Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
lifemisled
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 12:25 pm
- Location (country): US
Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
Good Afternoon All,
Let me begin by saying Happy Easter. I'm a new member to this board and new to the world of Puffer Fish. I was captivated by their mannerisms and many of the online videos and had to purchase myself a Fahaka. I went with the Fahaka because it was not a brackish water fish. That being said, let me break down to where we are today.
About a week ago I purchased a 1 1/2" Fahaka. I had him in a communal cichlid aquarium at a size of 55 gallons. Having done a significant more amount of research, I figured I would rather upgrade his enclosure sooner than later and I noticed he was a bit nippy at the fins (as described online). Three days after purchase I bought a 135 gallon aquarium. I'm using a sand substrate that was thoroughly cleaned. I have rock caves in opposing corners to allow a place to hide with the vast majority being clear swim space. My filtration is certainly over kill. I have a Marineland 350 canister and four HOB 350's. That's 1750 gallons per hour, certainly above most advised cycles. I also have four 18" air stone bars connected to two high powered air pumps, so the oxygen exchange should be great for its size. I originally kept the temperature around 78 degrees. Noting inactivity, I turned it up to 80, where it currently is now. Ammonia/Nitrates tested zero. My PH is just over 6.
I've tried feeding him frozen blood worms, frozen krill, ghost shrimp, and feeder fish. Additionally, I tried crab meat, scallions, and lobster leg meat from the market. No go. In the cichlid tank he was eating bloodworms. Since the change, he will not eat. He either spends his time hiding in the corner rock caves or buries himself in the sand. He will occasionally swim from end-to-end but appears quite lethargic.
I would truly appreciate any feedback. Maybe I'm rushing to judgement here and not allowing enough time for him to adjust? He's been in the new tank alone since Friday. I am purchasing live snails and a crab this afternoon to test but I'm running out of ideas and becoming quite concerned.
Thank you all for listening and I look forward to hearing some seasoned feedback from more experienced owners.
Let me begin by saying Happy Easter. I'm a new member to this board and new to the world of Puffer Fish. I was captivated by their mannerisms and many of the online videos and had to purchase myself a Fahaka. I went with the Fahaka because it was not a brackish water fish. That being said, let me break down to where we are today.
About a week ago I purchased a 1 1/2" Fahaka. I had him in a communal cichlid aquarium at a size of 55 gallons. Having done a significant more amount of research, I figured I would rather upgrade his enclosure sooner than later and I noticed he was a bit nippy at the fins (as described online). Three days after purchase I bought a 135 gallon aquarium. I'm using a sand substrate that was thoroughly cleaned. I have rock caves in opposing corners to allow a place to hide with the vast majority being clear swim space. My filtration is certainly over kill. I have a Marineland 350 canister and four HOB 350's. That's 1750 gallons per hour, certainly above most advised cycles. I also have four 18" air stone bars connected to two high powered air pumps, so the oxygen exchange should be great for its size. I originally kept the temperature around 78 degrees. Noting inactivity, I turned it up to 80, where it currently is now. Ammonia/Nitrates tested zero. My PH is just over 6.
I've tried feeding him frozen blood worms, frozen krill, ghost shrimp, and feeder fish. Additionally, I tried crab meat, scallions, and lobster leg meat from the market. No go. In the cichlid tank he was eating bloodworms. Since the change, he will not eat. He either spends his time hiding in the corner rock caves or buries himself in the sand. He will occasionally swim from end-to-end but appears quite lethargic.
I would truly appreciate any feedback. Maybe I'm rushing to judgement here and not allowing enough time for him to adjust? He's been in the new tank alone since Friday. I am purchasing live snails and a crab this afternoon to test but I'm running out of ideas and becoming quite concerned.
Thank you all for listening and I look forward to hearing some seasoned feedback from more experienced owners.
- Pufferpunk
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
![welcome [welcome]](./images/smilies/welcome.gif)
I wouldn't worry. You'd think they'd be happier in such a big tank but when I moved mine from a 55g to his 125g, he sulked & wouldn't eat for 2 weeks. Keep offering him live worms. Put them in a feeder cone, so they aren't all over the place. Try earthworms too.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- bertie 83
- Moderator
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Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
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Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
Yea he's probably just a bit upset with you for moving him, he will soon settle in
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
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Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
Is there plenty of decor to retreat to? It'll make him feel safe out in the open.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
lifemisled
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 12:25 pm
- Location (country): US
Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the replies, I appreciate them. I don't know if external links are allowed (?) but here's a quick video [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cs7mvg5ggXY] that shows my Puffer buried in the sand. It also gives a real brief glimpse at the overall set-up including the glued rock caves in each corner. Should I include more hiding places? I thought about including an empty flower pot, I like the looks of those. Currently, he spends most of his time in the caves "laying" on the sand bed. He will nip at a passing crab or shrimp or just relocate away from them but still refuses to eat. For now, I've pulled everything but a couple of snails.
It would seem the general consensus here is that I haven't given the Puffer enough time to adjust. How long before I hit the panic button here? Pufferpunk, two weeks?? Wow. That would really worry me but I'm the worry type. I'm used to my cichlids who all seem to eat right within minutes of acclimating!
Thanks, again guys.
Thanks for the replies, I appreciate them. I don't know if external links are allowed (?) but here's a quick video [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cs7mvg5ggXY] that shows my Puffer buried in the sand. It also gives a real brief glimpse at the overall set-up including the glued rock caves in each corner. Should I include more hiding places? I thought about including an empty flower pot, I like the looks of those. Currently, he spends most of his time in the caves "laying" on the sand bed. He will nip at a passing crab or shrimp or just relocate away from them but still refuses to eat. For now, I've pulled everything but a couple of snails.
It would seem the general consensus here is that I haven't given the Puffer enough time to adjust. How long before I hit the panic button here? Pufferpunk, two weeks?? Wow. That would really worry me but I'm the worry type. I'm used to my cichlids who all seem to eat right within minutes of acclimating!
Thanks, again guys.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
I only had to look at that vid for a second, to see the big problem there.
Here's my fahaka's tank:

