Not again...
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- Phaedrus
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1402
- Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 8:34 pm
- Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
- Contact:
The damage looks pretty bad. The pictures are great, too bad they aren't taken under happier circumstances.
What kind of puffer is that btw? I'm still not the best at identifying them on sight yet.
Can you give us a bit of history about the injury?
Has he had it since you got him?
Has it improved or worsened at all?
What, if anything, have you tried to treat it in the past?
Are you using anything currently to treat it?
In general, good water quality, healthy diet, melafix, pimafix, and a bit of aquarium salt if he's in FW.
I don't know what, if any, other medication would be appropriate.
Hope he improves.
What kind of puffer is that btw? I'm still not the best at identifying them on sight yet.
Can you give us a bit of history about the injury?
Has he had it since you got him?
Has it improved or worsened at all?
What, if anything, have you tried to treat it in the past?
Are you using anything currently to treat it?
In general, good water quality, healthy diet, melafix, pimafix, and a bit of aquarium salt if he's in FW.
I don't know what, if any, other medication would be appropriate.
Hope he improves.
- BubblePUffer
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 1:03 am
- Location: Edmonton, AB. Ca
-
Jager
well in this case if you dont do something that (what looks like a bad bite) will probably result in the loss of the fin entirely.
its becoming infected in the actaul rays of the fin itself,
as for the puncturing, all your doing is relieving the pressure and cleaning it out. your not reopening the puffers inner layer of skin, just the outer think a blister or wart or large ingrown infection on a human, its very simple. pa left out two things i suggested as well, to use an antibiotic and formulin to ensure that the fish stays infection free while healing.
its becoming infected in the actaul rays of the fin itself,
as for the puncturing, all your doing is relieving the pressure and cleaning it out. your not reopening the puffers inner layer of skin, just the outer think a blister or wart or large ingrown infection on a human, its very simple. pa left out two things i suggested as well, to use an antibiotic and formulin to ensure that the fish stays infection free while healing.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
I don't see a pus bubble but my eyes aren't what they used to be... I'd definately use stronger antibiotics that the "fix" team, but would include them in the mix. Have Bio-Spira on hand to repair the damaged biological filtration when done w/meds, unless you have an empty tank for QT.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Other than a differing species and the fin, that looks very much how my T turgidus is looking atm.
There is another at the shop near me but its in rather sad shape and the head ofthe fish told me to wait and call on tuesday to see if he's improving, he didnt want to sell him until he had an idea what was wrong or had it treated.
I'm very sorry to hear of your loss. Loosing a puffer always seems to be worse that loosing anything else, but i grieve for everything, even feeders at times.
Once again i'm sorry to hear about that.
jasonn
There is another at the shop near me but its in rather sad shape and the head ofthe fish told me to wait and call on tuesday to see if he's improving, he didnt want to sell him until he had an idea what was wrong or had it treated.
I'm very sorry to hear of your loss. Loosing a puffer always seems to be worse that loosing anything else, but i grieve for everything, even feeders at times.
Once again i'm sorry to hear about that.
jasonn
Sorry to hear it PA.
It looked to me like some sort of fin rot, did we ascertain what it was?
IME, fungal infections/bacteria seem to prey on sickly/stressed fish, so probably would not affect the shrimp. I would be inclined to treat/huge water change as Guppies are also notoriously hardy to such...
...just my opinion!
It looked to me like some sort of fin rot, did we ascertain what it was?
IME, fungal infections/bacteria seem to prey on sickly/stressed fish, so probably would not affect the shrimp. I would be inclined to treat/huge water change as Guppies are also notoriously hardy to such...
...just my opinion!
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:

