I need Ick Help
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
I need Ick Help
I have a 55 gallon tank with ick really badly. All of my fish have it and its pretty bad. Could someone PLEASE give me instructions on what to do to get rid of it. Its a 55 gallon with fish and live rock. about 55 lbs of live rock. It has a lionfish, a yellow tang, a trigger, and two damsels. PLEASE HELP! THANKS!!!
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lisalisa
You're going to have to remove all of your fish to a Qt tank, drop the SG to ~1.017, and let your show tank run fishless for 6 weeks. You are also horrendously overstocked, which is not going to help your situation. What kind of lion and trigger? The yellow tang has to go, unless you are getting 100+gallon tank, as does the lion (depending on species) and trigger.
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Rusty
- Green Spotted Puffer
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Thanks lisa.
From my own experience, the main times ick rears its head is when a fish is stressed. the parasites are always in the water but when stressed it lowers their ability to fight. when it does go away its almost a assured that it will come back unless you lower the stocking level.
From my own experience, the main times ick rears its head is when a fish is stressed. the parasites are always in the water but when stressed it lowers their ability to fight. when it does go away its almost a assured that it will come back unless you lower the stocking level.
Old fishermen never die, they just smell that way.
Rusty
Rusty
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Pufferpunk
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Rusty
- Green Spotted Puffer
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Thanks for calling me on that one PP. you caught me surrender smackbum , i did overstate it a bit. Sorry i just always try to take the safest approach when it comes to fish.
Think about it fish are in a great medium (water) for bacterial and parasitic attacks. If its in the water they basically have no way of avoiding it. Though their defenses might not be super advanced they are specialized to prevent illness (they don't do a super job of fighting illness.) Therefore optimum conditions,feeding , stocking ( that includes amount of fish, type of tank, types of fish) water quality, (water changes, filtration, all types) and tank environment ( plants hiding spots, gravel) are a must.
i think everything i said all of you already know.
its just in my opinion you can never overstress these points and i think this post is a reminder of that.
Think about it fish are in a great medium (water) for bacterial and parasitic attacks. If its in the water they basically have no way of avoiding it. Though their defenses might not be super advanced they are specialized to prevent illness (they don't do a super job of fighting illness.) Therefore optimum conditions,feeding , stocking ( that includes amount of fish, type of tank, types of fish) water quality, (water changes, filtration, all types) and tank environment ( plants hiding spots, gravel) are a must.
i think everything i said all of you already know.
its just in my opinion you can never overstress these points and i think this post is a reminder of that.
Old fishermen never die, they just smell that way.
Rusty
Rusty
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Puffer Queen
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The main tank needs to be fallow (fishless) for at least 6 weeks. Leave the salinity in the main tank at current level. The parasites will die off in the main tank without a food source (fish). As far as treating the fish: A freshwater dip with methylene blue for 15 minutes before placing in hospital tank will dislodge some parasites but not all. In the hospital tank (bare bottom - no live rock but non porous decorations for hiding) you can treat with hyposalinity (SG 1.009 - 1.010) for 4 weeks. Really need a refractometer for this treatment to work. Top off for evaporation is a must!. If you don't use hyposalinity, then copper treatment for at least 2 weeks. I prefer cupramine. Must follow directions and use proper test kit. Must monitor water parameters daily no matter what treatment you use as pH can drop with either as well as other parameters can rise (ammonia, nitrite, etc).
Best of luck.
Best of luck.
Kelly
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Pufferpunk
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Sure!
Glad to be of help.
That was the condensed version - If you want a longer explanation:
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic31173-10-1.aspx
Glad to be of help.
That was the condensed version - If you want a longer explanation:
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic31173-10-1.aspx
Kelly
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32976
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
-
Puffer Queen
- Mentor
- Posts: 386
- Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 10:35 am
- Location: Louisville, KY
- Contact:
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32976
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact: