Good Morning
1) Water: PH-7.6, High PH- 7.4, Ammonia- 0 ppm, Nitrite- 0 ppm, Nitrate 0 ppm (tested with AIP Master kit liquid)
PH- 7.2, Ammonia-0, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate 0, (tested with Ocean powder ) did not do Copper or Phosphate
2) 110 gallon- 1 danio, 2 Bala sharks 3.5", Fahaka6" , Chinise Alg2.5", Cat fish 4-5"
3) Not eating (when she does eat clams, prawns, oysters, crayfish, worms, tuna), Weekly water changes, nothing added to tank until 3 days ago added Salt 1 TBS per 5 Gal. first day and then Ich treatment 1 drop per 2 gal.
4) no changes have been made up until 3 days ago when I did a 50% water change, vacuumed the sand, and added salt, next day ich treatment (blue one)
5) tank set up for 2 maybe 3 years....... cycled with Convics (?? I think, that was a while ago and a few tanks ago??) This is a planted tank
I did a 50% water change that included vacuum the sand, added salt (aquarium salt) 24 hrs later first dose of Ich treatment 1 drop per 2 gal.
24 hrs later (to the min.) Ich treatment again.
she is getting up 3 maybe 5 times a day swimming around and then going back under the sand.... the sharks and Cat clearly have ich, so it only stands to reason that she does too. This morning the Sharks have pink in the tail (bad) and she looks like she may have a little pinkish to her fins (??? maybe) so my question:
1) what antibiotics do you guys use? and Doesage?
2) do you do another water change and loose the meds that are already in the tank?
I am not sure if ich or velvet, Pheona's skin is not looking so good, she is looking color and gaining dark spots (normal for her when she is hunting or mad at another fish for taking some of her food)????
The 1/2 dose of Ich treatment does not seem to be working on the sharks.... but they are only in there because you cannot catch them... ok maybe you guys can but I have not had any luck..... do I need to try to remove them and put them in a full strength med tank?
lets not start out with the fact that this tank is over stocked, or that I should not have this with that... Pheona and Shrek are both Fahaka's that are in grow tanks 100 gal. and their real home is waiting for them 240 gal divided.
Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
5 gal Snail tank
17 gal dwarf puffer tank (new baby Fahaka)
45 gal hex unused
55 gal dwarf cichlids
90 gal unused
110 gal Fahaka Puffer
240 gal getting ready to put it up
17 gal dwarf puffer tank (new baby Fahaka)
45 gal hex unused
55 gal dwarf cichlids
90 gal unused
110 gal Fahaka Puffer
240 gal getting ready to put it up
-
bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
If you are treating for ich add heat and salt nothing else. This treatment is prob stressing her a bit. Give it time she will come round.
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
-
bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
I don't think the catfish will like this though so I would remove and treat separately
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
-
sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1894
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
Please follow this heat and salt treatment, it's the safest treatment, it's slightly different and much safer than what is posted online:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28113&p=305482&hili ... lt#p305482
Good luck, keep us posted.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28113&p=305482&hili ... lt#p305482
Good luck, keep us posted.
-
sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1894
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
That blue medication can kill your puffer, please do a masssive water change and add carbon to remove totally.
Puffers cannot be medicated with harsh chemicals, it can kill them.
Puffers cannot be medicated with harsh chemicals, it can kill them.
-
bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
is it malachite?
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
it is Maracide as recommend by this forum???
5 gal Snail tank
17 gal dwarf puffer tank (new baby Fahaka)
45 gal hex unused
55 gal dwarf cichlids
90 gal unused
110 gal Fahaka Puffer
240 gal getting ready to put it up
17 gal dwarf puffer tank (new baby Fahaka)
45 gal hex unused
55 gal dwarf cichlids
90 gal unused
110 gal Fahaka Puffer
240 gal getting ready to put it up
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
Thank you for the link, I did read that already..... and just re-read it again
5 gal Snail tank
17 gal dwarf puffer tank (new baby Fahaka)
45 gal hex unused
55 gal dwarf cichlids
90 gal unused
110 gal Fahaka Puffer
240 gal getting ready to put it up
17 gal dwarf puffer tank (new baby Fahaka)
45 gal hex unused
55 gal dwarf cichlids
90 gal unused
110 gal Fahaka Puffer
240 gal getting ready to put it up
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
I am getting mixed idea's on how to treat this issue with Pheona,
should I do a water change or leave it for now?
should I do a water change or leave it for now?
5 gal Snail tank
17 gal dwarf puffer tank (new baby Fahaka)
45 gal hex unused
55 gal dwarf cichlids
90 gal unused
110 gal Fahaka Puffer
240 gal getting ready to put it up
17 gal dwarf puffer tank (new baby Fahaka)
45 gal hex unused
55 gal dwarf cichlids
90 gal unused
110 gal Fahaka Puffer
240 gal getting ready to put it up
-
bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
Yes many water changes with gravel vac and heat/salt. It worked perfect with my fahaka. There is a thread on rtr's heat salt method which is an awesome read. Can anyone add a link to this pleease i dont know how thanks
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
-
bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
You should be able to see it in view new posts i summoned it back lol
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
-
sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1894
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
bertie I already posted the link. If you leave that blue medication in the tank, it could kill your puffer, so definitely do a water change, and add carbon to remove the remaining.
-
sevenyearnight
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1894
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:41 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: T. nigroviridis
Balki Bartokomous - Location (country): USA
- Location: South Carolina
-
bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
Sorry i missed that bit lol. A big waterchange and carbon will rid the medication as stated by seven. Then using the said method you will soon have a well puffer again
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Sick Fahaka (Pheona)
OK the water change is done..... 50% change, carbon going back in next......
raising the heat again......
1 of the sharks died the cat is back swimming again and he ate a slice of shrimp that I was giving to pheona.....
she is still laying down
raising the heat again......
1 of the sharks died the cat is back swimming again and he ate a slice of shrimp that I was giving to pheona.....
she is still laying down
5 gal Snail tank
17 gal dwarf puffer tank (new baby Fahaka)
45 gal hex unused
55 gal dwarf cichlids
90 gal unused
110 gal Fahaka Puffer
240 gal getting ready to put it up
17 gal dwarf puffer tank (new baby Fahaka)
45 gal hex unused
55 gal dwarf cichlids
90 gal unused
110 gal Fahaka Puffer
240 gal getting ready to put it up