GSP with cloudy eye
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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snakeskinner
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2005 11:17 pm
- Location: okarche, Oklahoma
GSP with cloudy eye
I've got a 20 gallon high with about a 3" GSP, 4 bumblebee gobies and endlers livebearers. We had 2 of the GSP's but one wouldn't eat one night and died the next day. The other started getting a cloudy eye the day after and it's slowly gotten worse. We had a cloudy eye on one of them a few months ago and it went away after a couple days. I've read somewhere about diet and water being a cause. I feed mine frozen Krill and snails every once in awhile. I gave it a live redworm the other night and added melafix and pimafix. I do regular 25-30% waterchanges each week but havn't had a chance to check the water parameters yet. I've been slowly converting the salinity and have about 1.002-1.003 right now. I'm not really sure what test kits to use with brackish. do I still use freshwater or should I use saltwater? I know there wouldn't be any ammonia or nitrite but not sure on nitrate levels. I use the same water in all my tanks and it runs about 7.0 although there is a piece of driftwood in the tank but doubt it's changed it much. My water is fairly hard with a KH of about 10 and GH around 20 but like I said, this is from past tests of other tanks, this one hasn't been tested. Are GSP's prone to cloudy eyes? I try to feed him many types of foods but he won't accept much. We started with freezedried krill and plankton but they were sucking air trying to eat the floating foods so I decided to get frozen instead and that works much better. I tried live ghostshrimp but they couldn't catch them and ignore them now. I used endlers livebearers to cycle the tank and when we added the puffers they chased them for a few hours and never caught any so now the endlers are overrunning the tank (go figure). They never bothered the gobies. I recently acquired a redworm culture and decided to test one on him and it worked so I'll at least be able to alternate redworms and krill. what else have people found to be readily available and accepted for good nutrition? thanks, Kyle
tons of freshwater, dwarf puffers, Green spotted puffer with bumblebee gobies in 20 being converted to brackish over time.
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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Please start by reading the info about this species in The Library. I'd bump up the water changes to 50% weekly. You should be able to use the FW test kits for ammonia & nitrItes. The amount of salt you have now is barely considered BW. You can raise the SG .002/week. Keep using Melafix.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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snakeskinner
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2005 11:17 pm
- Location: okarche, Oklahoma
will do. I have been changing 5 gallons with SG of around 1.006-1.008 trying to make it slow as not to shock them. I'll pick up the waterchanges and do some testing this weekend. thanks, KYle
tons of freshwater, dwarf puffers, Green spotted puffer with bumblebee gobies in 20 being converted to brackish over time.