Best treatment for internal parasites...
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
wonkadog
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 3:39 pm
- Location (country): USA
- Location: Ames, IA
Best treatment for internal parasites...
Hi everyone,
I read the stickies above about parasites but couldn't really pull out what the best medication would be for treating internal ones. My GSP has been hanging out at the top of the tank, still eating from time to time but looking like he's just dangling at the surface rather than swimming around on his own. He's not too skinny or anything but definitely is not acting right. The nitrites are 0, ammonia is 0, and nitrates are around 20. Any suggestions?? Also notice the flicking action from time to time...Thanks!!!
Sorry, forgot to add that the salinity is around 1.012 and the puffer is about 2.5" long.
I read the stickies above about parasites but couldn't really pull out what the best medication would be for treating internal ones. My GSP has been hanging out at the top of the tank, still eating from time to time but looking like he's just dangling at the surface rather than swimming around on his own. He's not too skinny or anything but definitely is not acting right. The nitrites are 0, ammonia is 0, and nitrates are around 20. Any suggestions?? Also notice the flicking action from time to time...Thanks!!!
Sorry, forgot to add that the salinity is around 1.012 and the puffer is about 2.5" long.
- Pufferpunk
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wonkadog
- Puffer Fry
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well
I'll admit my water change schedule is 50% every 3 weeks. Do you guys think that the nitrates are the problem. My water has NO nitrates in it going into the tank but somehow I can't seem to keep them low. I have hang on the tank biowheel filters on both my tanks, should I take out the "filter cartridge" that's in them? Could that be producing nitrates?? I've lessened my substrate depth and taken out everything that could possibly be producing nitrates in the tank. The tank I'm talking about is a 29g but my larger saltwater tank that has the same nitrate problems is a 55g. Thanks for the replies guys.
- Phaedrus
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50% every 3 weeks isn't enough. You need to be vacuuming out the substrate much more frequently with water changes. If you can't manage 50% every week try 20% twice a week. It's not ideal, but it would be better than what you do now.
How often do you change the cartridges?If they are turning brown, it's time to change them. If you leave them in for too long the gunk on them starts to decompose and release more nitrates.
As for your saltwater tank, you may want to post in the saltwater forum about how to get a handle on nitrates.
How often do you change the cartridges?If they are turning brown, it's time to change them. If you leave them in for too long the gunk on them starts to decompose and release more nitrates.
As for your saltwater tank, you may want to post in the saltwater forum about how to get a handle on nitrates.
-
wonkadog
- Puffer Fry
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- Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 3:39 pm
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- Location: Ames, IA
thanks
So do you think my GSP's problem is that nitrates? He's still just mainly floating around towards the top of the tank. He still eats when I feed him, he just acts unenergetic the rest of the time. He's also not that skinny so that's why I'm wondering if it's not really internal parasites. Thanks again.
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YBeNormal
- Former Staff Member
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20 is not excessive for nitrates, but the goal is to be as close to zero as possible. The nitrates are coming from fish waste and possibly from leftover food in the tank. Removing both, keeping your filter media clean and performing weekly (or more often) partial water changes with gravel vacuum should reduce the nitrate levels and keep them in check.
Are you using liquid test kits or test strips? Test strips are notoriously inaccurate. Old liquid test kits can be inaccurate as well. You might want to have the LFS check your water and compare the results.
Is your puffer displaying any other unusual symptoms such as dark colors, spots or bumps? How is your tank decorated? What is the water temperature?
Are you using liquid test kits or test strips? Test strips are notoriously inaccurate. Old liquid test kits can be inaccurate as well. You might want to have the LFS check your water and compare the results.
Is your puffer displaying any other unusual symptoms such as dark colors, spots or bumps? How is your tank decorated? What is the water temperature?
--Bob
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wonkadog
- Puffer Fry
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ok
So now I can see a stringy trail of feces coming out of the GSP. This means internal parasites for sure, right?? I really need to know what medication to use because he has been like this for probably a week now. What med should I go get and how do I use it best?? Thanks so much everyone!!
- Pufferpunk
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- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32976
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
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wonkadog
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 3:39 pm
- Location (country): USA
- Location: Ames, IA
thanks for the advice
It would really make me feel better to treat for IP's. Can someone recommend a product that works good??
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32976
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:

