Okay, this is not working. I think he is very unhappy to in the small tank and away from all the other fish. He is swimming up and down the sides for 15 hours now and the growth is getting worse, because he is bumping it on things. The more I look at it, I think it may be an injury, but it was just not healing at all.
Should I move him back into the big tank and treat that tank with Melafix and Pimafix? There is one other GSP and one knight goby in the big tank.
If he tears his whole Caudal fin off, can he survive without it?
Please help...GSP with fluffy growth on bottom fin
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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kristine888
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:36 am
- Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
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A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
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burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
I already mentioned to treat the main tank w/those products. It will not harm your filtration or other fish. It will only stress out the injured fish by moving it.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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kristine888
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:36 am
- Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Seems to be worse and not eating.
I moved my puffer back to the large tank with his tank mates. He is much happier here and is now swimming around again and has a white belly.
The thing on his fin seems to be tearing even more and I'm not sure what to do. I feel so badly for him.
I have since discovered that something else was going on in my tank at the same time and may be related? I had 3 Mollies in with my 2 Puffers and 1 Knight Goby. I thought one of the Puffers had eaten a Mollie [he was missing for a week]. I decided to bring them to the LFS so the other 2 wouldn't get eaten. While netting them, I moved a rock and the missing Mollie swam out in very bad shape. He had a serious illness. His whole body looked like it was disintegrating and his scales were kinda puffy. After some calls I euthanized him [it was very hard] and then took the other 2 into the store where they put them into quarantine.
I'm not sure if it is related to what's going on with my Puffer. I've had the whole tank medicated with Melfix and Pimafix for 2 days now. Since medicating the tank none of my 3 remaining fish will eat anything. I have tried all of their favorites.
The only other thing I did was to raise the Ph to 8.0...it was a little low.
So between all of these events...I don't really know what to do. I'm planning to continue with the tank meds for 5 more days and check their progress. I am now wondering if the Mollie infected them with something else.
Also, if they don't eat because of the meds in the water will they be okay for the remaining 5 days?
I have attached a better picture of his fin damage/disease. He finally stayed out for the flash.
I appreciate all of your advice.
The thing on his fin seems to be tearing even more and I'm not sure what to do. I feel so badly for him.
I have since discovered that something else was going on in my tank at the same time and may be related? I had 3 Mollies in with my 2 Puffers and 1 Knight Goby. I thought one of the Puffers had eaten a Mollie [he was missing for a week]. I decided to bring them to the LFS so the other 2 wouldn't get eaten. While netting them, I moved a rock and the missing Mollie swam out in very bad shape. He had a serious illness. His whole body looked like it was disintegrating and his scales were kinda puffy. After some calls I euthanized him [it was very hard] and then took the other 2 into the store where they put them into quarantine.
I'm not sure if it is related to what's going on with my Puffer. I've had the whole tank medicated with Melfix and Pimafix for 2 days now. Since medicating the tank none of my 3 remaining fish will eat anything. I have tried all of their favorites.
The only other thing I did was to raise the Ph to 8.0...it was a little low.
So between all of these events...I don't really know what to do. I'm planning to continue with the tank meds for 5 more days and check their progress. I am now wondering if the Mollie infected them with something else.
Also, if they don't eat because of the meds in the water will they be okay for the remaining 5 days?
I have attached a better picture of his fin damage/disease. He finally stayed out for the flash.
I appreciate all of your advice.
2 GSPs
-
Phaedrus
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1402
- Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 8:34 pm
- Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
- Contact:
What other chemicals do you use in that tank?
How do you raise the pH?
They will eventually eat. They may just be stressed out from you mucking about in the tank, and turned off by the added "flavour" of the melafix and pimafix. They will be fine for several days without food. I bet that sooner than later they will cave in to hunger and have a snack.
How do you raise the pH?
They will eventually eat. They may just be stressed out from you mucking about in the tank, and turned off by the added "flavour" of the melafix and pimafix. They will be fine for several days without food. I bet that sooner than later they will cave in to hunger and have a snack.
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kristine888
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:36 am
- Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Okay, today is Friday and they haven't eaten since Monday when I medicated the tank. It's strange. When I put food into the tank the puffer with the injury won't eat and then he guards the other puffer and won't let him eat either. He's not aggresive, he just guides the other puffer away from the food over and over. They've never done this before. What's up with that??
To answer your questions...
I don't normally use any chemicals in the tank other than water conditioner and marine salt.
I used a product called Proper PH 8.2 by [Aquarium Pharmaceuticals] to raise the pH. It was at 7.6 and went up to 8.0 with this product *then* after a small water change yesterday is now back at 7.6. We moved 7 months ago and the water is different here. I've never had to regulate the pH...our old tap water was perfect. What are some ways to raise and maintain the pH at 8.0?
To answer your questions...
I don't normally use any chemicals in the tank other than water conditioner and marine salt.
I used a product called Proper PH 8.2 by [Aquarium Pharmaceuticals] to raise the pH. It was at 7.6 and went up to 8.0 with this product *then* after a small water change yesterday is now back at 7.6. We moved 7 months ago and the water is different here. I've never had to regulate the pH...our old tap water was perfect. What are some ways to raise and maintain the pH at 8.0?
2 GSPs
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Changing the substrate to crushed coral or aragonite, will keep the pH around a steady 8. Emphasis on the word "steady", because fluctuating pH is way worse that the wrong one.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
Phaedrus
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1402
- Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 8:34 pm
- Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
- Contact:
I'd rather have a steady 7.6 than a fluctuating 7.6 to 8.
8 is a target, but not absolutely necessary. Steady pH is the most important thing provided it isn't way off in either direction.
Getting an aragonite or crushed coral substrate is the best way to go about maintaining a proper ph. If you don't want to change your substrate, you can always just keep a bag of it in your filter.
8 is a target, but not absolutely necessary. Steady pH is the most important thing provided it isn't way off in either direction.
Getting an aragonite or crushed coral substrate is the best way to go about maintaining a proper ph. If you don't want to change your substrate, you can always just keep a bag of it in your filter.
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
-
kristine888
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:36 am
- Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Excellent, thanks! I picked up some aragonite and will add a small amount to the substrate and put a bag into the filter as well.
Good news! They're eating. Mind you they'll only eat the deluxe seafood blend from the fish market.
The injury may be a bit less pink, but there is definitely a detachment along the base of the fin. I just hope it reattaches as it heals.
Good news! They're eating. Mind you they'll only eat the deluxe seafood blend from the fish market.
The injury may be a bit less pink, but there is definitely a detachment along the base of the fin. I just hope it reattaches as it heals.
2 GSPs
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YBeNormal
- Former Staff Member
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- Location: Northern Virginia
- Contact:
I've seen fish with very ragged fins, fins almost totally eaten away by fin rot and fish with gaping wounds fully heal with good care and feeding. In fact, my GSPs cut themselves on the LR in my tank quite often and heal just fine with no meds at all. Keep the tank clean, treat with M-fix and P-fix and feed a high-quality diet and there is a good chance that all will work out fine.
--Bob