Well I plan on getting 2 - F8 for my 40Gal.
However I have some questions.
Tap water is 1.000 SG and pH 7.0
So I need to add marine salt to get it up to 1.003 - 1.008 but I can't find anywhere that says approximately how much salt this would require.
Does that mean a few tablespoons or does that mean a few cups? (I know you have to disolve and drip into aquarium)
Also how to I get my pH up to 7.8 - 8.2? I already have "regular" sand in my tank so I'd prefer not to have to buy aragonite but what other ways are there to change your pH. I'm assuming there is some tablets or a liquid that you could put in there? Or does adding the salt do this for you?
Sorry if these are stupid questions?
Water Parameters (SG and pH)
- Phaedrus
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1402
- Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 8:34 pm
- Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
- Contact:
This is a question that I see a lot, and was a problem I had at first too. The salt packaging only has information on how to attain marine salinity based on pounds of salt per gallon, etc. On top of that every salt mix is slightly different, so 1 cup of one brand won't result in the same SG as the same amount of another brand. Add to this the fact that you don't want to raise the SG by more than 0.002 per week, and it can be pretty confounding.
Trial and error with a hydrometer or refractometer is the only real way to know for sure how much to use, but this can be time consuming and you can always make mistakes.
I find the easiest and most straight forward way to raise salinity in a new tank with fish in it is to use the tablespoon method (pattent pending).
In your case, you should first find out what the water conditions are like for the F8s at the fish store. You'll want to match their conditions as much as you can at first, and then adjust slowly afterwards.
Drip acclimitization is only really needed when you are adding a new fish to an established tank of a different salinity. For example, if you wanted to add F8s that are in FW at the LFS to an established BW tank.
Since you are starting with FW, and the F8s are most likely in FW at the store, you can just use the tablespoon method to raise the salinity slowly. If the LFS already keeps them in BW, you'll have to use a bit more trial and error, but basically follow the same instructions.
Basically jsut add 1 tablespoon of marine mix to your replacement water you use when doing a 50% water change. Increase the ammount of salt you use by 1 tablespoon each week. (depending on the water volume you may want to increase every other week).
After each change measure your SG with your hydrometer. Once you get to your target, simply use the same ammount of salt next week. Keep checking your SG weekly. If you notice it creeping up, use a little less salt for a while, or top off with fresh water.
If the fish are kept in brackish at the store, just match the SG at home first. Simply add 1 tablestoon of salt (dissolved in water) and check your SG (let it mix for a while first). Keep adding 1 more at a time until you are at your target.
As for pH. Using aragonite is your best bet. Additives only work in the short term. The marine mix will help buffer as well, but only in the short term as well.
Aragonite is definately a good idea to keep the ph from crashing over the long term.
sorry for the essay ;P
Trial and error with a hydrometer or refractometer is the only real way to know for sure how much to use, but this can be time consuming and you can always make mistakes.
I find the easiest and most straight forward way to raise salinity in a new tank with fish in it is to use the tablespoon method (pattent pending).
In your case, you should first find out what the water conditions are like for the F8s at the fish store. You'll want to match their conditions as much as you can at first, and then adjust slowly afterwards.
Drip acclimitization is only really needed when you are adding a new fish to an established tank of a different salinity. For example, if you wanted to add F8s that are in FW at the LFS to an established BW tank.
Since you are starting with FW, and the F8s are most likely in FW at the store, you can just use the tablespoon method to raise the salinity slowly. If the LFS already keeps them in BW, you'll have to use a bit more trial and error, but basically follow the same instructions.
Basically jsut add 1 tablespoon of marine mix to your replacement water you use when doing a 50% water change. Increase the ammount of salt you use by 1 tablespoon each week. (depending on the water volume you may want to increase every other week).
After each change measure your SG with your hydrometer. Once you get to your target, simply use the same ammount of salt next week. Keep checking your SG weekly. If you notice it creeping up, use a little less salt for a while, or top off with fresh water.
If the fish are kept in brackish at the store, just match the SG at home first. Simply add 1 tablestoon of salt (dissolved in water) and check your SG (let it mix for a while first). Keep adding 1 more at a time until you are at your target.
As for pH. Using aragonite is your best bet. Additives only work in the short term. The marine mix will help buffer as well, but only in the short term as well.
Aragonite is definately a good idea to keep the ph from crashing over the long term.
sorry for the essay ;P
Don't be sorry - that was awesome!
So basically you're saying I should completely replace my sand with the aragonite?
Thanks for the info on the salt.
One more question: The filter media I had been using is sponge, carbon, amonia rid stuff
With a brackish setup do I still use all the same stuff or should I be using a different setup?
Thanks,
So basically you're saying I should completely replace my sand with the aragonite?
Thanks for the info on the salt.
One more question: The filter media I had been using is sponge, carbon, amonia rid stuff
With a brackish setup do I still use all the same stuff or should I be using a different setup?
Thanks,
- Phaedrus
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1402
- Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 8:34 pm
- Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
- Contact:
Replacing the sand with aragonite is probably the best option. If the tank is empty, you can replace the whole sand bed in one go.
If the tank is new you'll have to cycle it as well. The library has an excelent article on fishless cycling. If it's established already, you'll have to keep it "fed". if it's been empty for a long time, you'll have to recycle it before adding fish.
You may want to add a canister filter to help handle the extra load and provide some extra current. Eheim is a good brand, if a bit expensive. Fluval is a bit cheaper, but still very good.
If the tank is new you'll have to cycle it as well. The library has an excelent article on fishless cycling. If it's established already, you'll have to keep it "fed". if it's been empty for a long time, you'll have to recycle it before adding fish.
You may want to add a canister filter to help handle the extra load and provide some extra current. Eheim is a good brand, if a bit expensive. Fluval is a bit cheaper, but still very good.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Don't use the ammonia removing resin. If the tank is cycled you won't need it & if you're trying to cycle it (or instant cycle w/Bio-Spira) it will prevent cycling. You don't need the carbon either. I use sponge, filter floss & BioMax.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"

