PH Effect on GSP.

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Read this before posting!!

Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.

1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.

2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.

3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)

4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.

5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.

We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.

While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.

Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Bred
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Post by Bred »

drjuzz wrote:RTR what would be the best Product to buffer the water then, they have a really cheap PH only Buffer(witch dosent look to great), I found the Cape Coral PH and KH buffer in a marine Fish Store.
As mentioned earlier, the best, most effective, most stable and likely cheapest (long-term) product to buffer your water is crushed coral or aragonite. pH / kH buffering additives are not needed in this situation and should be eliminated asap. Switch out the substrate in your tank or put a few cups of crushed coral or aragonite in your cannister filter.

Clear as mud? :)
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Post by RTR »

Agree w/Bred - even though personally I hate changing substrate in an established tank. I end up taking the whole thing down and starting over. :(
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Post by drjuzz »

OKay, Let me get this straight, So even thought my premixed water's PH is
lower (at the moment is sits at between 7 and 7.7) than my mains tanks PH, i can still mix it in? won't the lower PH of the water change the PH in the main tank causing stress for the fish over the time it takes for the crushed coral or aragonite to buffer the water up to the right PH? or is it instant ?

as of this morning, Shermy is still very black, it is possible that this drop in PH could have affected his eye sight? reson i ask is cause he does'nt seem to see the snails when i drop them into the tank (even right in front of him) be4 he used to charge at them full speed from the other side of the tank and take them out :cry:
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Post by RTR »

The pH does not directly affect the fish at all. The specific minerals do affect the fish, as does the TDS/"salinity"/whatever - the osmotic strength of the solution. The pH may serve as an indicator that the solution is off, but it tells you nothing of why or how it is off.

My aging for BW/SW incorporates flow-through aragonite beds, so helps boost alkalinity & TDS.
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drjuzz
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Post by drjuzz »

Thanks for Help :-)

I changed out some of the subtrate with crushed coral last night and did a 20% change with a filter clean.

Will Keep a close eye on things over the weekend!

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23G - 1 x Green Spotted Puppy (Shermy) & 1x Blue spotted African Mudskipper, Periopthalmus barbarus (Blinky)
60 +- Snails :-)
20 x Juggling Balls
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1 X 3 1/2 inch Juliet live steam locomotive.
1 x 24' Muni cycle (mountain Uni cycle)
Lots Of Fun!
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Post by perek »

I guess my GSPs are just more manly than your puffers :lol:

They survived (and didnt lose color):
-6ppm of ammonia
-High Nitrate and Nitrite level
-A pH drop from 8.1 to 6.7
-survived a waterchange without using declorinater

They are tough little buggers! :twisted:
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Post by Pamela »

How long ago was that, Perek? Are tehy showing any long-term effects from that trauma?
By the way...calling someone's puffers unmanly...that's fighting talk...fins at ten paces :twisted: :twisted:
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Post by RTR »

How about incisors at nose-to-nose? :twisted:
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Post by perek »

Pamela wrote:How long ago was that, Perek? Are tehy showing any long-term effects from that trauma?
By the way...calling someone's puffers unmanly...that's fighting talk...fins at ten paces :twisted: :twisted:
Pami.
2 weeks ago, when i made the mistake of putting 30 ramshorns in the tank before bed thinking they couldnt eat them all. Well next morning the tank was a mess, it looking like a snail disaster. They had eaten 30 MATURE ramshorns, I thought the smaller one was gonna explode. I will never make that mistake ever again. :shock:
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Post by Pufferpunk »

My GSPs have survived 3 tank crashes of ammonia & nitrites off the chart. The knight gobies didn't know the diffdrence, they were breeding.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

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