Weird Death
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Salmon
- Green Spotted Puffer
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Milo and Millie (DPs) - Location (country): United States of America
- Location: Ohio
Re: Weird Death
True, but I'm thinking he read his test wrong.
Those who say money can't buy happiness don't know where to find puffers.
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eieio
- Mbu Puffer
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The Congo Puffer:
"olivia"
and.......
The DP:
"cream puff"
RIP cream puff :-( - Location (country): U.S.A.
- Location: Prescott, Arizona
Re: Weird Death
if you thought he read his tests wrong, why would you back him up with your post as you did?Salmon wrote:True, but I'm thinking he read his test wrong.
.5 ppm nitrites is a terribly serious problem, and likely indicative of other serious problemsSalmon wrote:I was told nitrites were at .5 ppm and that may have had a slight effect towards the fish dying, but seeing as how thats not terribly high I don't see how that would have killed them, even though it is supposed to be at 0ppm.
rather than gloss over it, wouldn't it make more sense to get to the root of the problem before there is more suffering & death?
"I plan ahead. That way, I don't have to do anything right now!"
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
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Re: Weird Death
So many folks transpose nitrite & nitrate readings, when they post here.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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muffinman3560
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:00 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 30G
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Re: Weird Death
There Nitrite was at .5, so i did a water change of 80%. The next day i did another test and it was 0. Shouldn't there be nitrite in the water still? also i could of messed up the test by doing something wrong who knows.
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sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1894
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- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
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muffinman3560
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:00 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 30G
- Location (country): United States
Re: Weird Death
Yea we know, why did you post that?sevenyearnight wrote:Ammonia - 0
NitrIte NO2 - 0
NitrAte NO3 - Below 20
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32975
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Weird Death
She misunderstood your Q. It sounded like you thought there should always be nitrite. If you cut 0.5 in half, it may not be quite detectable by your test kit. The fact that you show no nitrate means the tank is not cycled.Shouldn't there be nitrite in the water still?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1894
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: Weird Death
If your tank has beneficial bacteria then you might have lowered the nitrite enough for the bacteria to take care of the rest. This would give you a 0 nitrite reading.
It is absurd to talk of one animal being higher than another. We consider those, when the cerebral structure/intellectual faculties most developed, as highest. A bee doubtless would when the instincts were.
Charles Darwin
Charles Darwin