New Fahaka Sick
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
New Fahaka Sick
I got it with some sort of ich? Some sort of white spots. So I followed the ich thread here, I believe he is doing ok.
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: When it comes to puffers, Google is not your best friend
Is it on his fins? Could just be his spines.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: When it comes to puffers, Google is not your best friend
There was a white spot on his side. He is gone already!Pufferpunk wrote:Is it on his fins? Could just be his spines.
I told LFS about it and he is willing to replace it since I got the puffer sick. I hope I can make this work. Thanks to this forum, I feel I'm more prepared for this puffy.-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32976
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: When it comes to puffers, Google is not your best friend
Awww... so sorry. My thinking isn't that ich killed him though, unless he was totally infested with it.
My thinking isn't that ich killed him though, unless he was totally infested with it.You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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scpion
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 672
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 10:57 am
- My Puffers: 23in Mbu, donated to SEA Aquarium
4in Fahaka 150g - Location (country): singapore
Re: When it comes to puffers, Google is not your best friend
If it's really ich, Pls do not put the new one in the same tank....yet.PapaPUFF wrote:There was a white spot on his side. He is gone already!Pufferpunk wrote:Is it on his fins? Could just be his spines.
I am not a Troll, I am just pissed..!
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32976
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: New Fahaka Sick
Thanks to whoever split this. 
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: New Fahaka Sick
I just got my new puffer for free. It's with the same batch as my previous puffer. I really checked it out before picking it up. It's abit bigger than my previous one. This is more like 4" where as my previous puffer is just 3" to 3.5". It also got nice coloration.
Now here is the thing. I put him in my cycled 120 gal existing tank with 3 Datnoides. (This won't be his tank since its a black tank covered with black stickers from sides and bottom for my asian aro before I sold him. I already ordered another 120 gal tank since I've learned from here that this dude needs stuffs to explore and needs a solo tank.) Now here's the question.. after 5mins of putting him in the tank. His color became dull and got white circles on his body. I haven't tested the water yet since it's holy week and there is no LFS that is open for me to get API testers. I'm kinda suspecting could it be just a new tank syndrome? Reading some of the threads and here, I did a 30% water change. Thanks in advance!
Now here is the thing. I put him in my cycled 120 gal existing tank with 3 Datnoides. (This won't be his tank since its a black tank covered with black stickers from sides and bottom for my asian aro before I sold him. I already ordered another 120 gal tank since I've learned from here that this dude needs stuffs to explore and needs a solo tank.) Now here's the question.. after 5mins of putting him in the tank. His color became dull and got white circles on his body. I haven't tested the water yet since it's holy week and there is no LFS that is open for me to get API testers. I'm kinda suspecting could it be just a new tank syndrome? Reading some of the threads and here, I did a 30% water change. Thanks in advance!
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scpion
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 672
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 10:57 am
- My Puffers: 23in Mbu, donated to SEA Aquarium
4in Fahaka 150g - Location (country): singapore
Re: New Fahaka Sick
Yeah. Give him a while to adjust to the new environment. Place some deco in there for hiding. The white rings could just be bite marks. Nothing to worry about. Your ex fahaka died in this same tank?
I am not a Troll, I am just pissed..!
Re: New Fahaka Sick
There is a small cave like driftwood there, but he barely go there. He stayed more in the left side of the tank. This is not the same tank. My ex fahaka died in the hospital tank while I was treating ick. Yea I know they are notorious killers. So far there is no aggression, I'm currently cycling the 30 gal tank, once it cycled I'll put the datnoids in their first, while waiting for fahaka's tank.scpion wrote:Yeah. Give him a while to adjust to the new environment. Place some deco in there for hiding. The white rings could just be bite marks. Nothing to worry about. Your ex fahaka died in this same tank?
Hmm.. it could be bite marks since those tiger dats are pestering him for the first 5mins or so when he first dive in the tank, then they just went to their own abode. Little they know that once Mr. Fahaka fight backs it would be their end. I more like thinking that those white rings and pale colorization is caused by stress. Similar with the dats that turns pale or darkens and loses their stripes when stressed out or when they are not stable.
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scpion
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 672
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 10:57 am
- My Puffers: 23in Mbu, donated to SEA Aquarium
4in Fahaka 150g - Location (country): singapore
Re: New Fahaka Sick
The bite marks are most likely by his batch of buddies the period of time they were housed/shipped together. Typical ring marks, shows up only under certain circumstances.
I am not a Troll, I am just pissed..!
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32976
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: New Fahaka Sick
I'd expect a massacre of those dats, overnight.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: New Fahaka Sick
I'd let nature take its course just for a day. Then I'll put them dats in the 30gal tank I'm cycling.
Is it normal for the fahaka to have pale skin when they are new to the tank? Good thing now is that when he first got in the tank he just stayed on the left side of the tank all the time. Now he is exploring all sides of the tank.
Is it normal for the fahaka to have pale skin when they are new to the tank? Good thing now is that when he first got in the tank he just stayed on the left side of the tank all the time. Now he is exploring all sides of the tank.
Re: New Fahaka Sick
I can see improvement on my fahaka's colorization. He is also moving around the tank now, so I guess what he encounter before are just normal signs of being stressed and or uncomfortable.