I notices numerous very tiny white spots (almost look like pores) on his body, but not on any of the fins.
Whats some good Ich cures?
Its official early stage ich.
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Its official early stage ich.
Well I hate to say it but in all my years of keeping fish i believe I have my very first ICH infection on my little GSP Oscar.
I notices numerous very tiny white spots (almost look like pores) on his body, but not on any of the fins.
Whats some good Ich cures?
I notices numerous very tiny white spots (almost look like pores) on his body, but not on any of the fins.
Whats some good Ich cures?
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Bred
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The best cure is stickied at the top of this forum - here: http://www.thepufferforum.org/viewtopic.php?t=9
The 30 second version:
Raise temperature to 86-89F, increase aeration, and add 1tbsp of salt for ever 5 gallons (assuming your tank is FW). Hold the temperature and salinty at these levels for 12-15 days. Do 50% water changes every other day, adding back the same amount of salt you took out.
HTH
The 30 second version:
Raise temperature to 86-89F, increase aeration, and add 1tbsp of salt for ever 5 gallons (assuming your tank is FW). Hold the temperature and salinty at these levels for 12-15 days. Do 50% water changes every other day, adding back the same amount of salt you took out.
HTH
Last edited by Bred on Tue Aug 02, 2005 3:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Bred
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21 is overkill IMO. Continue for 10 days after the last visible signs of infestation - IF ONLY IF the temperature is above 86F. Use a trustworthy thermometer.
You can lower the water level in your tank an inch or two if you don't have an airstone. This should aerate sufficiently.
You can lower the water level in your tank an inch or two if you don't have an airstone. This should aerate sufficiently.
Last edited by Bred on Tue Aug 02, 2005 3:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
what about my poor little chinese algea eater, will i cook himBred wrote:If you're sure that's how much salt you have in your tank, then all you have to do now is raise that temperature.perek wrote:What if I already have 15 teaspoons on salt in the tank (25g) and water temp is 81 F
I cant put him in the other tank because Turgidus will surely eat him
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Pufferpunk
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Look very closely at your GSP. Tt could just be it's tiny spines & not ich at all. You'll need to gat that algae eater out of there, it won't appreciate BW. The amount of salt (marine, I hope) you have in there, will barely register on a hydrometer. I use 1/2 cup of salt to raise my SG .005.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
yea they do look pretty normally spaced. Kinda like a chicken pox pattern. Hence why i thought they looked like pores on skin.Pamela wrote:If he's already in brackish, I find it hard to bellieve he's got ich. are the dots in random clusters or do they look regularly spaced?
If the latter, they're his little spikes.
Pami.
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Bred
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You can make out some of the spines in these pics here: http://www.thepufferforum.net/viewtopic.php?t=356
If the white dots are raised above the surface of the skin, you have a problem. If they are recessed, then they are likely pores.
If the white dots are raised above the surface of the skin, you have a problem. If they are recessed, then they are likely pores.