Here's my fahaka's tank:

You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- sgtmyers88
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Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
Here is a couple of my aquariums:
If you can collect some flat slate or sandstone rocks from a local lake or river and boil them or even buy some dead rock and a few plastic plants from a LFS your puffer will be much happier.


If you can collect some flat slate or sandstone rocks from a local lake or river and boil them or even buy some dead rock and a few plastic plants from a LFS your puffer will be much happier.


WARNING: Puffers are mischievous little blimps with enchanting powers. You may not be content with having just one.
- suvattii2012
- Green Spotted Puffer
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Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
You can insert the videos with the [ youtube ][ /youtube ] tag and the code in the middle Cs7mvg5ggXY
You could do with aload of plants would look nice.
You could do with aload of plants would look nice.
Arrowhead
- sgtmyers88
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Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
@lifemisled
BTW I give you an A+++ on the filtration. I used to brag about being the "over-filtration king" but you have me beat.
BTW I give you an A+++ on the filtration. I used to brag about being the "over-filtration king" but you have me beat.
WARNING: Puffers are mischievous little blimps with enchanting powers. You may not be content with having just one.
-
lifemisled
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 12:25 pm
- Location (country): US
Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
Thanks for the input, guys. So you recommend a "busy" tank. Something more like my Cichlid tank?

Honestly, I went more minimal with the Puffer Fish set-up thinking he was only going to get bigger and big decor would be an obstruction. Is this stuff you phase out as they grow toward adulthood? I added a rather large pot and I will be adding more things tomorrow when I have time to thoroughly clean them. The member aquariums are great references, so thanks for chipping them in.
Thanks, sgtmyers88. Figure if I have the equipment, I should put it to use! I have a feeling with some of the messy foods he will hopefully eat, it's all for the best!
If anyone else has any additional suggestions, please do let me know. And, if there's any progress, I will let you know.
PS- I have noticed that my Puffer sees it reflection and gets very fired up about it. He will swim along the front and side glasses "mouthing" the side of the tank and often bursts of erratic speed. Is this normal for you guys? I know other fish see themselves but I worry with the extent of their territorial nature that he'll tire himself to death sooner or later or that his doppelganger is causing him to be so withdrawn. Unrelated?
Honestly, I went more minimal with the Puffer Fish set-up thinking he was only going to get bigger and big decor would be an obstruction. Is this stuff you phase out as they grow toward adulthood? I added a rather large pot and I will be adding more things tomorrow when I have time to thoroughly clean them. The member aquariums are great references, so thanks for chipping them in.
Thanks, sgtmyers88. Figure if I have the equipment, I should put it to use! I have a feeling with some of the messy foods he will hopefully eat, it's all for the best!
If anyone else has any additional suggestions, please do let me know. And, if there's any progress, I will let you know.
PS- I have noticed that my Puffer sees it reflection and gets very fired up about it. He will swim along the front and side glasses "mouthing" the side of the tank and often bursts of erratic speed. Is this normal for you guys? I know other fish see themselves but I worry with the extent of their territorial nature that he'll tire himself to death sooner or later or that his doppelganger is causing him to be so withdrawn. Unrelated?
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
RTR, a beloved Mentor here & resident scientist, says fish cannot see their reflection from the inside of their tank.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=30199
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=30199
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
lifemisled
- Puffer Fry
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- Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 12:25 pm
- Location (country): US
Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
@Pufferpunk thanks for the included link about reflections within the tank. I never would've guessed this. One less thing to worry about then!
- bertie 83
- Moderator
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- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
Much more decor is required
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
-
RTR
- Mentor
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Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
Puffers do seem to adjust better in what most folks would call "busy" tanks, with plenty of decor to swim around and explore for food items. My Fahakas did have less busy tanks when they matured, but one of the three was always fairly bashful.
The only thing you have to worry about long-term is the low pH which indicates low KH. Do you have a KH test (liquid based)? And is your pH test liquid based also? Low buffering can be risky with high bioload fish. As the fish grows and the bioload builds up, you may very like need to switch at least one of the filters over to a coarse aragonite medium to boost the buffering capacity of your water. I am not comfortable operating high bioload tanks without a safe pH & KH.
HTH
The only thing you have to worry about long-term is the low pH which indicates low KH. Do you have a KH test (liquid based)? And is your pH test liquid based also? Low buffering can be risky with high bioload fish. As the fish grows and the bioload builds up, you may very like need to switch at least one of the filters over to a coarse aragonite medium to boost the buffering capacity of your water. I am not comfortable operating high bioload tanks without a safe pH & KH.
HTH
Where's the fish? - Neptune
-
lifemisled
- Puffer Fry
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- Location (country): US
Re: Fahaka Puffer Inactive, Not Eating
@RTR- I had relatively simple liquid based test kits but also limited ones (tested PH and Ammonia Levels). I went out yesterday to a couple local fish stores and unfortunately they didn't have extensive liquid based test kits so I bought a couple packages of Tetra EasyStrips and a Mardel In-Tank LiveMeter that claims to live-test for ph, ammonia, and temperature (figured it might be a decent double check at least). Your concern was proven valid about the low pH and the corresponding low KH. Here are all the values I've tested for:
Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: 0
GH (Hardness): 75 (which is considered "soft" but according to test on the high end for soft)
Chlorine: 0
KH (Alkalinity): 0
pH: 6
Please let me know what you think of these values. From reading other posts, many of you recommend consistency more than screwing with the values using chemicals. However, I do have the chemicals necessary to raise the pH if needed. I know nothing about the ideal KH or GH for a Fahaka. I'd appreciate feedback. He's still completely inactive despite an array of food attempts both live and frozen.
I have also added a considerable amount more of decor.
Thank you all!
Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: 0
GH (Hardness): 75 (which is considered "soft" but according to test on the high end for soft)
Chlorine: 0
KH (Alkalinity): 0
pH: 6
Please let me know what you think of these values. From reading other posts, many of you recommend consistency more than screwing with the values using chemicals. However, I do have the chemicals necessary to raise the pH if needed. I know nothing about the ideal KH or GH for a Fahaka. I'd appreciate feedback. He's still completely inactive despite an array of food attempts both live and frozen.
I have also added a considerable amount more of decor.
Thank you all!