Problems with new Stars & Stripes
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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FantasyReef
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 3:29 pm
- Location: Louisiana
- Contact:
Problems with new Stars & Stripes
I purchased a s & s puffer yesterday. The LFS netted it and during the process it "puffed" mildly. It was in its own tank, not a tank plumbed to the general population. They had been holding it for 3 weeks. I had a 2 hour drive home. When home, it seemed to be doing fine after acclimation. This morning, it is having difficulty swimming, keeping upright. It did spin a few times. I have put it in a smaller tank now just to keep itself from being hurt. I attempted the "burping" process to no avail. I have seen it defecate, so I know that isn't the problem. No visible parasites. No torn finnage. Eyes are clear. This fish is about 6 inches in length, counting the tail. Anything else I should be doing?
*~*~Lisa~*~*
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
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Puffer Queen
- Mentor
- Posts: 386
- Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 10:35 am
- Location: Louisville, KY
- Contact:
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
-
FantasyReef
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 3:29 pm
- Location: Louisiana
- Contact:
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FantasyReef
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 3:29 pm
- Location: Louisiana
- Contact:
ok, this has gone from bad to worse,real quick. I attempted to burp him again and he apparently has had enough. I have been severely bitten in the center of my hand. He is now majorly stressed and laying on the bottom.
I have washed MY wound out thoroughly, but I don't think I will be burping him again anytime real soon.
I have washed MY wound out thoroughly, but I don't think I will be burping him again anytime real soon.
*~*~Lisa~*~*
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Oh wow, how did that happen? I usuallly burp by holding the tail (in a net), head end up (head under water), shaking back & forth, till it burps.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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FantasyReef
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 3:29 pm
- Location: Louisiana
- Contact:
He wriggled around and bit me..this guy is a tad too big to be holding by the tail and shaking it.You want to position the puffer underwater with its head pointed toward the surface of the water. Carefully take hold of the puffer supporting its entire body. To do this and restrict the movement of the fish, hold the head and body, the bones of your hand parallel to the fish's spine and along its back and the fingers wrapping the head , avoiding the eyes as much as possible. Use your other hand to gently nudge the stomach to help the puffer release the air. Throughout the process, the puffer may attempt to reinflate. This is okay because the puffer is underwater and will refill with water, further helping to expel the air. If you need to "burp" a puffer larger than 6 or 7 inches, it may be necessary to enlist the help of a few extra hands.
*~*~Lisa~*~*
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Puffer Queen
- Mentor
- Posts: 386
- Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 10:35 am
- Location: Louisville, KY
- Contact:
Confining an arothron in a net is a BAD idea - they will usually go through the net or get the net embedded in the teeth/gums.
The idea of confining them in a critter keeper (has to be vented so waterflow is not impeded) or something similar that is weighted from the surface:
1. Keeps them from "ingesting" more air
2. Keeps them from the stress and excessive energy spent trying to get down.
3. Keeps them from bobbing at the surface and being picked on by other puffers or fish.
4. Keeps them under the water to prevent "drying" of portions of their skin.
5. Allows the puffer to work out the air without the stress of being handled (potential injury to skin - both the puffer's and the hobbyist).
I have been using this method for 12+ years with great success.
Best of luck.
The idea of confining them in a critter keeper (has to be vented so waterflow is not impeded) or something similar that is weighted from the surface:
1. Keeps them from "ingesting" more air
2. Keeps them from the stress and excessive energy spent trying to get down.
3. Keeps them from bobbing at the surface and being picked on by other puffers or fish.
4. Keeps them under the water to prevent "drying" of portions of their skin.
5. Allows the puffer to work out the air without the stress of being handled (potential injury to skin - both the puffer's and the hobbyist).
I have been using this method for 12+ years with great success.
Best of luck.
Kelly