now, i have had puffers with ip and have never had success treating them, but I have only ever treated the water. His water is treated according to instructions but I'd like to treat his food as well... he barely nibbles at frozen krill so I picked up some blooodworms which puffers in the past have gone nuts over, which he eats very passively but eventually finishes. How can I go about treating his food with powdered praziquantel? right now I have a block of frozen bloodworms soaking/thawing in a bowl of his treated water with a tiny bit of extra powder thrown in. Help anyone?
fahaka with internal parasites
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Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
fahaka with internal parasites
hello, to begin with I have experience with dwarf puffers, fig 8's and saltwater gsp's but haven't had a puffer in a while. I was in the pet store the other day and saw a small (about 2") fahaka puffer. He was very thin and from the description by the lfs associate it was apparent he has internal parasites... eating and then going right back to the emaciated look right away, which the lfs associated insisted was normal
. They had had him for a couple of months and had just bumped his price down to $29.99, so I snagged him at least to treat him. He's alone in a cycled 10 gallon right now and I have a brand of powdered praziquantel called "fish tapes".
now, i have had puffers with ip and have never had success treating them, but I have only ever treated the water. His water is treated according to instructions but I'd like to treat his food as well... he barely nibbles at frozen krill so I picked up some blooodworms which puffers in the past have gone nuts over, which he eats very passively but eventually finishes. How can I go about treating his food with powdered praziquantel? right now I have a block of frozen bloodworms soaking/thawing in a bowl of his treated water with a tiny bit of extra powder thrown in. Help anyone?
now, i have had puffers with ip and have never had success treating them, but I have only ever treated the water. His water is treated according to instructions but I'd like to treat his food as well... he barely nibbles at frozen krill so I picked up some blooodworms which puffers in the past have gone nuts over, which he eats very passively but eventually finishes. How can I go about treating his food with powdered praziquantel? right now I have a block of frozen bloodworms soaking/thawing in a bowl of his treated water with a tiny bit of extra powder thrown in. Help anyone?
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Re: fahaka with internal parasites
It's a waste of time treating the water, you need to treat the food. Krill has been linked to lockjaw so is best avoided.
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
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Re: fahaka with internal parasites
Perfect! Add garlic juice to the mix, to enhance his appetite. My fahaka looked exactly the same, when I bought him.I have a block of frozen bloodworms soaking/thawing in a bowl of his treated water with a tiny bit of extra powder thrown in.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: fahaka with internal parasites
Thanks guys! Believe he's all clear, he's so fat and happy now! I'll keep dosing for a little while to make sure it's all taken care of.