quarentine new f8
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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PufferBabe
- Dwarf Puffer
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Izze, Nemo, Calogero, Capone.
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fernando :)
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Bambina :) - Location (country): callifornia
- Contact:
quarentine new f8
i want to quarentine my new figure 8 and since im keeping him in freshwater then i cant use the heat and salt method. so could i use mardel coppersafe to kill off any ip and anything else he came with?
*The Oceans work is Never Done.
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scpion
- Fahaka Puffer
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4in Fahaka 150g - Location (country): singapore
Re: quarentine new f8
Basically when u quarantine a fish, u do nothing but observe for symtoms, which should show if any typically for a month. At most u treat for ip. Treat the food and NOT medicate whole tank. U should also try to aclimatise him to light brackish. What do u mean by u can't use salt and heat method since he's in FW?
I am not a Troll, I am just pissed..!
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PufferBabe
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 90
- Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:17 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: 4 green spotted puffers:
Izze, Nemo, Calogero, Capone.
1 f8:
fernando :)
1 Dp:
Bambina :) - Location (country): callifornia
- Contact:
Re: quarentine new f8
i mean hes in FW right now so how would i use that method without raising the s.g....
*The Oceans work is Never Done.
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scpion
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 672
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 10:57 am
- My Puffers: 23in Mbu, donated to SEA Aquarium
4in Fahaka 150g - Location (country): singapore
Re: quarentine new f8
The salt and heat method is meant for FW fish to combat ich. But I wouldn't use it unless they show signs of ich. Any form of treatment will subject them to stress. So now, just wait and see if anything pops up. Just treat for ip is enough.
I am not a Troll, I am just pissed..!
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RTR
- Mentor
- Posts: 6155
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 4:39 pm
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): East Coast, USA
Re: quarentine new f8
FYI: Coppersafe is a copper treatment for external parasites, not suitable for ips (internal/intestinal parasites).
I am not sure that it would be safe for puiffers or other scaleless fish.
I am not sure that it would be safe for puiffers or other scaleless fish.
Where's the fish? - Neptune
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: quarentine new f8
It is also extremely toxic to puffers! Only used as a last ditch effort to combat stubborn external parasites when other, safer methods have failed.
The amount of salt used to combat ich, will not measurably raise the SG of the tank.
The amount of salt used to combat ich, will not measurably raise the SG of the tank.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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bertie 83
- Moderator
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Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: quarentine new f8
If this fish does show signs of fw ich your easiest method to rid is to raise the sg slowly with increased temp til you reach the optimum sg. Is it not?
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: quarentine new f8
Yes, if it's a BW fish.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"