Figure 8s with Ick
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Sylar_92
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 10:01 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Figure 8 puffer and dwarf pea puffers
- Location (country): Canada
- Location: Toronto, Ontario
Figure 8s with Ick
Heys need some help, I went camping for a week and when i came home i saw that my F8s contracted ick. I believe it might have been caused the large peice of shrimp I put into their tank for them before I left for the week. I heard quick cure is very harmful to puffers so I raised the temp to 82 and started treating with aquarium salt and some gradual water changes. Do you guys think my F8s will be alright? The 2 F8s are currently in a brackish 50 gallon bowfront with some mollies.
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Dadof4
- Tech Team
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- My Puffers: 1 GSP (Microfiche) RIP, 1 Monotrete Turgidus (Leon) in a 30gal. 1 Monotrete suvattii in a 40 gal FW. 120 gallon BW with 3 juvenile Dragon Gobies (so cool). 55 gal with a 2" GSP named Hank. 180 gallon being set up for a Fahaka in the next few months!
- Location (country): United States
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Re: Figure 8s with Ick
No chemicals needed, they are very hard on puffers. Puffs don't have scales or gill covers and take up meds and chemicals more readily than other fish.
Please list your water parameters and the info listed in red above and most issues, including ich, can be attributed to those questions. In the mean time please read library/hospital/fwich/
and
library/puffers-in-focus/fig8/
I have a feeling your tank has crashed due to the uneaten shrimp breaking down and that is causing stress to the fish and in turn causing the Ich outbreak.
Please list your water parameters and the info listed in red above and most issues, including ich, can be attributed to those questions. In the mean time please read library/hospital/fwich/
and
library/puffers-in-focus/fig8/
I have a feeling your tank has crashed due to the uneaten shrimp breaking down and that is causing stress to the fish and in turn causing the Ich outbreak.
"Darwin swings...annnnnnd a miss. Boy Jim, Chuck's suffered at the plate tonight. He's 0 for 3 and I'm not sure he's recovered from that shoulder pull a few weeks ago. I'll bet the front office is re-thinking that contract."
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Sylar_92
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 10:01 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Figure 8 puffer and dwarf pea puffers
- Location (country): Canada
- Location: Toronto, Ontario
Re: Figure 8s with Ick
Nope, 100% brackish...but I cant reallly say 100% though since brackish isnt ever 100% lol. Back to being serious, I was also confused about how the ick/ich appear since the water does contain marine salt. I tested my water paramas and they were isanely out of line, which was probally due to the shrimp I left in their tank last week when I went camping. I did a fairly large water change and rinsed my tank equipment in a bleach/water solution and let it dry. I double rinsed with a vinegar solution just to be safe, and switched my 50gallon heater for a 70gallon heater to bump the temperature a few notches higher. Surprisingly my mollies did not contract the ick. As of the moment my puffers are in a 15gal hospital tank.RTR wrote:Are the F-8s in FW?
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
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Re: Figure 8s with Ick
Leave the puffers in their main tank. The mollies have it too, even if it doesn't show. Read the ich article linked to above. Keep doing large WC every other day, while cleaning the substrate & raise the temp. What SG is your tank at?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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Sylar_92
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 10:01 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Figure 8 puffer and dwarf pea puffers
- Location (country): Canada
- Location: Toronto, Ontario
Re: Figure 8s with Ick
I have Aragonite sand as my substrate which I've been wave siphoning every week to help clean it. As of yesterday the SP was sitting at 1.003, which is pretty bad. Im gradually raising the SP back to 1.005 to help the puffers stablize again. I've raised the temp to 85 and been closely monitoring them. The F8s are behaving and breathing normally and also eat regulary which is a relief. I keep everyone updated.Pufferpunk wrote:Leave the puffers in their main tank. The mollies have it too, even if it doesn't show. Read the ich article linked to above. Keep doing large WC every other day, while cleaning the substrate & raise the temp. What SG is your tank at?
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32980
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Figure 8s with Ick
You need to thoroughly stir that sand.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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RTR
- Mentor
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- Gender: Male
- Location (country): East Coast, USA
Re: Figure 8s with Ick
If the water is at 1.003 and has not been lower, I am nots ure this is FW Ich.
Where's the fish? - Neptune