thread.
ETA: Found it. Salinity is at 1.000 right now according to the hydrometer. When we first got him it wasn't even registering because he was only at 1tbps per 5 gallons.
- Boxermom
- Former Staff Member
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- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:34 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
Somehow I don't think that's accurate. It is indeed raising it slowly if that's all he's increasing per week, but ya'll are now doing changes every other day with him adding more salt. I'm not sure though that 1 Tbs. of salt per 5 gallons .001 per week, especially with removing some and adding some. I'm guessing that evaporation hasn't been an issue yet with the frequency of water changes you guys are doing but in the future will have to be taken into consideration as well. That's why measuring the SG is so vital. Guesswork doesn't really cut it.
Hydrometers aren't terribly accurate, especially over time, which is why we recommend a refractometer instead. They're pretty inexpensive on Ebay.
Tina
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
Puffers: Auriglobus silus x1, Tetraodon travancoricus x1, Tetraodon turgidus x1, Tetraodon miurus x1, Tetraodon nigroviridis x2, Tetraodon baileyi x2, Tetraodon lineatus x1, Tetraodon palembangensis x1
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Pandora114
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:28 pm
- My Puffers: C. travancoricus RIP both of you little guys. Tank will be a F8 after GSP goes full marine
T. nigroviridis Named Pepsi - Location: Comox Valley, BC, Canada
- Contact:
Yeah he's been questioning the accuracy of it as well to be honest.
The Refractometer is next on our "to get" list for sure.
I'll let him know (if he doesn't check this thread) that he should keep the salinity the same for the next water changes till the Nitrites go down...
I think I'll bring up the possibility of internal parasites as well...Bubbles' belly goes down awful fast after a feed...
ETA: We were trying to increase the salinity to get rid of the ich problem (since it;s freshwater ich) but I guess we caused another problem lol *sigh*
We tried the temp increase technique but that just stressed the poor little guy to no end....
The Refractometer is next on our "to get" list for sure.
I'll let him know (if he doesn't check this thread) that he should keep the salinity the same for the next water changes till the Nitrites go down...
I think I'll bring up the possibility of internal parasites as well...Bubbles' belly goes down awful fast after a feed...
ETA: We were trying to increase the salinity to get rid of the ich problem (since it;s freshwater ich) but I guess we caused another problem lol *sigh*
We tried the temp increase technique but that just stressed the poor little guy to no end....


